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Front heat exchanger, hard to remove?

Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
201
Location
Eastern Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2011 Nytro XTX
I was wondering how hard it is to remove the front heat exchanger on a 2011 Nytro XTX? I had a stud pull out and cut it open, loosing all my coolant. Thanks for any input!
 

It can be done but it's a pretty big deal because yamaha has made the heat exchanger form part of the bulkhead - so it's almost part of the structure.

Most guys try and weld them. Good luck.
Ms
 
You might want to find out what shape your motor is in first. Did it overheat? Give us more details of what happened immediately after.
 
Just looking at it, looks like the chain case has to come out, suspension, drive shaft, and maybe fuel tank, etc to get at the top rivits and two mount bolts. Just wondering if anyone knows any short cuts.
 
There are no short cuts. The quickest repair is to drain, purge and weld. Did you overheat the motor?
 
I just got finished replacing my front heat exchanger. That was quite a large job. The right side engine bulkhead plate needs to be removed to replace the heat exchanger. The motor can stay in the sled, but the front subframe, steering post, seat, fuel tank, suspension, track, oil can, battery, & RH foot hold all have to be removed.

If your going to tackle the job I would invite your most mechanically inclined friend and plan on working on the machine for 10-15 hours.

Before doing all of that you need to have an understanding on how much the motor was overheated if any. Since I did this last week the entire job is fresh in my memory. Just shoot questions if you need help.

My heat exchanger was completely ripped from the top to the bottom so I didn't have any options to weld.
 
Just looking at it, looks like the chain case has to come out, suspension, drive shaft, and maybe fuel tank, etc to get at the top rivits and two mount bolts. Just wondering if anyone knows any short cuts.
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It may be possible to by pass it and put a mountain cooler in for now. But I haven't looked at it that close
 
Same thing happened to me last year....took the rear skid and track out out and brought the sled to local welding shop.....they welded it up for me....had it back together a day later
 

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is there a way to protect the heat exchanger from studs, i thought i had read about using old hi fax but i cant find anything on it now.
 
is there a way to protect the heat exchanger from studs, i thought i had read about using old hi fax but i cant find anything on it now.
There are protectors already on the heat exchanger, that keep the track and studs from contacting the exchanger when they are still attached to your track. But if a stud pulls out of the track, there is no way to prevent it from hitting the exchanger. What you read about old hyfax....that is a cheap way of installing tunnel protectors (just like the protectors on the heat exchanger, they keep the track and studs from contacting the tunnel) Nytros come with exchanger and tunnel protectors from the factory (except MTX and maybe the XTX backcountry?). Stock Phazers do not come with tunnel protectors, for example, that is probably where you read about using old hyfax. Anyway, none of that protects from stud tearouts. Only protection against that is going studless.
 
okay, thanks birdmayon. i was probably reading it on the phazer thread. i cant decide if by next track will be studded or not when i extend so i was going to add any protection i could while i was in there. guess i dont have to now since i have an RTX with the protectors.
 
I have actually seen guys mount a steel mesh across their exchanger. Chance of running hotter but no chance of wrecking exchanger.
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Just had this happen this weekend to my old man's 09 RTX SE, hot hot enough to shut itself off, track slightly ripped and twp side by side studs torn slits in the exchanger. Should we try welding? Is the inside of the cooler one large open bay or are there channels?

I have an 09 XTX that the light occasionally comes on after adding K&N air filter, full excell exhaust, and PC5, so he though his light came on because of the low snow conditions and tried getting into some powder to get it to go off, instead it shut itself down. Fro there we towed it back. How much could the motor be affected. It starts and sounds ok.

After tipping the sled on its side and bring it back down there was quite a bit of oil coming out of the skid plate, pulling it in the garage tonight to investigate, hope its just coming out of the crank case breather.
 
The cooler is actually a pancake tank. As for the oil hopefully it was from putting it on it's side. Check the airbox to see if it's wet inside. As for the motor, your best to get the exchanger repaired and then do a coolant pressure test. This will tell you if the head is warped or gasket is cooked. Good luck!
 


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