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mod a XTX for mountain riding..

fr0st

Veteran
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Messages
42
hey folks,

i'm looking to put a 2" track on my xtx.. but i never did this before so i looked it up here but i had diffrents stories that it doesn't fit with or without removing the cooler and tunnel protectors and that the stock gearing is ok, and that the stock drive wheels with a 2.52 pitch fit??

anybody can clear this up ?

what i want to do is the following..

1 - get a 2" x 144" track with a 2.52 pitch from here ---> http://www.trackscanada.net/2.52-pitch-tracks.html

2- keep the stock gearing and stock drive wheels

3- get the Roest instrument panel vent and relocate the pod on the handlbar but the link seems dead on this page http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/roest-instrument-panel-vent-on-xtx-good-stuff.87117/


4- get some kind of easy way to unplug the sway bar from one side for deep powder..i saw a guy with a skidoo back country and he had that "quick connect" plug thingy to do so.



so can this be done with much trouble?? also i heard that the from drive shaft is pretty tricky to remove from the chaincase ??
 
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You *might* be able to fit a 2" track with the stock drivers, but it is going to be really tight, my 1.75 doesn't have a whole lot of room by the front exchanger. However, I would suggest getting wahl bros extroverts anyway to keep ratcheting to a minimum with that big of a track. The stock tunnel and cooler protectors definitely need to be removed unless you notch all of the lugs enough to clear them. If you are going to the mountains the gearing and clutching WILL need to be changed, stock will be too hard on the belt and clutches.

www.mountaintechindustries.com for the vent and mount. I honestly had my gauge mounted on the bars last year and am switching it back because it was harder to see when standing and riding off trail, your mileage might vary.

I have not seen any kind of quick disconnect for the sway bar, but if you do come across something, let us know. Otherwise, just carry two 12mm(?) wrenches to undo one of the bolts.

As far as the actual swap, there is a great write up here: http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/fx-nytro-track-or-gear-change.47824/
It's really not that hard, just a little time consuming your first time.
 
I also did a 2" challenger track this summer on my xtx. I removed the tunnel and cooler protectors. Found an xtx axle with 8 tooth extro drivers on this site for sale and put it in. I already was running an Ulmer clutch so I got the correct helix from Allen and was set. By going with the smaller drivers I didn't have to change any of the gearing. Good luck, it's a fun project!
 
I guess I would stay with the same pitch drivers. But other than that yes get the drivers and have them pressed on. There're certain measurements that they are to b placed at but I don't know them. I think Ulmers racing or Schmidt Bros racing can supply and press them on to ur shaft.
 
measurements.... i would guess they have to be in the right place for the track..

i'd bring the track to the place that iwould get them pressed on the shaft... they could compare and make sure there in place.

no??
 
the track doesn't matter, the lug/window spacing is pretty universal. The important part is getting them installed in the right spot for your sled to ensure that the track runs in the center of the tunnel. Ulmer can sell you a new shaft with the drivers already pressed on to make life easier.
 
I have taken my Nytro to the mountains 4 times now and we have also had a XTX with us.

On my 121 converted to 144 I am running a 2" challenger with no issues (9t whal bros extros). The tunnel protectors have been removed and I am running 19/39 gearing (so down 2 teeth). I am also running a Schmidt Bros clutch kit which makes it easy to switch between mountain and flatland weight.

The XTX had a 1.75" backcountry with stock drivers and DNF clutch kit and 20/39 gearing. The stock drivers were not a problem on the XTX. This sled has never worked to it's potential

Going with 8t extros and sticking with stock gearing would work well too. I highly recommend the Schmidt Bros kit. Ditching the DNF and getting the SBR kit made a huge difference in getting the power to the snow at altitude. I could never get the DNF kit to work just right in the Mtns.
 
anybody know the torque spec for the bolt holding the shaft/drivers assembly ??

i can't find it..in the torque specs page.. or maybe àit's got a name i can't think of ??

Also.. If i keep the stock 9T drivers.. what gearing ratio should i use ? shoud i drop 3 teeth from the top gear?? get an OEM gear of aftermarket?
 
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anybody know the torque spec for the bolt holding the shaft/drivers assembly ??

i can't find it..in the torque specs page.. or maybe àit's got a name i can't think of ??

Also.. If i keep the stock 9T drivers.. what gearing ratio should i use ? shoud i drop 3 teeth from the top gear?? get an OEM gear of aftermarket?

In my book it says 55 Nm for the bolt on the driveshaft that goes in to the track and not the shaft that goes to the secondary clutch.
 
how much would it be on the one going into the secondary clutch?

i'm installing a OEM 20T and i need that torque setting as well
 
got a question guys..

i removed my track on my xtx an getting ready to put the 2" on.

when i opened up my chain case, the lower bolt was broken.. i bought a new one as a precaution ( dealer told me they changed 4 times the design/material of this bolt) ..no biggie there..

i decided to clean the interior of the chain case with some brake fluid to inspect everything.. the lower bering .. the one in this picture got pretty noisy afterwards.. but tit's tight..no loose so technically it's not needing any replacement.. i think..

so i decided to put some oil on it to see if the noisynes would go away and it did..

my question is .. since i can't see the other side of this bearing.. does it have the plastic shield thingy on the other as well to keep the grease in?? i think with that brake fluide i might have cleaned that out and little too much... or does it lube itself with the chaincase oil ???
this is a typical pic found on the web.. not mine..
001Skjermopplsning-4.jpg
 
There should be a seal on the other side as well maybe not I have yet to change one. . With a dental pic you can pry the seal out and have a better look and clean out any metal filings that may be in there, you have to remove the snap ring to get the seal out. You can give it a shot or two of good quality grease for added measure but I think the chain case oils seeps in there. With the pic go towards the inner race and slide the pic under the seal, move it around the race and you will feel the pic drop into a small void, that is where you can start prying. Go easy because the seal is rubber coated thin steel and it will bend.
On some of the sleds I have worked on that had two rubber seals and were filled with grease, when I cleaned them I would drill very tiny holes in the seal to let gear oil get in there. Some brands sleds will have the seal on the backside and the front side open to the chain and gear oil.
 
There is a seal only on the one side of that bearing. I've seen it from the outside of the case. Lol. That wasn't so much fun
 


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