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Some (like myself) bypass the intake and dump it on the ground where it once came from. Some will fit a catch can. When I did my bypass there was a big pit of oil in the intake ahead of the turbo. Took it all apart and cleaned all the hoses, never putting that PCV hose back there. The bypass...

Would love to see something like the Koenigsegg Freevalve engine put in a sled, brilliant concept.

My '23 ROV only made a popping/puffing sound at idle, just releasing pressure I guess. I could clearly hear it if I put my ear to the intake. But revving sound? Is it consistent, what rpm, is it at idle, does it sound like a water pump speeding up? The pump in my car was actually the vacuum...

I've heard this on my car. Turned out I forgot to put the insulation back in place after checking the hydraulic pump (active suspension). Do you have power steering? Could also be fuel pump?

I've been told pre warming happens when you put some load on it, like turning the key and letting the display light on, roll over valve element (on newer sidewinders) etc. is this enough?

I recommend Deviant Ink, I've used them twice now. Clean everything with rubbing alcohol, it dries very fast, and removes residue really well. Just use a heat gun to heat up those "pebbled" surfaces and the stuff sticks really well. The decals are top notch, original is just wet paper compared...

Oh and on the turbo check that compressor wheel for play. Check hoses for cracks.

Maintenance is about a lot more than changing fluids, here are some examples: be sure to check for worn out components (bearings, bushings, gaskets etc.) check and clean clutches, check skis and track for wear and allign them and make sure everything is tight, check for exhaust leaks, pop in...

Congrats! There are lots of things you could check out, or do to prevent issues. Here's a lot of them: https://ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-frequently-asked-questions.120191/

Thanks for the feedback! I've used the X3 on a 162" Viper (and loved it) but unfortunately they don't make those for 153", that's why it's not included in this poll. I'm interested in the X3.2, but not sure if the clearance is good enough for getting snow outta the tunnel.

2023 MTX 153” with 270 kit. After 1200 brutal kms my 3" Powerclaw is ready to be swapped out. I'm posting this poll, but also hoping for lots of feedback on different tracks. Do the paddles flex, does the track trench, is it sturdy, how is the grip, half or full clipped, how much does weight...

Would recommend the Challenger 3X. Less prone to flexing/tearing than the Powerclaw, and you get more grip on harder snow, especially with the sawtooth one.

Installed this just after the season ended. Used the same template as I had on my previous Viper, but went blue this time. Deviant Ink, high quality stuff!

Most 270 kits don't come with headers, but use the original manifold which tends to crack at the welds over time. With the original exhaust setup you shouldn't have afr issues. I recommend MCX steel exhaust side vent. I used plastic vents which melted.

Extractor exhaust?

My tank melted likely because the header shield had a crack. Got that welded together. I didn't get to try a turbo wrap before I sold it. I think it's better with a shield over it to let the turbo heat transfer. As long as you have an uncracked header shield you should be good. Sidewinder is...

Never got that afr gauge I ordered from MCX. Ended up grabbing my grinder and cutting a big hole in the aftermarket sidevent. My new Sidewinder has a heat shield over the turbo and a heat wrap hanging below that next to the exhaust can, works like a charm. Dealer told me the orange color is...

Did a quick test drive. The light is clearly brighter, but has less spread. The light image is sort of flat, but I do see the terrain better. I'm pretty comfortable using only this in the dark.

Bolted directly to the "windshield". Can barely even see it! Had to grind some cheap spade connectors to fit the original connector. I will test and post results later when it gets dark.

On bigger sleds I usually lock the brake, then jam a key with adequate length between top of primary and center/bottom of secondary. Take care not to place it on sharp/weak parts. Not sure how the smaller ones look.