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I have a 2005 rage with stock single keel skis. I know different skid. I installed the aggressive snow trackers. 0 toe out, backed the shock preload off snugged back up a couple turns. Point and go, couldn’t be happier. No skid adjustments made.
I think what yamajon was suggesting is switching center coil with either of the other coils to see if the dead cylinder changes then you know it’s the coil
Even with the right bushing fit is tight. Piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod with a couple washers and nuts help suck them in. Good video on YouTube showing complete apex bushing replacement.
Not trying to be a smart #*$&@ but have you removed the old bushing. I bought the same kit and some of the bushing are snug but everyone in the kit fit
Agree, I’m south Maine but my dealer of choice closed a fair number of years ago. Nearest dealer is over an hour away now. Yamaha closed shop in the Burg quite a while ago which is where I do most of my riding. No plans to get rid of my Yamaha but picked up a Doo 1200 this year. Just got...
Yes we do the same as well and have not lost someone at an intersection. We use the radio more for mechanical breakdowns and such. Don’t like getting to the next intersection 10 miles away and realize someone is having issues 7 miles back
So in the past our group has used Chatterbox communicators spread throughout. Leader, a couple mid pack and last guy in line. They were great when new but battery life in the cold once a few years old is not great. We found a cheap alternative to be lead and last guys carry some handheld gmsr...
This is true but keep in mind the linq saddlebags also utilize a small mounting nub that is positioned on the side of the tunnel. With the extra height I don’t know if this can be mounted at the right vertical distance relative to the linq bracket
Instead of the rails being straight they have a bend towards the rear of the skid and tip up. Can run a longer track and get float in deeper snow but when on trail handles more like a short track
Try a piece of 3/8 threaded rod with washers and nuts on each end. Long enough to go through the bushings and a arms. Snug up the nuts and then keep tightening with some wrenches. Should suck the bushing right in.
Have had mine for a couple years and they still look like new.
No noticeable difference in steering effort except nondarting.
I have not experienced any difference in mpg in soft conditions as Dan has. No more so than associated with extra track spin.
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