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I've been making them for a couple years and have sold lots through ebay. I love it for working on the sled and leave it coiled in so I don't have to reach under the dash to try to unplug. This is nice so you can easily start it while working on anything with the hood off.
I just machines my spring pocket deeper for the spring bind issue and machined each primary sheave for overdrive. I am getting about 96 top end now vs. my bro in law topping out at 85ish with the same MBRP can.
I have a 14 and would suggest clutching and an exhaust for cheap improvements. As for starting, make sure to keep the key turned to start until it is running. Kickback seems to occur when if you let off just after you hear it begin to fire. It is a bit frustrating compared to how nytros...
A few weeks ago I lost one of the cinch straps that hold the expandable rear tunnel bag to the bumper and haven't had any luck finding a replacement, anyone else had this issue or know of a source? I've tried my local Yamaha dealer and even Joanne fabric / hobby stores but so far no luck...
I've been looking at switch options to allow the fan reverse to be switched on the fly and really prefer the looks of this one...
My concern is how may people feel comfortable cutting a rectangular hole in their cowling to install a switch like this? I think these don't look nearly as nice...
I've tried pushing back on the hood and pulling for ward on the cowling at the same time using a 3rd hand to tighten the screw and still have challenges getting it to stay put. I'm starting to wonder if the groove is too wide and the "key" is just pulling out.
My hood does the same thing, right side seems to stay latched in the groove but the left side keeps coming out. I've tried keeping tension on it while tightening the torx screw that retains it to the lower cowling but nothing seems to be able to get it to grab properly and stay latched. Anyone...
Here's the MacGyver fix for the exhaust yesterday to hold the outlet tube up into the muffler body. Drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the outlet tube to run the bailing wire through, then looped the wire up around the upper bracket at twisted to get it tight. This kept most of the exhaust...
While riding on hardback today all of a sudden the sled got very loud. I looked back and saw the muffler outlet pipe bouncing down the trail.
Has anyone else had this failure?
Is MBRP still warranting these?
I ended up riding without the side panel about 10 miles to get to a friends place...
My only concern about an on-off-on DPDT switch is that someone may accidentally leave it in the off position. I suppose that the ECU monitors coolant temperature and will warn you before damage occurs.
Would people prefer a longer harness to have the switch mounted to to the area behind the windshield (drill a hole and mount the switch) or just put it in line with the harness and reach under the hood to switch it?
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