• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2013 Nytro FX camber adjustment

terez

Expert
Joined
Dec 13, 2013
Messages
266
Location
Ottawa ON Canada
my 2013 Nytro FX seems to have positive camber ..especially on one side.....I assume the camber should be as close to zero as possible...especially with tuners?

How do you adjust camber?....shimming the upper ball joint where it threads into the upper A arm?

Subframe is staright...perfect in fact.

IMG_20161001_133132_zpshovwkjpu.jpg

IMG_20161001_133142_zps1ahlbc0u.jpg
 

looks like it is set up for circle track. I would take loose the top ball joint and adjust there and set lock nut once you get it squared up. remember that angle can change when you put weight on the sled so set it with your dressed weight on the seat.
 
In the pics, it looks like both of your skis are turn to the left. Align skis with track then check your caster.
 
These are not meant to be adjustable so if you don't have proper camber something is probably loose or bent. You should have 1 to 2 degrees of negative caster which can be difficult to accurately measure unless the sled is on a level surface. Having a digital angle finder makes measuring the spindle camber much easier but it also can be done with a cheap dial gauge found at most home stores. If you want easily adjustable caster and camber the Hygear upper A-arms are a nice option.
 
Well I haven't defaulted to any scientific measuring at this point... :)

But the Camber appears to be positive on both sides of the sled. Correct me if Im wrong but positive infers outward at the bottom vs outward at the top of the spindle?

Is castor not rearward vs forward in a front to rear dimension?

The bars were turned slightly to the left in the pics.
The right side camber is def significantly positive...the left being very close to zero.

The subframe and A arms are un injured...and they don't appear to have any variance in their measurements all around.
I was hoping the upper ball joint could be shimmed but the way it is secured to the A arm looks like it is not possible?

I assume the camber slightly goes further positive as the suspension bottoms...scrubs...like most A arm designs? This is why most dial in a bit of neg camber to start with?

There doesn't seem to be any play in the ball joints or A arm bushings. The sled has 5000km of trail riding...no off trail or serious abuse and it has verver been crashed or hit anything hard so I'm pretty confident the subframe/frame/A arms are straight.

Without upper ball joint adjustability form the oem BJ's what are my options? Are there aftermarket BJs available for the oem A arm/spindle setup that offer camber adjustability?
 
Here is a good explanation for a wheeled vehicle ,but same applies. Also when checking camber be careful as your skis/carbides (they way they sit on the ground can give you erroneous readings), also make sure your toe in tow out is correct and your skis are pointing straight ahead. As Grizz pointed out yours are not adjustable. Those of us who have the Mountain Tech and some other front ends can adjust caster/camber. I think something simple like your ski not sitting right on a hard surface or not straight when checking them. If you turn your skis left or right you will see the camber change. They should be slightly -1 deg negative camber(lean inward at the top of the spindle)

Pete

Caster.camber.PNG
 
Last edited:
Camber refers to the upper and lower ball joint alignment as you look at it from the front. (negative camber => top of spindle leaning in toward body).

caster-camber diagram.jpg
trail2.jpg
 
Thanks for the diagram. I understand the concepts properly then....just the reference of camber being pos vs neg....a lot of people seem to confuse this term...while understanding the issue. inward/outward and referecing above or below the centreline.

So my sled is suffering from negative camber with the top of the spindle leaning toward the centreline of the sled.

I have always set the toe with aprox 3/8in toe out...typical sled spec to avoid darting and overall handling spec.

My garage floor is pretty flat..may not be surgical table flat but flat enough as a reference point. The right side def having much more neg camber than the left side.

The ski isn't warped, the spindle appears straight and uninjured....?
 
To measure camber or caster I'd remove the skis and place a single board under the spindles and level it from side to side. A cheap angle finder can be purchased at Home depot for $20. You may want to remove the a-arms to inspect them and the bushings. The subframe a-arm mounting holes are also prone to egging which also effect camber.
 
