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HAS ANYONE TAKEN OUT THERE SWAY BAR?


yes i took mine out and it was alot of work but worth it in the long run since i like to jump in the mountians and need to have independant suspension.... the only downfall to it was i had to pump up the fox shocks a bit more to compensate for the roll in the machine on the trail.... but it is a small price to pay for the jumpin and mountian riding!
 
Yes, I have also recently removed the sway bar. This created much better stability on extremely bumpy trails (on straights as well as in corners). I was afraid that this would delay the initial steering response, but it seems like it was not affected at all. Though, there is a little bit more body roll in the middle of the corners, but not very annoying. Anyway, the coming weekend I will test a different shock absorber and spring setup just to see if I can limit the body roll without getting some of the sway bar drawbacks back.
As mentioned before, the four bolts holding the sway bar are not very easy to access and when you start to loosen them you will believe that they are welded in place...
 
Alatalo said:
Yes, I have also recently removed the sway bar. This created much better stability on extremely bumpy trails (on straights as well as in corners). I was afraid that this would delay the initial steering response, but it seems like it was not affected at all. Though, there is a little bit more body roll in the middle of the corners, but not very annoying. Anyway, the coming weekend I will test a different shock absorber and spring setup just to see if I can limit the body roll without getting some of the sway bar drawbacks back.
As mentioned before, the four bolts holding the sway bar are not very easy to access and when you start to loosen them you will believe that they are welded in place...

you have monster shocks and springs.......this probably help it a little. You still running the 2.8kg...?
 
gormleyflyer2002 said:
you have monster shocks and springs.......this probably help it a little. You still running the 2.8kg...?

Yes, I am still running the 28 N/mm springs. When looking back, they were maybe a little bit on the stiff side when using the sway bar. Though, not far off because I was still using the full stroke in many situations. I tested 23 N/mm and they felt too soft. The best compromise would probably have been around 26 N/mm, but that particular spring rate does not exist for the 46 mm shocks.

After removing the sway bar and still running the 28 N/mm springs, there is little bit more body roll in the middle of the corner. This is not really a problem since the initial steering response and the steering itself is not affected. However, just because of curiousity I will try a dual-spring setup that creates a progressive rate (22-32 N/mm). The lower rate (22 N/mm) should offer enough sag, and if I can get the higher rate (32 N/mm) to kick in at 40-50 mm stroke, maybe the body roll will be limited without introducing any drawbacks...?

Also, I have removed the sway bar from several other sleds and almost every time I ended up with a slower steering response or worse steering. My impression is that this does not really happen on the FX Nytro. This might be related to many things like spring and shock absorber setup, center of gravity location and roll center location, but I still get the impression that the sway bar of the FX Nytro is not very stiff...?
 
I have tested the dual-spring setup that creates a progressive 22-32 N/mm rate and also two different crossover points (the stroke where the higher rate kicks in). I found no improvement at all compared to the linear 28 N/mm springs.

A crossover point at 36 mm makes the higher rate kick in at 36 mm of stroke. With this setup I can not really feel any difference in body roll, but the whole front end feels too stiff further down the stroke (some of the stability drawbacks from the sway bar comes back).
A crossover point at 54 mm makes the higher rate kick in at 54 mm of stroke. With this setup it feels like there is even more body roll, without any positives compared to the linear 28 N/mm springs.

My conclusion is that I will stay with the linear 28 N/mm springs, since the body roll was not really a problem in the first place.
 
Alatalo: What is your oppinion on removing the swaybar if i have the stock floats on? Just adding more pressure to the floats?
 
EsonPZ said:
Alatalo: What is your oppinion on removing the swaybar if i have the stock floats on? Just adding more pressure to the floats?

I do not really know because I have not tried it myself.
Adding pressure to an air spring is comparable to adding preload AND spring rate at the same time to a coil spring.
If your steering response becomes very slow, or if you feel that you get too much body roll, or if you feel that the suspension becomes too soft in general - then you will for sure benefit from adding spring rate. Though, in theory there should be nothing positive at all about adding preload. Adding preload will just make your center of gravity higher which makes the cornering worse.
My best suggestion is for you to try it yourself. Be prepared with a heatgun and a good quality allen key...
 
I finally took mine off today and was amazed by the difference it made. Sled does not feel much tippier at all, absorbs offcamber bumps alot better and darts alot less. Best of all wayyyy less head shake when decellerating.

Works alot better for my style now, like the sled a 1000 times better now.
 
sedz said:
I finally took mine off today and was amazed by the difference it made. Sled does not feel much tippier at all, absorbs offcamber bumps alot better and darts alot less. Best of all wayyyy less head shake when decellerating.

Works alot better for my style now, like the sled a 1000 times better now.

I do a lot of high speed trail riding, in your opinion would this help or hinder that type of riding???
 
sway bar

If I cut the sway bar in half will it be easy to remove?? I know that I'll never use it again.....

I don't feel like wrenching a ton, I've done too much of that this year already....

thanks,
Ryan
 
I flipped mine over and running it between the a arms. You'll need to lengthen the dog bones and weld in a bracket for it on the lower a arm.
 

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nytro23 said:
I flipped mine over and running it between the a arms. You'll need to lengthen the dog bones and weld in a bracket for it on the lower a arm.

Did you do this simply for the gain in ground clearance?
 


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