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Nytro Skid Removal Instructions


Are you talking the skid plate or the rear suspension. Rear skid or suspension has 4 bolts that need to be removed in order for to be taken out. Support the rear of the sled with a track stand or a rope from the ceiling. 1 on each side by the foot well and 1 on each side near the back need to be removed. . Lift the back of the sled in the air after the bolts are removed and take the suspension out of the track. Reverse for install , after you have the suspension back inside the track you may want to take the pressure off the torsion springs to help line up the rear suspension bolts. Install the front suspension bolts first and then do the rear bolts last. Make sure you get the bolts started good by hand to make sure you are not cross threading the bolts. It's much easier to put back in if you have a buddy to help you.

I am sure there is a complete write up on here somewhere.
 
Yes forgot that, still half a sleep . Late night in the shop. I bet there is info in the FAQ section at the top of the page.
 
I also find it easier to release the torsion springs and once it is unbolted I push the front of the skid as close to the drive shaft as I can (usually such that the top of the front torsion arm is above the drive shaft and the rail tips are below...essentially push the limiter straps into the drive shaft. I think you may have to lower the front first in order to clear rivets) in order to free up some room so that I can wrestle the rear of skid free of the track. Having said that I make sure the front of the sled is high enough for the top of front torsion bar to clear the tunnel.
 
Whats the easiest way to realease the torsion springs, then, whats the best way to re-tension them back up (before you rebolt the skid in or after?)

Also, should you compress the suspension and ratchet strap-it down making it easier to put in/out, or does this skid wiggle out okay?

MS
 
For the torsion springs I always undo the bolt and take it off that way . It will hang down. I do this before I try and bolt it up and after it is in the track. If the springs are released and hanging it will fight you trying to get it in or out of the track. Do the torsion springs last after you have the bolts in the rear skid arm. You might have to put a ratchet strap on to get the holes to line up. Sometimes the hole is forward and just lifting the torsion arm and putting tension on it will push the skid arm back and into place.
 
Sevey said:
Whats the easiest way to realease the torsion springs, then, whats the best way to re-tension them back up (before you rebolt the skid in or after?)

Also, should you compress the suspension and ratchet strap-it down making it easier to put in/out, or does this skid wiggle out okay?

MS

I just lift the rear of the skid in the air enough for the long arm to clear when you release it, then I push the plastic piece ahead, then I push
the long arm of the torsion spring up pulling out at the same time (to clear the idler wheel) and let it go easily. This takes a bit of strength and may be difficult if you've upgraded to stiffer tornsion springs. I've also used a breaker bar to help lifting the torsion spring.

Just do the opposite to put it back together.

When I put the skid back in, I leave the torsion springs released and you can fairly easily manipulate the suspension. I've never used a strap to compress anything when I'm putting the skid into the tunnel. It can be a little challenging to get the front bolts lined up but can be done. I put a bar under the skid itself and lifting the front of the skid and pushing/pulling the rear of the skid has always worked (note you need to have the front of the suspension in the correct place wrt the rivets around the tunnel stiffeners for this to work).

With the torsion springs released I generally don't have to use ratchet straps to get the rear bolts lined up; however, if you use a ratchet strap for help this is when you will need it based on my experience (I have used one a few times). The only thing to make sure when you use a ratchet strap are that you set it up on moveable suspensions points (I managed to not do this once) and to make sure you have enough room to release the strap when you are done (otherwise you will have to cut it).

I've pulled the skid a lot of different ways....on two strokes, I usually roll the sled on the side and find it much easier. I always do the Nytro upright and find the hardest part getting the skid out of the track. (Note: I always pull/install the skid by myself).

Hope this helps....
 
So you release the sping on its long end that goes down to the slide rail beside the idler and release it there???
My springs are stock but it still sounds like a wrestling match....

So you dont bother releasing the spring where it sits on the cam?
Thanks
Ms
 
they are connected and you have a much better mechanical advantage with the longer arm so......if you release the long arm at the idler wheel and allow it to flip around you have effectively removed the torsion spring. I couldn't imagine releasing it at the cam....
 
I just used a rachet strap and compressed the skid then slowly released it. Reverse for assembly. Just release slowly to align the rear holes.
 
Hey guys
Looked closer to the long end of the torsion spring that is held in the steel loop by the idler wheel.
It looks impossible to release the spring without unbolting the loop that holds it to the skid.

Amateur question I know, but would love to have this qualified.

Thanks
Ms
 
Sevey said:
Hey guys
Looked closer to the long end of the torsion spring that is held in the steel loop by the idler wheel.
It looks impossible to release the spring without unbolting the loop that holds it to the skid.

Amateur question I know, but would love to have this qualified.

Thanks
Ms
The spring loop will rotate forward, then lift it off and over the idler wheel.
 
I do unbolt the spring retainer. You can hold the spring in place with one arm and put the bolt back in during reassembly. It's not as hard as you think.
 


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