Well....got to the bottom of things...and gonna fall on my swordo_O

I cleared some space around the sled...jacked up the nose to have a good look and check all the components out thoroughly...took the skis off as well.
I set the sled down on the flat ground on the spindle bottoms

So here's what I found....
1. The inside carbides were worn flat right to the thru bolts....as these were the oem non carbide runners with 7/16 host bar and the outside carbides were Woody 1/2in bar carbides with plenty meat on em.
2. The right side ski was toed out an inch more than the left ski....but the handlebars were centered.


I'm now remembering a garage session late last winter where I decided to check the toe and ski alignment and the carbides. It was ridiculously cold so the garage door stayed shut, limiting my ability to eyeball the sled from the front or rear and having to look at it from up close and at crooked angles. There were a few other lads in the garage workin' on another wounded sled so space was at a premium and there would have been much abuse and grief had I opened the door to stand back and MK3 eyeball the sled from a distance and properly centred. I also didn't use a pair of long flat references alongside the skis to verify the toe and or alignment....or use a tape measure....a whiskey dampened MK3 eyeball while crouched basically right in front of the sled was it.....:dunno:
When I checked the skis the Woody carbides I had on the inside were good but the Yamaha 2in carbides were pooched. The only replacements I had were the oem non carbide runners that had came with the sled so on they went intended as a bandaid.
Further it appears I put the skis back on mixing up left/right which put the shorter lil non carbide runners on the inside.....which looks like they immediately wore thru to nothing as the last couple rides of the season were in brutal conditions.
Lastly there was a LOT of whiskey drained during this session...I was pretty skinned by the time this wrenchin occurred:drink:

So..... I ended up with a thoroughly incompetent alignment...more accurately a toe job which had the right ski toed wayyy out and then ended up with basically no inside carbide at all and a nice big 1/2in bar carbide on the outside after by mixing up the right/left skis....drunkenly forgetting that dual keel tuners skis are proprietary left/right when using different carbide setups on ea ski.
The combo of the crappy toe and the tuners leaning in on the absent inside carbides was pretty much the whole issue.:o|:o|

I took all the carbides off the tuners and put em back on, opened the garage door and laid 6ft straight bars alongside the inside edges of the skis back to the track and then used a tape measure to properly establish toe/alignment with the track as reference...dialing in 3/8in toe and centered bars.
Bam.....everything is cool now!!!;)!

In a drunken stupor....I made a whack of mistakes and set the sled up way bad. The last couple rides the conditions were awful so I didn't notice the horrible handling...which I'm sure would have been obvious in good conditions.....then changed the oil/greased her up and it never moved till now.



Now she looks like this:-o I am prepared to spend some time in the stockade and have veggies hurled at me...fire away....:cool:



IMG_20161002_173754_zps71z3hbqf.jpg

IMG_20161002_173808_zpsfkgvqxja.jpg

IMG_20161002_173814_zpsohyvtnjj.jpg
 
BTW...the ball joints/tie rod ends and A arm bushings have a slight bit of play....nothing too bad...and everything is straight and true......a few good dings in my MTN Tech skidplate that would have prolly defeated the oem panel....;)!;)!
 
I just came back from doing the oilite bushing kit in my buddy 2011 nytro along with upper and lower ball joints and his negative camber issues are gone and now has a nice tight front end. He had 6000miles on it and it was finished!!!
 
I just came back from doing the oilite bushing kit in my buddy 2011 nytro along with upper and lower ball joints and his negative camber issues are gone and now has a nice tight front end. He had 6000miles on it and it was finished!!!

Miles or KM??
 
I still have a skosh more negative camber in the right side ....there is a very slight amount of play in the ball joints as well as A arms bushings...maybe I'm underestimating the cumulative amount of play ??
My sled has nearly 6000km....I ride hard but it is all trail miles...no off trail antics or any particular hard hits....she does see some air now and again tho... :-o

Did he use oem ball joints as replacement?? what other options are there?? Oilite bushings are superior for longevity I assume? Were they a bitch to install...I have heard they can be pretty tight??
 


Back
Top