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It may still be available in the USA, Japan dealers want a frame number.

We can probably turn up a frame number or two and get some orders in, but they will probably shut it down… anyone have a number we can try out?

Uhhhg. Yamaha Japan is requiring a frame number to order the part. This indicates that Yamaha, at least in Japan, wants to keep that rare(ish) stock they have on hand for actual replacement on the models that came with it. Very likely due to them dropping out of the snow market. USA could be...

Ohlins came on the rear of Apex GT models from 06 - 10. 2008 40th front, or accessory.

@RobX-1 No, I order directly through a supplier in Japan. I’ll PM the info to you. @Stubbs can you purchase the control rezi separatel?

Japan prices on some items can be less than 1/2 of USA retail. The YRSS part needs to be quoted… but as an example, the base Apex front shock 8HG-2376A-00-00 retail is $783.99. It can be purchased for about $560 USA, or $306 Japan + Shipping and customs.

I’ll see if ordering direct from Japan can drop that price.

Spring works just fine. Thank you!

Does anyone have a race front end that we could use for development? I’m still game to do something here… we could scan the dang thing into CAD and have some real fun with it. Billet, anyone?

The picture shows the bushing, however, the part number will be the same as the needle bearing in the pitman arm. Note that the arm is also different. As far as I’m aware, you can‘t install the bearings into the idler arm that is made for the bushings. The “ bearing“ arm is no longer available...

A couple of tid-bits. Grease seals can be added to the steering blocks, they are molded to accept the seals. A simple -214 X-Ring can be used, or Yamaha produces seals for the ATVs that should fit (need to verify). The idler pivot arm in the swing set steering can be replaced with the unit...

The Viking 700 engine and clutch are pretty much the same as the old Rhino. I had a Viking 3 seater for a bit, I wouldn’t run any larger than you truly need for conditions. As for clearance, 26”ish sticks in my mind.

Yup.

Throwing sh#t at the wall… I am curious if moving the rear arm back could be of benefit? The old Ski Doo Sc3 moved the arm back for the extended length of the 136” Renegade models. The 136” Proaction on the Rage and Warrior models did the same. A longer shock and transfer rod would be required...

I’m surprised they last as long as they do… none of the holes or upper edges have very good chamfers. A little machine work would probably increase the life dramatically.

Some 11/12 RZR models came with a dry sump engine, be interesting to compare it to snow engine and see if they dusted it off or built all new.

It certainly appears to have the funky headlight.

Spot anything?

More info on the fuel pick up?

The trick with IQS would be to add Fox BOC/bottom out control, which is pretty much the same as Ohlins PDS. With that said, everyone thinks their trash/bump sled is the best, until some dude that knows how to ride shows up with an old trailing arm Yami.