Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well they are all gouged up.
Took a quick look at it tonight and figured would be easier to pull them myself than to trailer an hour away to get it done under warranty.
Anyone tear into this before, it doesnt look like that big a deal, maybe front shock is mounted inbetween which may need to come out...
any tips pointers?
Took a quick look at it tonight and figured would be easier to pull them myself than to trailer an hour away to get it done under warranty.
Anyone tear into this before, it doesnt look like that big a deal, maybe front shock is mounted inbetween which may need to come out...
any tips pointers?
chadman
Expert
Easy job, I had to do mine and they were covered under waranty. Those wheels are $ 54 each.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Looks pretty easy,
after I get the two outside bolts out, where do I need to go next? Unhook the shock?
then entire deal will come out?
after I get the two outside bolts out, where do I need to go next? Unhook the shock?
then entire deal will come out?
chadman
Expert
You don't have to unhook the shock it all moves easy in there. Just start you will see what I am talking about. It is very easy.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
will dig into it tomorrow.
got the two outside bolts out and it doesnt move. I only had a few minutes. Tomorrow I can tear into it.
got the two outside bolts out and it doesnt move. I only had a few minutes. Tomorrow I can tear into it.
I removed my entire suspension on my 07 RTX to replace those wheels. After it was removed, wasn't too bad from there. Don't use the same wheels from Yamaha. Use the spoked plastic wheels from the accessorey catalog. Much more durable and half the $$. You may want to grease the shock bushings, etc... while you in there. I found everything in need of grease.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
< dont plan on pulling skid.
I will get the heater on it tomorrow and see if maybe its just a little frozen up.
I will get the heater on it tomorrow and see if maybe its just a little frozen up.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I've been told it is difficult to do, but you can do it without pulling the skid, but I prefer to pull the skid so I can check everything over carefully.
69redmach1
Extreme
I had to remove my skid as well to do those idlers.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well hell maybe I will just pull the skid.
cant be any more difficult than any other skid.
Any particular tips, in the past I usually use a ratchet strap to compress the skid and yank it on out.
cant be any more difficult than any other skid.
Any particular tips, in the past I usually use a ratchet strap to compress the skid and yank it on out.
Ported Hornet
Expert
Kevin Garceau said:
I am replacing mine with the spoked accessory ones as well. You are on the right track with the skid. If you have someone to help you its a easy job.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Kevin Garceau said:
As far as I'm concerned it is no more difficult than other skids to re and re.
My technique:
- raise sled & loosen rear axle bolt
- loosen track tension by 8 turns on each side
- push (kick) axle all the way forward and snug up rear axle bolt
- rotate front torsion spring holders forward and using a deep socket for extra leverage lift front of torsion springs up and over outer idlers
- swing torsion springs down, unhook spring from adjusters and bring front/lower end of spring back into stock position (leaving the springs loose)
- lower sled so track is just touching floor and unbolt rear skid/tunnel bolts
- adjust lift height if required and unbolt front skid/tunnel bolts
- using a strap, compress the rear of the suspension and tie it down
- push skid forwards and while lifting track away from rear wheels, pull the skid out sideways (I find shaking the skid helps while pulling it out - also you'll find you can push the skid forwards only when the sled is low to the ground so the front pivot arm clears a couple of rivets in the tunnel; be carefully not to break the upper bushings on the front pivot arm by forcing it too much; I usually raise the sled a little once the skid is forwards, but not much ~1")
The first time you do it, it is a bit of a pain. Now that I've done it half a dozen times, I can pull the skid in about 15 minutes and install it in 15-20 minutes. I don't bother getting any help with the skid, but having someone help to keep the track clear of the idlers when pulling the skid out/sliding the skid back in would make the job easier.
To install the skid reverse the procedure followed by adjusting the track tension and alignment.
If your sled has 3000 or more miles on it or you didn't change the bearings at the end of last season, I'd recommend changing the PTO side driveshaft bearing at the same time as any rough running idler bearings. Note that the PTO side driveshaft bearing is actually easy to change and you don't need to remove the skid if you want to do it later.
Good luck.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Kevin, you can likely do what you are trying to do by just dropping the rear. Leave the front hooked up. You don't need to relieve the track tension or anything. Just release the torsion springs prior to doing anything like Rex tells above. Wait until it's all back together to reinstall them. This'll let you see what you're doing, and give plenty of access to anything that you need to get to.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
OK got the back dropped and I can see everything. I do have all the bolts taken out of the front crossmember where the idler wheels are on, but it just remains there.
Im going to disconnect the front shock I think thats whats causing it to bind. Still dont see how the idler wheel is on there, just looks pressed on...kinda odd actually.
Man I really figured this to be a few minute job. Maybe should have let the dealer do it...LOL
Im going to disconnect the front shock I think thats whats causing it to bind. Still dont see how the idler wheel is on there, just looks pressed on...kinda odd actually.
Man I really figured this to be a few minute job. Maybe should have let the dealer do it...LOL
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
OK.... after looking at it, fighting with it, swearing at it, beating on it....it dawned on me. This is really easy if I think it through.
Steps below
1. Raise front of sled
2. Raise rear of sled
3. Back off track tension 8 turns
4. Use ratchet strap to compress skid
5. Disconnect rear of skid and pull down
6. Make sure rear is raised enough to work comfortably.
7. Remove torsion spring mount
8. Remove bolt which holds shaft of idler system - B
9. Back out set screw from the block - D
10. Remove front bolt holding shaft which limiter straps are connected to - C
11. Remove bolt where front diagnol is attached - A
12. Lift skid by hand and gently pull rails from shafts
13. Grab ilder wheel and block and easily slide out.
I wish I knew the proper terms or even how to edit my pic to add letters to correspond with the directions - seriously this took a few minutes.
Torn up wheel slid off shaft
Steps below
1. Raise front of sled
2. Raise rear of sled
3. Back off track tension 8 turns
4. Use ratchet strap to compress skid
5. Disconnect rear of skid and pull down
6. Make sure rear is raised enough to work comfortably.
7. Remove torsion spring mount
8. Remove bolt which holds shaft of idler system - B
9. Back out set screw from the block - D
10. Remove front bolt holding shaft which limiter straps are connected to - C
11. Remove bolt where front diagnol is attached - A
12. Lift skid by hand and gently pull rails from shafts
13. Grab ilder wheel and block and easily slide out.
I wish I knew the proper terms or even how to edit my pic to add letters to correspond with the directions - seriously this took a few minutes.
Torn up wheel slid off shaft
