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My buddy has decided not to fix the sled. Anybody out there interested in the sled for parts? '05 Rage with 1200 miles. Other than the broken rod, everything else is in good working order.
tabhp........Remove all the oil lines and check for plugs. The oil you see in the measuring cup...
According to the dealer, the engine is toast. Busted rod that punched a hole in the crankcase. Not sure what caused the broken rod, but it will cost more to fix the sled than it's worth.
thrasher........After explaining the problem to the dealer, he said what you said. When I initially took the airbox off, I noticed the oil return line was not connected at the airbox. So, I figured that was the cause of the oil leak problem. As long as I had the airbox off, I decided to...
Put everything back together yesterday and let it idle for about 15 - 20 minuets - no leaks and everything sounded good. So, today I took the sled out for a test ride. Well, about 3 miles into the test ride (at about 20 mph,) the engine suddenly cuts out and the RPMs will not go above 2500...
Metallicat..........The oil has a chocolate milk appearance. I think this indicates water in the oil. Would water from condensation cause this? The antifreeze looks normal and is not low. At this point, I've removed the battery and holder as well as the oil tank. I can't find anything that...
My buddy asked me to look into an oil leak problem on his '05 Rage. I traced the leak down to the air box. Oil is spurting out the breather tube from the oil valve to the air box. Below are pictures of what I'm talking about. Any idea about what's wrong and how to fix it?
Eh Pex............It's always cheaper to prevent a problem than to fix a problem. With that said, if you have never removed the chain case cover, I'd recommend you do so. In addition to cleaning out the gunk, check the torque on the driven gear bolt. If the bolt has never been removed...
The welder was able to close up the hole. For aesthetic reasons, I painted the cover black. Fortunately, all the gears and bearings looked good and the chain was still tight. Although I only have about 20 miles on the repair, so far - so good.
Two things I take away from this experience...
NY AttakGT............Thanks for the charts ;)!
darv...........The first 1/4 inch of threads were stripped off the old bolt and the rest of the threads were flattened down to about 1/32. I bought a new bolt from the dealer. As you mentioned, there is a new bolt. Here is the part number...
Irv.......There was about an ounce of oil left on the chain case. The dip stick, however, dry.
Anybody know what the torque specs are for the driven gear bolt and chain case cover bolts?
Took the chain case apart today. I think I caught it in time because everything looked good. And, yes, it was the bolt that holds the driven gear in place. Funny, I never notice an oil spot on the garage floor.
kinger.........The chain case cover is at the welder. If he can't fix it, I'd...
NY AttakGT & Kaz........Thanks for your replies. I agree - it looks like the bolt the holds the lower gear onto the drive shaft has worked it way through the chain case cover. The chain case, by the way, was dry.
I don't want to spend the $$ on a new cover, but, obviously, the cover needs...
Went to check the oil today and found a loose bolt sticking out of a hole in my chain case! Is this common? Looks like I'll need to replace (or repair) the chain case.
More important than regular vs. premium is oxygenated vs. non-oxygenated. If at all possible, do not use oxygenated fuel. Here in MN, non-oxygenated is 91. By running 91 non-oxygenated, you get the best of both worlds. :Rockon:
My son, 13 years old, and I, 50 years old, would be interested in a TY ride. We are, however, going to Scottsdale Jan. 21st - 24th for the Barrett-Jackson auto auction. Assuming the ride is not during the B-J auction, count us in.
My son, 13 years old, and I, 50 years old, would be interested in a TY ride. We are, however, going to Scottsdale Jan. 21st - 24th for the Barrett-Jackson auto auction. Assuming the ride is not during the B-J auction, count us in.
I've always broken in my sleds hard (be careful not to overheat the engine) and switch to synthetic oil at the first factory recommended oil change (500 miles.) Be sure to change the filter also. After the first oil and filter change, I just change the oil at the end of the season.
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