Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Lately, I have been getting PMs regarding carb cleaning. In the past, I put together a file that covers most of, if not all, the details, etc. for a normal cleaning. Please see attached file.
Carb cleaning is not very hard. It just takes a little time, the first time around. The tips and discussion on the attached file addresses just about everything you are going to run into. If you read the file over first, carb cleaning should be a snap for you.
Carb cleaning is not very hard. It just takes a little time, the first time around. The tips and discussion on the attached file addresses just about everything you are going to run into. If you read the file over first, carb cleaning should be a snap for you.
Thank You Len very nice job!
yamamaniac
Newbie
Great info, this helps my confidence for sure!
RX1Jim
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Great info.. Here are a few suggestions from the procedure I have been using:
1. I suggest always removing the brass needle seat body so you can clean the particle screens on the input side of the needle valve. I flush the fuel line with carb cleaner to remove any accumulated debris. This also allows you to inspect the condition of the orings which seal the needle body to the carb. I have found on the last two sets of carbs I cleaned these o-rings were severely deteriorated which will lead to flooding problems. The high ethanol content in today's gas deteriorates the o-rings. The replacement o-ring can be either Viton or Buna-N material.
2. While have the carbs open, check and adjust the float height if necessary. This is very easy to do with a machinist's ruler.
3. I remove the rubber diaphragms from the top of the carbs and inspect them for cracks. I also remove them to prevent them from geting soaked with carb cleaner.
4. Make sure the float and needle assembly operate freely. The float should move freely when you rotate the carb from upside down to righ side up.
5. I keep the float bowl gaskets, o-rings, viton needle valve and slide diaphragms away from the carb cleaner. The carb cleaner makes these components swell up to the point they will not fit back into the carb
6. I check the TPS sensor using an ohmmeter to make sure it is functional
7. I check the operation of the TORS switch on the carb with an ohmmeter to make sure it is working.
Just suggestions, take them or leave them.
1. I suggest always removing the brass needle seat body so you can clean the particle screens on the input side of the needle valve. I flush the fuel line with carb cleaner to remove any accumulated debris. This also allows you to inspect the condition of the orings which seal the needle body to the carb. I have found on the last two sets of carbs I cleaned these o-rings were severely deteriorated which will lead to flooding problems. The high ethanol content in today's gas deteriorates the o-rings. The replacement o-ring can be either Viton or Buna-N material.
2. While have the carbs open, check and adjust the float height if necessary. This is very easy to do with a machinist's ruler.
3. I remove the rubber diaphragms from the top of the carbs and inspect them for cracks. I also remove them to prevent them from geting soaked with carb cleaner.
4. Make sure the float and needle assembly operate freely. The float should move freely when you rotate the carb from upside down to righ side up.
5. I keep the float bowl gaskets, o-rings, viton needle valve and slide diaphragms away from the carb cleaner. The carb cleaner makes these components swell up to the point they will not fit back into the carb
6. I check the TPS sensor using an ohmmeter to make sure it is functional
7. I check the operation of the TORS switch on the carb with an ohmmeter to make sure it is working.
Just suggestions, take them or leave them.
Thanks for this post helped a ton when I was cleaning my carbs. One issue I ran into is I didn't release the pilot screw set had two washers (rubber o-ring and metal washer). I took the pilot screw out and cleaned the passage with carb cleaner turned the carb back over and saw the o-ring. Didn't know where it came from but looking at the schematics I was able to figured it out. After I cleaned my carbs I think my issue is the coils. Two of the four coils don't grab the plugs at all. I guess I learned how to clean the carbs with the addition of ethanol in the fuel I guess I'll be doing this a bit more. Looking for a used set. $90 a piece at the dealer. I got 14000km out of the first set.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
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