• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2011 XTX Overheating / temp light

I finally had time to button things up. With the temp gauge hooked up I watched the temp rise to 200 with it running into shop. I'm not sure if this is normal with it at room temp so I shut it off. Any advise would be helpful. Also wondering what would be best to tap into for ignition power for the gauge? We got 8" of so so maybe I can run it around and check the temp. Thoughts?
 

I am sure if you have it sitting and idling, they will climb till they overheat. The only time I idle, is to let it warm up, and now with a guage you have total control. Check Ulmer Racing site and click on Instructions and you may find something on guage installation and power source. Your MTX heat exchanger will be for the better.
 
Sitting on your sled, the left side wiring harness near the headlight has a bundle of 6 or 7 wires that are capped off. Red with a white stripe. Tap into either one of them for a keyed power source.
 
Under your rubber accy. port there's a fused accy. cable for the power point. I believe it's a orange and brown wire. As Nitris says there hot keyed wires there.
 
Yesterday was the last possible day to test out the sled at home, as the trails were closing at midnight . So, new thermostat, added MTX exchanger and temp gauge tapped into the thermostat housing. I rode 25 miles in the worst conditions I could ever encounter. It ran from 165-180 moving and climbed to 200 at idle after 10 min. I took a picture of the muddy trail but I'm not sure how to load it. I feel confident the issue is solved.
 
I was in upper Michigan mon thru wed. Had fuel relay issues in morning and just put warm water on it and off I went. Then started having over heating problems. My exchanger would be packed with slush that I would have to dig out every 5 miles. But when I would stop my fan wouldn't run. I'm guessing the fan keeps it cool till the exchanger melts that snow and it gets thrown out. Light came on several times. Now I'm going to do oil and antifreeze change.

P.s. Saw and heard a good looking group of nytros up there
 
Well after going up North again, I still have the same issue with it getting hot. It runs at almost 200 on a lake or on the trail. Back to the drawing board...
 
r u checking to c if you have slush up in the heat exchanger ? u should, every time my temp light comes on its slush packed up in the front exchanger. just saying
 
Your Feb.8 report in lousy conditions, sounded promising, 165 to 180 is what you want. Was your last trip in heavy, wet snow, and warmer outside temps, which is not ideal for cooling. Running at almost 200 isn't the worst, if it's not getting help from snow. What about installing scratchers, is your track too tight, can you add another vent to improve airflow in the engine compartment, I'm just throwing a few things out there.
 
There has got to be something going on here. Could be air in the system. I had the Same issue. Couldn't ride 3 miles with out the light coming on even with the extra cooler. Came to find out the deal added the 2014 yamacool into my 09 and they are not compatabil and the system jelled up in spots and wouldn't let it flow. Now that is ironed out I rode last weekend in the UP on Friday it was 54 out and sunny and 182 was the hottest it got. Staying mostly around the 175 mark. I have the mountain tech dash vent and his cooler and two mod Rod vents behind the shocks. I would flush it real good with distilled water and when you fill it I found it helpful to just jack up the right front of the sled to help with getting the air out.
 
you said at the you had to top off your coolant reservoir ? this is a seal system nothing should escape from it ... i would start by doing a system pressure test to find out if there any leak a crack hose or loose fitting the coolant flow can cause a ventury effect and draw air in the system and cause a air lock and stop the flow of coolant .lift the front end to bleed it open the rad cap then cold start the sled look in the rad their should be not much coolant flow since the thermostat should be close to allow engine to warm up it should open around 156-164 then obvious coolant flow should be visible if not thermostat , water pump and obstruction of system should be considered make sure coolant fluid used are compatible . inspect and test all electrical component temp sensor , rad fan relay,rad fan motor and wiring for chafing or rodent damage they like to chew on wire , the fan should engage around 176 hope this help good luck
 


Back
Top