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If you can still see the "II" mark when the cams are aligned then you're OK. If it's one tooth off the "II" mark won't be visiable when the cams align. One tooth off significantly moves the mark far enough out of the window making it obvious its wrong. When its off by a tooth the engine will...

The problem I see is that the cams are not aligned. If you rotate them CW to align marks that will rotate the mark in the inspection window CW so it will be even further off the mark. With the cams proper aligned the lower "II" mark usually doesn't align perfectly with the case unless everything...

I'm still around if you need help with the subframe. grizztracks@gmail.com

There were fuel pump failures the first couple of years of the 850 but they weren't overly common. The fuel pump relay was also reported as a problem in cold weather areas. It can be upgraded to a solid state relay. I believe it's a cold start ECU mapping issue.... These engines are designed to...

The cold start issue is common. My X2 would take 2-3 attempts when I first got it. I found that it was better to stick to 87 octane fuel. I also replaced the muffler exhaust tip with a less restrictive port which unexpectedly reduced the cold start issue. Weller racing offers exhaust tips and...

If it jumped time it won't idle properly. If the idle is OK then I'd look at what you did to the clutch to determine if that's your noise.

I thought I had a problem in the chain case with 1500 miles on my 2015 Viper. Tore it down and found a bad clutch side jack shaft bearing but with all the concerns about the wobble bearing I decided to replace that also. Stuck a new FAG bearing in there and 9,000 miles later it's still holding...

I installed a Nytro ECU in a Viper. It's not a direct swap and as far as I know, no one else has tried it. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-glider-build.141852/

12 volt systems have basically a standard voltage requirement for a vehicles. Usually a good fully charged battery should read 12 to 12.5 volts. A running charging system should output 13 to 14 volts. Battery cranking voltage shouldn’t drop below 9.5 volts and if it does that normally indicates...

The stator need to be tested. It's any easy test if you have a multimeter. If the stator checks OK then replace the rectifier/regulator. If you run it with a fully charged battery it'll run until the voltage drops to low to run the electronics and you'll be stranded again.

I've installed them for others (stators and starters). So far I've never had or known of any problems with them.

The rectifier/regulator hasn't changed so the stator's connection to it hasn't changed either. The rotor (fly wheel) part number changed with the newer stator so if you went with the newer part number you might need to replace the rotor with it. Rick's Motorsport Electrics have decent stators...

If the coolant hasn't been serviced it may be time. As the coolant ages it looses it's ability to dissipate heat. The coolant usually looks dark and the freeze point decreases past -40. Flush the system and replace coolant with a 50/50 blend. I've found that the best way to refill the system...

Yea, that's not my granddaughter on the cover. The magazine initially told us that we'd be on the cover and that it would be the first time they put a child on it. I think they had second thoughts and got cold feet at the last minute so they stuck with their legacy of having half naked women on...

A feature article about me and my now 4 year old granddaughter (not pictured on cover) will be in the February issue of Easyriders Magazine. My granddaughter and I spent a lot of our time during the Covid shut down tinkering in my garage while my wife and daughter worked remotely from home. At...

It was time for a new one. I think you'll be good after the replacement.

Most people like them. I tested several prototype sets and did a lot of adjusting on them in an attempt to optimize performance (maybe to much adjusting). I ran them for a season but then went back to the stock front end when I moved to the Viper so my experience with them was short. Overall...

The front lower a-arm mounting hole was torn pretty bad but It was the only subframe damage and that was repairable. Peter at Mountaintech called me minutes after I did this to discuss running prototype trail arms so when I put it back together I did some testing with the Mountaintech arms.

Ignition timing can only be off if the reluctor ring slipped on the stub shaft or coil wires are crossed up. Pull the primary clutch and stub shaft to check the position of the reluctor ring. These are interference engines so if the valve timing jumped on the cam gears then valve/piston damage...

I ripped the a-arms off on a rail crossing and the frame survived. I did have to repair one of the lower a-arm mounting holes but other than that the reinforced frame held up to the impact.