Recent content by Shawn660

They need to come out with something for a bit of ice traction on big paddles, maybe something molded into the paddle with a little carbide nipple just to keep you straight. Especially with the winters we've been having, lots of snow sometimes, then warm, freeze and snow again. Seems like it's...

The stock track I mean. I don't particularly want to change the track if I don't have to. I guess I never really thought about swapping tracks then using screw ins.

There's not really enough lug for screw ins, not thick enough. That is honestly what I would have went with already. The issue is now and the end of March into April. Getting into some places we fish you end up with hills that are glare ice, loose snow on the lake with glare ice under it...

I was thinking 1 3/4 minimum, I'm 90% off trail. I love the 2" but there's not enough traction spring and fall. My old sled had a 1.6 with conventional studs and even that wasn't quite enough lug. I ended up going to a 2.5" and would put the 1.6 back on at the end of the year when we were...

Thinking about going with the STM protectors on a 2022 xtx se. I need studs, so I'm track shopping or cutting my 2" down... What's the tallest track I can go with and stud? I'm hearing the track will hit the protectors? I was going to do this last year but moved onto other projects then got...

Turbo smart here from TD, multi map 250-300hp, CAI under the hood and 3" TD super quiet muffler. You hear a lot of turbo noise, I love it.

2022 xtx SE, TD multi map up to 300HP. 2 inch paddle. I'm trying to figure out the best way to stud. I've been told the 1.86 triggers will work with the 2" especially with lug flex, I'm also willing to cut the track down a bit but don't really want to kill the off trail ability of the sled...

I just got an idea... Diy catch can but have a fuel line size hose routed down and out near the belly pan. If the fluid freezes it'll drain between rides when the sled is in the shop, air won't stop flowing as it'll still have the primary hose up high. I might be over thinking this... Haha

Exactly, and I'm not having much luck finding a mini catch can that would mount how I want it to. So just make one lol.

It would but wouldn't dump as much as the oil tank would. It would be after the rov, so should just be the accumulated gunk from the rov. Pull it say once a month and clean it out. Shouldn't be much accumulation.

I wouldn't say I'm rubber side up often but it tends to happen at least once a year, normally trying to get a sled unstuck. Issue is it normally happens far from home so would rather not loose engine oil I may not have to replace lol

Yeah you would be correct about the loop. My next idea is say a #16 hydraulic plug and cap, cap mounted to the clutch guard. Drill the plug out to hollow it, use a #6 bulkhead t, bulkhead to the plug, barb fittings for the rov tube. This would sit in the low spot and would be easy to drain...

That's what I'm seeing, been reading lots about it. Kinda torn on what to do lol. Wouldn't be hard to clean out that filter and dump whatever is in the hose also. I do only ride 5-600miles a year generally also. Sleds also don't normally sleep outside either. I've seen a lot of crank case vents...

My concern with deleting it is what happens when the sled ends up rubber side up? I was thinking about a t and some kind of catch can mounted to the clutch guard. I wanted to try to avoid deleting it but it's sounding more and more like I'll have to.

I ended up using the rov, hose came with the kit and I'll tuck it in under the cold air intake. It's just sitting there now but I'll tie it up. I see 2 nipples the same size on the cold air intake tube. Only 1 hose to put on tho? Any idea?