mebelee
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I removed the right side bolt of the front swing - I cannot align the hole in the tunnel...HELP ???
4strokeluvr111
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Not 100% sure exactly what you are talking about but would removing the shock help line it up?
DGZRT
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The best thing I have found is to remove the small bolts in the limiter strap and the disconnect the rear bolt in the transfer rod . Now the suspension moves freely.
I have found that a spreader clamp up in front of the mounting bolts to spread the tunnel just slightly helps to get the front arm over the rivets and into place. After the bolts are in. With the track still off the ground but a block or 4 x 4 under the front of track and let it down to give the limiter slack put the two bolts back in . If you cant get the back transfer bolt in use a ratchet strap to pull the back arm to the front and it goes easy.
Good luck
Good luck
4strokeluvr111
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Now I understand....put a 4x4 block of wood underneath the front of the track/skid and let the sled down slowly until the hole lines up.
Disconnect the transfer rod. Will line up very easy.
mebelee
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Guess I'm showing how terribly ignorant I am. (although I have been working on sleds my entire life)- mostly Polarii & never had probs with installing the skid frame. Please allow me to explain what I did. I removed one of the bolts where the arm attaches to the tunnel. I did not remove the whole thing. So you are saying to block up the front & remove the limiter strap? That much I get. Will I HAVE to remove the transfer rod (or bolt) ? Kinda squeemish about removing anything else. Neither parts fish I have shows the transfer rod but the manual shows a pic. What difficulty can I expect if I do remove the rod or just the rear? bolt as you said. My storage barn has no electric or heat and I fear I will soon lose a warm day to do this. Read the torque specs for the bolts at 70 ft lbs. Must I torque ? Will it operate correctly if is over tightened ? Are the funky looking locknuts reusable ?The best thing I have found is to remove the small bolts in the limiter strap and the disconnect the rear bolt in the transfer rod . Now the suspension moves freely.
I have found that a spreader clamp up in front of the mounting bolts to spread the tunnel just slightly helps to get the front arm over the rivets and into place. After the bolts are in. With the track still off the ground but a block or 4 x 4 under the front of track and let it down to give the limiter slack put the two bolts back in . If you cant get the back transfer bolt in use a ratchet strap to pull the back arm to the front and it goes easy.
Good luck
Thank you soo much - hope I gave you a giggle with my lack of knowledge.
DGZRT
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This is on my phone so bare with me. Get the track off the ground. Lifting from the back bumper works. Next find you front limiter strap. It has two very small bolts on the bottom and two more towards the top. Take the two bottom ones out. Unwrap the strap from around the bar. This will allow the front "w" arm to move freely. If the strap is too tight to unwrap this is where you place a block of wood under the very front of the track. When you lower the back end down the front will move up and the strap gets loose. This is what you will need to do to get it back together. In the front they are just bolts with washer and lock nut. I reuse my nuts but apply blue lock tite and never have had a problem. So with the limiter strap off the front arm move easy . The hardest part is getting it over the rivets on the mounting plate. For just the front bolts you shouldn't have to remove the transfer bolt.
Keep asking questions we will help all we can!!
Keep asking questions we will help all we can!!
Last edited:
Froggy
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I used a ratchet strap on my 2010 LTX Vector, just wrap the strap around the front and rear suspension arms by connecting the two straps ends together and tighten her up until your holes lines up. do one side at a time. I watched the Yamaha mechanic do this on my 2o10 when he replaced the skid after some warranty work on the rear shock.
DGZRT
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If you have three of the bolts in . Yes use the ratchet strap method. I guess I'm trying to explain what I do when I remove the whole suspension. One good trick when trying to install it back in the track is to lay some old slides cross wise between the rubber nubs. This allows you not to fight the suspension over the rubber drive nubs . It basically slides right in
mebelee
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TX soo much I'm glad we clarified it all. It shouldn't be that hard. Luckily the "W" arm is behind the rivets, and I can see 1/2 of the bolt hole's diameter. I'm told that the only stupid question is the one not asked.hahaThis is on my phone so bare with me. Get the track off the ground. Lifting from the back bumper works. Next find you front limiter strap. It has two very small bolts on the bottom and two more towards the top. Take the two bottom ones out. Unwrap the strap from around the bar. This will allow the front "w" arm to move freely. If the strap is too tight to unwrap this is where you place a block of wood under the very front of the track. When you lower the back end down the front will move up and the strap gets loose. This is what you will need to do to get it back together. In the front they are just bolts with washer and lock but. I reuse my nuts but apply blue lock tite and never have had a problem. So with the limiter strap off the front arm move easy . The hardest part is getting it over the rivets on the mounting plate. For just the front bolts you shouldn't have to remove the transfer bolt.
Keep asking questions we will help all we can!!
This question is unrelated to this thread -but as long as I have your attention. Does a new
Nut, Spring
90183-06100-00 that holds the instrument pod to the headlight have a bolt stop in it, or does the screw just go in tight ? I fear breaking the plastic around the headlight where the spring nut slides over as I install a new screw. Thanks again !
DGZRT
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Sorry was at my brothers last night installing HID head lights. The part in question accepts the 10mm mounting bolt on mine I use a 1/4" drive and just snug it up. Those plastic arms on the headlight assembly are known to break off right there. If you have that problem Travis at Barn of parts has a kit to fix this with out buying a new assembly.
mebelee
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1997 Polaris Ultra SPX SE
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I used a ratchet strap on my 2010 LTX Vector, just wrap the strap around the front and rear suspension arms by connecting the two straps ends together and tighten her up until your holes lines up. do one side at a time. I watched the Yamaha mechanic do this on my 2o10 when he replaced the skid after some warranty work on the rear shock.
Last edited:
mebelee
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1997 Polaris Ultra SPX SE
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- Barnesville, PA
Thanks for the link it looks like a candy store for Grups !Sorry was at my brothers last night installing HID head lights. The part in question accepts the 10mm mounting bolt on mine I use a 1/4" drive and just snug it up. Those plastic arms on the headlight assembly are known to break off right there. If you have that problem Travis at Barn of parts has a kit to fix this with out buying a new assembly.
mebelee
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1979 Arctic Cat Pantera
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1997 Polaris Ultra SPX SE
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- Barnesville, PA
I had the beck of the sled up on a come-along. So I put a floor jack under the front of the track * jacked till there was slack in the limiter strap. Removed it & the bolt hole aligned. Thanks for your help !
DGZRT
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Glad it worked out for you !! Now pray for SNOW
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