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How to Add a Front Radiator to your RX-1

Discussion in 'RX General Talk' started by Rockmeister, Nov 25, 2008.

  1. Rockmeister

    Rockmeister Advertiser Advertiser VIP Member

    Messages:
    1,982
    Location:
    NE Indiana
    To be able to ride alot of the time in the Midwest, you have to ride marginal snow.
    My Rx-1 would heat up pretty easily in marginal snow conditions while my friends Apex right next to me didn't.

    You can even have some serious snow depth and overheat.
    Last year we had many times where the temps got warm, then cold again, this makes the snow turn into little ice balls, somewhat like sleet.
    When these little ice balls hit your heat exchanger, they just bounce off of the exchanger and take away no heat energy.
    You CAN fill your running boards with the ice balls, this works. lol
    This was a pain...

    So I added the Apex front radiator to my RX-1 to help prevent the overheating.

    Ordered an Apex/Attak front radiator and clamps from Yamaha
    Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
    Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)

    There is enough room to mount the radiator in the factory Apex location, after you do a couple mods.

    Reverse Linkage (If applicable):
    The intermediate reverse lever must be shortened to provide room for the radiator, Yamaha did this on the Apex.
    I modded the RX-1 intermediate reverse lever to match the Apex one, but you can order the lever for an Apex for about $8.
    Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00


    [​IMG]

    The rear part of the intermediate lever that controls the up/down motion must be shortened 3/4 of an inch, and the mounting hole for the lower linkage is also relocated 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.

    On the lower linkage that goes into the chaincase, you also have to relocate the mounting hole 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.

    To keep from having to rip my chaincase apart, I simply drilled an access hole in the front of the right footrest, to allow me to drill a new 1/4" hole in the lower lever.
    You can see the access hole and the relocated mounting in the pic.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Radiator mounting:
    Used three 1/4" Stainless bolts and stop nuts to mount the radiator.
    Mount the radiator with about 1/4" between the radiator itself and the frame tube.
    Also put high density weatherstripping between the radiator and the frame to help prevent possible damage from vibration.

    [​IMG]

    Fan mounting:
    The fan is a $1 12volt low current fan from a computer case.
    (Mine was actually free, but you can buy them for $1)
    The factory fan is about $160.00
    Like my free fan better... lol

    Remove the right cowling above your right foot.
    Under it is 3 control relays, unhook the right two relays by wiggling and lifting them upward.
    Lay them to the side for now.
    Unbolt the back-up alarm (if applicable).
    Set the fan in place and mark out the area needed to be cut for the fan.
    Trim out the round hole for the fan, and drill the mounting holes.
    Mount the fan so that it blows back towards your leg, drawing air through the radiator.

    [​IMG]

    Would strongly suggest using a low current fan, less than 1 amp if possible.
    Mine draws about 1/2 an amp.

    Zip-Tie the two relays to the 3rd relay on to the left of the fan, making sure nothing can get into the fan.

    Grounded the fan to the back-up alarm mounting bolt.
    The positive comes from the Blue/Red wire.
    The Blue/Red wire is right by the fan, coming from one of the relays, and is powered only when the sled is running.

    [​IMG]



    I ordered the hoses from an Apex, but they were backordered, and was supposed to go riding, so I cut the existing hose to match the lower hose, and the remainder worked perfectly for the top hose!

    The radiator made a major difference with cooling!
    Used the installation for over 2000 miles last year and am very happy with it.

    UPDATE:
    Use the Blue/Red wire to power the fan.
    (As opposed to the lighting circuit Blue/White wire)
    You may have to change the SIG fuse to a slightly higher amperage.
    Reason is: If there is a problem in your wiring, fan fails etc, you only lose your taillight, not your headlights.
  2. 03turbo

    03turbo Newbie

    Messages:
    123
    Location:
    DUGALD Manitoba
    Great write-up rock!! definetly going to get this on the turbo ASAP!!
  3. 04rxw10

    04rxw10 Paid Member Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    797
    Location:
    Lisbon Falls Maine
    Rock with all the mods you have done to your sled whats next a toilet???????

    I'm defiantly keeping these mods in mind will do them to my sled sometime
    superfan75 likes this.
  4. Rockmeister

    Rockmeister Advertiser Advertiser VIP Member

    Messages:
    1,982
    Location:
    NE Indiana
    Ummmmmmm... No... Probably not... Laffin

    However...
    I may do another one...
    How to Turbo your sled for about $1000...
    : :rules

    Will see how it works out...
    Have to do a few others first. lol

    Grinzz...
  5. crazy canuck

    crazy canuck TY 4 Stroke Guru

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    MB CANADA
    Someone should post this in the Tech Section...good writeup!
  6. RX1Jim

    RX1Jim Newbie

    Messages:
    521
    Location:
    Poughquag NY
    Have you run the sled without the fan? I would think there is enough air flowing through the engine compartment while the sled is moving that the radiator would provide good cooling without the fan. This is a great idea. Yamaha should offer it as a retrofit kit. Nice job, thanks for posting the details!!!
  7. Rockmeister

    Rockmeister Advertiser Advertiser VIP Member

    Messages:
    1,982
    Location:
    NE Indiana
    Yes, have run it without the fan.
    It works great at speed, but needed for low speeds.

    Ty! I appreciate it! ;)!
  8. Yamadog

    Yamadog Paid Member Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    2,788
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    Yeah this works great I installed one in mine last year when I put the injected 1100 cc stroker Apex motor in. I ran in 4" of snow at 40 degs at the end of the season and never had a temp light issue.

    Attached Files:

  9. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    I think I'm going to try that set up. Any estimates what the total cost is??
  10. Rockmeister

    Rockmeister Advertiser Advertiser VIP Member

    Messages:
    1,982
    Location:
    NE Indiana
    The main parts you need are:
    Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
    Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)

    They are MUST have parts, the others may or may not be needed.
    (There is alot of info in the first post.)

    Also Reverse Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00 about $8
    Worth getting, if you have reverse.

    Talk to Kevin at Port Yamaha (Site Sponser).
    Phone:(262) 284-5995
    Kevin will get you taken care of! ;)!

    You can do this mod for less than $200
    And it works great!

    Hope this helps!

    Rockmeister :-o

    PS Please add your location to your profile. :Rockon:
  11. rxrider

    rxrider Jan-Ove Pedersen Staff Member Moderator VIP Member

    Messages:
    7,232
    Location:
    Lakselv, Norway - 70N & 25E
    Country:
    Norway
    Snowmobile:
    2008 Apex RTX, 2006 Attak, 2003 RX-1
    Rockmeister - your writeup deserves a sticky, great upgrade for those riding in low snow conditions :)

    rxrider
    TY Management
  12. Rockmeister

    Rockmeister Advertiser Advertiser VIP Member

    Messages:
    1,982
    Location:
    NE Indiana
  13. rednecksized

    rednecksized Newbie

    Messages:
    69
    Location:
    Manitowoc, WI
    Does this actually replace the heat exchangers or does it just add to the system? Thanks
  14. Yamadog

    Yamadog Paid Member Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    2,788
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    just helps in low snow warm days
  15. BETHEVIPER

    BETHEVIPER Newbie

    Messages:
    1,130
    Location:
    houlton, Maine
    A cheaper version might be to look into some heater cores, might be larger capacity too. I wondered if one would work up front in the nose cone. Vent the front in and just bind it vent out the sides. That Rock is always looking for a reason to wire something up.

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