Just changed the Oil

[Nine2Nine]

I know the answer is on here somewhere but I'll take a short cut, what is the issue with too much oil in the tank? Improper return??

 

[russellrox]

So when your checking the oil you check it by not threading in the dipstick into the oil canister right, that is how I've been doing it.

 

[dubla92]

So when your checking the oil you check it by not threading in the dipstick into the oil canister right, that is how I've been doing it.

Yes you are correct. It's a dip stick, not a screw it in stick!

No harm in asking! This is just what I tell my customers and they don't forget!

 

[schwaaa31]

Is Mobile 1 full synthetic 0W-40 ok to use in my 2009 Nytro?

 

[canoehead]

Is Mobile 1 full synthetic 0W-40 ok to use in my 2009 Nytro?

Abvsolutely. Just ensure the api ratings match...

 

[schwaaa31]

Abvsolutely. Just ensure the api ratings match...

Where would I find the API ratings that yamaha recommends for the Nytro?

 

[canoehead]

It's in the manual.
YAMALUBE 4-S (0W-30) or SAE 0W-30 (USA/Canada)
SAE 0W-30 (Europe)
Recommended grade API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

 

[schwaaa31]

Thanks guys. Sorry, I'm a newbie to 4 strokes and Yamahas.

 

[Jostradamus]

Wow!

Unfortunatly, you've only done about a third, but on the bright side you'll be even better at it this time.

1.) Drain the Oil Resivor (Can on the side of the sled).
2.) Drain the Crank Case (There is socket head cap on the bottom of the motor. You'll have to remove belly pan, and flimsy gaurd covering the bottom of the engine.
3.) Remove and replace the oil filter (on the Apex I could see why some didn't want to do it, on the Nytro it's right there when you remove the pan. There's just no reason not to change it.) The first time it's tight!
4.) Carefully remove the gold color elbow fitting from the bottom of the oil can. There's a screen that should be cleaned. I would do this after break in and then at least once every two years. I do it every time. Carefull not to loose the rubber O-ring in your drain pan. Clean/Reinstall
5.) Clean everything up, install new oil filter (remember to put oil on the O-ring before installing. You can precharge the filter if you like. Up to you.
6.) Replace drain bolts in both engine and oild can. Pour required amount into oil can. At least 3 quarts.
7.) You can pour the recomended amount in the top of the motor, some do, some don't. Again your choice.
8.) Start the sled, make sure you feel the oil can getting warm. Once the oil is warm, check the level, start it up again, wait, check the level. I repeat this until I have reached the desired level, and there is no change for two cycles. FYI, slightly below is better than slightly above.
9.) Put all the covers back on, pat yourself on the back and have a beer.
10.) ride the sled and enjoy not having to buy oil at the gas stations.

I think that about covers it, if I forgot anything I'm sure someone will chime in. The Nytro really is easy to do the full service. Phazer and Apex, not so much.

I found this advice to be perfect and used this exact post to do my oil change. I would only add one thing. In my experience, when I did my 09 NYTRO XTX I ripped the o-ring for the screen housed in the elbow fitting (#4 on this post) I tried to wiggle the screen out, not knowing that the thing is 2" long. The easiest way that I found is to back off the bolt on the bottom of the oil tank (this allows you enough room to take the black hose off the elbow fitting without the hose kinking and possibly damaging the o-ring). Use a pliers to remove the clamp on the oil hose then remove. Now... here's where I ripped my o-ring. When you reassemble your elbow fitting o-ring be sure to put the o-ring in the groove on the elbow fitting first, use a little oil on the o-ring so gravity doesn't kick your #*$&@, then gently mate the elbow fitting to the oil tank, then tighten the two allen bolts evenly. (I left the o-ring on the screen housing then tightened the two allen screws and ripped the o-ring unknowingly, started the sled and dripped fresh engine oil to my shock, grabbed an empty coffee container and saved the new oil) I will try to post a pic of the old o-ring and the new one on the screen. P.S. I just bought this sled and don't have a mile on it (it has 1,619 on it) I discovered this site and absolutely love it! You guys are awesome! Thanks, Joe

 

[NS FX NYTRO]

Never again will that screen and elbow get removed from my nytro, for as long as I shall own it!

I had to replace my o ring also, and my screen mushroomed out and was next to impossible to get to go back in the hole!

 

[guzzleguts]

newbie here, I see this post is quite old but it kind of applies to what I've been trying to find out. I bought a jug of 0w40 mobil1 for my 06 nytro but while I was in my service manual, I read a warning that makes me nervous about using automotive oil, these engines have a wet clutch to engage the starter, this was the warning..

• Use only 4-stroke engine oil.

• Engine oil also lubricates the starter clutch. In


order to prevent clutch slippage, do not mix

any chemical additives with the oil or use oils

of a higher grade than “CD”. In addition, do

not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING

II” or higher.

This looks to me like using any off the shelf automotive oil will cause pre mature wear on the starter clutch which I'd be tempted to think would also contaminate the oil and plug the filter faster. It seems Yamaha deliberately uses less slippery oil for the purpose of working with wet clutches much like motorcycles wet clutches in their gear boxes or the wet clutch between the primary and the crank on a grizzly. any of you guys that have been using automotive oil have starter clutch issues?

 

[grizztracks]

The starter clutch is more of a one way bearing that locks the rollers in one direction to engage the starter motor. It's not a wet clutch like that found in motorcycles or a sprag clutch systems that's engages the grizzly's drive. The important thing in these 4 strokes is to protect metal contacting parts which requires higher levels of zinc and phosphorous. Most automotive oils don't contain enough of these additives due to the fact that they damage catalytic converters. With that said, Mobil One 0w-40 is a European blend synthetic that contains adequate amounts of zinc and phosphorous making it safe for Yamaha 4-stroke engines. I've been running it for years with no problems.

 

[Hooray!]

PG 52 in manual, Nytro Oil Change... PN's for items you might need in second pic, why so complex to sort out what you require is a mystery to me. The top half of the list is front end PN for my 2009 nitro rebuild, identified four (red) PN's to upgrade from the 2015 PN list. Found an interesting link on changing Nytro oil online too, talked about our "dry sump" 4-strokes which might be new to some, very little oil from the lower "engine" drain bolt, most comes out of the "oil tank"; you need two copper washers when you do attempt your oil change. Also if you don't have the valve that prevents oil from flowing with gravity if you roll the sled, attach the kill switch tether and hope you fall off and the engine stops, I hear these Nytros don't take kindly to rolling over!