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Buy it and weld in the grizz gussets in the summer. And a new front end is absolutely advisable, at least for off trail riding. ;)!

I have both. Wont say theres a big difference. At least not for my riding style. Personally i love the xtx gytr front clickers compared to the FOX/oem style shortie shocks. I would say go for the one that gives you the most bang for the bucks.

Both me and my riding buddies have had great luck with all balls bearings for 4 seasons now. I replace them every 4-5000 kms or so.

http://www.modshop.se/nyheter/skinz-con ... flat-black

Yes. A buddy of mine just ordered his kit. I should be able to test ride it next weekend. ;)!

Anyone tried the new Skinz 37" front end?

New narrower a-arms. Several different types to choose from. Mountaintech, skinz...

On the 08's its in front of the airbox, on his '10 i believe its supposed to be on one of the left bolts holding the steering frame to the subframe. But really it should not matter, as long as its a good clean ground. Have you done any measurements to find out where you "loose" the voltage...

I have had the load control freeze up and causing alot more problems than the fuel pump relay. This has only happened a few times, while the fuel pump relay freezes occasionaly. Go figure. Anyone who has some real world experience with the red relay for load control?

Yes it will work.

Its a night and day difference. The stock track is useless compared to the CE. Enjoy your new sled ;)!

Remove the TCV. It does not work. Install a manual boost controller.

Yeah, thats the kind of ramp I have been looking for. Im gonna get som sort of liner in the truck bed before i load the sled the first time ;)! I wonder how the fuel consumption on this car is gonna be.. Im guessing a little more than my Volkswagon Passat Turbodiesel..

2007 4.7 RAM. Picking it up next friday. ;)! Whats the best way to load the sled on the bed? What kind of ramp system should i get?

Yeah, the oil filter definately had to go. But other than that i did not have to remove anything else if I remember correctly. Just the front motor bolts and the subframe bolts. Glad you got it figured out. ;)!

You are correct ;)!

Remove every bolt except two of the upper ones (one on each side). You should be able to flex the subframe away from the motor, allowing the starter to clear between the cooler and the subframe.

No need to remove the subframe on the nytro.. Just remove some of the bolts, so that youre able to flex the subframe away from the motor, letting the starter to clear.