Recent content by yamahaddad

I have an XTX and I swapped in a Arctic Cat 141 skid. You have to use the skid out of a crossfire or swap in the longer center shock. This fixes the track tensioning issue in the nytro. There's a huge thread about it in the mountain section with all the measurements.

This is how I routed mine. Not sure if it's the best way but it seems like it should work but I haven't tested it yet. It is a tight fit. Drilled a hole in the bottom panel so any oil will drain out the bottom and not cover everything in oil. Also don't forget to plug the back of the airbox...

I swapped in a 141 float skid out of a crossfire. Its better in every way... it rides so much better, weighs 30lb less, and its way easier to work on.

You don't have to trim the rail tips as long as the stock (non-extrovert) drivers are used. I run a 20 tooth gear with this track and it pulls hard!

I have a used one for sale In the classified section. Came off 2012 phaser gt. Its in perfect condition. Pm me if your interested.

My brother was looking at a set of better boards for his phazer but I told him about them craking so he didn't get them. I know he would be all over a set of these if you make them ;)!

Iv been considering the star kit for my xtx also and I like the idea of a Fox float in the center. Will the float work with the stock setup or do you have to have the star kit? Also what is the length of the shock and what air pressure did you run? Love the mods ;)!

Im not sure of the gearing on the short tracks, but I put a BC on my XTX and Allen at Ulmer Racing told me to drop a tooth on the top gear. Stock was 21. Changed to 20 tooth and it seems to pull just as hard as stock but I did loose a little top end. Give him a call, he will hook you up. I plan...

I had the same thing happen to mine this season. I tried the load control relay but that didn't fix it. It ended up being corrosion in the connector going to the ignition key. Make sure to check all the electrical connections, they corrode like crazy... heres my post...

I was looking closer at the connector and the brown wire and red w/ yellow strip wires were pretty corroded. They are right next to each other and the corrosion was between the two. I took a flat screwdriver and jumped the pins between these two wires and the ignition turned on just like it was...

I checked the connection coming off the ignition switch and it has some corrosion in the back side of the plug. I'm going to try and remove the pins and clean everything up. The sled still has not turned on since I put the relays back in. Good call guys :Rockon:. I bet this will fix it.

Well, I pulled out the load control relay and let it sit just to see if it would turn on by itself, and it did... so then I pulled all the relays out and found the fan relay has a lot of corrosion on the terminals. I let it sit for a day with no relays and it didn't turn on. Now I just put...

Haha! I'm beginning to think it is! I have a few mods, but the engine is stock. The only electrical mod is ddm tuning HIDs. I'm going to switch the relays tomorrow as grizz suggested. we'll see...

Hey guys, heres a video of what its doing... Youtube I checked over the wiring and relays wiggling and tapping everything I could, but I couldn't pinpoint what is causing it. It seems random. I tried unplugging wires but nothing would stop it until I pull the main fuse. Hitting the kill...

I went with a 20T when I changed to the backcountry and 9 tooth avids last season. Only got to ride twice last winter but it felt awesome! It felt so much faster just because it actually hooked up on the trail. Oh and I have stock clutching with 14.5mm rollers.