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The reason I let it go so long is that I had an RX-1 before this and the clutch made all kinds of noises but even at 30’000km it never let me down so I kinda lived by the “Yamaha cluches are noisey” rule. To be fair, this sled has also never let me down. Probably outside of that secondary...

You can kinda see what I did in the pic, I made a measurement between the weight and the edge. It also had a burr.. Can see the other weight behind it. Think that’s why I was blowing belts last season?

Yeah it starts with “Hmm why isn’t this roller rolling’”and next thing I know it’s like “hey that anti-lag sounds pretty cool!” So even with the extreme flat spotted secondary roller my helix doesn’t look that bad but I think I’m going to get the 35deg billet helix as suggested if for no other...

So in this case what it seems happened with the Yamaha roller is that the bushing worked its way out a little bit as you might be able to see in the pic and that causes it to bind up. I wasn’t able to roll it with my fingers at all. This caused about 0.006” to wear off the weight but I’ve...

HUGE help thanks! I do see what you’re saying in regard to controlling the variables, since I’m needing to replace most components of both clutches that’s where I start looking for a proven combo at least to set a baseline. I appreciate you taking the time to consider the details of my setup

Ok thanks for clearing that up. This is why I’m saying it’s a bit of a rabbit hole to learn this stuff. So far my take away is all I really need to understand: -The amount of weight, balance of weight and also shape of weight in primary along with the roller size/type. -primary spring preload...

I think that’s a lighter spring than factory right? I could have this totally backwards but wouldn’t a heavier spring counteract the heavier weights? So maybe a black/bronze spring would make the 70g better with a stock setup or ecotrail? Thanks

Ok, Thank you! What primary spring are you running?

They look like this: The yellow highlighted area is where the weight was wore down about .005” from the one roller that wasn’t rolling easy. The rollers aren’t that out of round. Yeah the clutches were neglected but I never had too many issues until last season or so.

I do hear what you’re saying, but if I can avoid spending yet another $300 to replace weights then I’m going to take that option. The way the Dalton weights or other adjustable are advertised seems to suggest they could be used for around a 50hp variation Mostly looking to see if anyone has...

Ok I didn’t know about that option. I have wear on my weights so I figured it was time to change them regardless so going adjustable made sense to me. Also I’ve heard clutch springs get worn out after a while too, at almost 10’000km would it be time for a change anyhow? Thanks

Question - Does anyone have experience with the Dalton 70g adjustable weights on a stock machine or the TD Ecotrail tune? (129” track, heavy rider) I see that 66g weights are recommended for that power level but I’d like to upgrade later to powertrail or max 16 maybe and would rather not have...

Much appreciated I’ll send you a PM

South Western Ontario

This is the response I got: “Due to the cost and complexity of shipping our products to Canada, we are only able to accept orders from businesses and schools. We’ve canceled your order. If this material is not for personal use, please resubmit your order online using the business or school...

I have the 24T 13wide in my 2016 RTX that I’m hoping to press in a new bushing. McMaster Carr won’t ship to Canada and so far the only stock item I can find is this one: https://www.motioncanada.ca/products/sku/02630004 Do you guys think this will work? Or if anyone has any other option...

The driveshaft saver does make a lot of sense so that the bearing is functioning as intended. What were the failures that the axle wear was causing? Like even spinning inside the bearing this one lasted me 8000km I’d imagine it could have gone longer. I’m just wondering is it something...

All, Thanks for the advice with pressing the sprockets. Sidewinder 2018, I did look at the Driveshaft Repair Bearing BOP has, my concern is that by eliminating the clip that the bearing sits against isn’t it possible the driveshaft could move and wear inside the chain case if the set screws...

Is the timing relative to the axle or just the sprockets to each other? Service manual says to scribe a mark on the axle next to the timing arrows but marking the old axle won’t do me any good for the new one. Thanks

With 8’000km on my 2017 RTX SE I was doing the first bearing replacement and no surprisingly the drive axle has worn down about 0.025 from spinning in the bearing. It looks like I can get the axle itself for about $218. Are there any special tricks to removing the plastic sprockets? It looks...