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**Official Clutch Rattle Removal Thread w/ Pics**


So, after talking a little more with the plater here's what I am going to attempt to do.

1. Use modeling clay to make a female mold of the crank and its splines
2. Use the mold to make a blank of the crank and crank splines
3. Send the stub shaft and blank to the plater
4. Plater is experianced with plating splines to repair wear so he knows what to measure to determine plating thicknesses needed.
5. Plate stub shaft splines to calculated thickness with hard chrome
6. Measure, trial fit blank andn replate until reaching the desired fit
7. Trial on sled to determine if fix works.

He is willing to do this first one for around $150. If it works I will do a similar write-up to Beenba's as to how to make the crank blank and all other steps to the process. If it works he is saying that future jobs would all be one-off jobs as well but that they would not be more than $250 each.

Mills
 
^sounds pretty cool. Keep us posted!

Supa Dexta said:
I still say go back to square one.. It was stated originally that some guys in norway had this done on turbo sleds, and were a couple of years into it.

Your right, I keep forgetting about the Wurth bearing retainer LOL. I'm going to try that 1st. Good call.
 
Belzona compound - will it work?!?!?!?!!!

Sorry if this is posted more than once. I have tried to post this info several times but my system keeps crashing.

I did more online searching for spline set repairs and found Belzona products. These compounds are designed specifically for repairing worn and/or out-of-spec spline sets. I contacted the local dealer and talked to them for quite awhile. They have successfully repaired the splined drive line components in bulldozers, Harely drive trains, drive line comoponent in mfg equip and more. The salesman/technician I was talking to repaired his buddies Harely primary clutch system (very similar to the Nytro crank/stub shaft setup) after the dealer to him he needed a new crank to fix the problem. The buddy reportedly has 20,000+ miles on the repair wiith no problems.

I have tried to attach the PDF tech sheets for the 1111 compound but it is not working so here is a link to their website:
<http://belzona.com/>

The dealer is going to send me a free sample of the materials needed (I work for a company that my use a lot of this suff so I was able to bargin for some free material). I hope to get it, apply it and let it cure, then ride alittle and report back before the snow around here is gone.
 
Belzona Tech sheets attached.

Well I got my text reply to post now I hope this one with the tech sheets attached works.
 

Attachments

  • Belzona 1111.pdf
    303.4 KB · Views: 520
  • Belzona 1111 Use Instructions MPT05.pdf
    216.8 KB · Views: 169
  • Belzona 1111.pdf
    303.4 KB · Views: 266
  • Belzona Accessories.pdf
    129.4 KB · Views: 231
I researched that belzona awhile back as i stated in previos post, it sounds like some brutal stuff for spline repair, As Mills stated it works on bulldozer splines etc, If anyone can find it for under 90.00 dollars a pound, or in smaller portions, let me know.
 
Id just be worried you would never get it apart, and also its use under constant heat cycles and oil bath.

I looked at the sheets and it seems very similar to the loctite 600 series I have tired, but sounds like it can fill a much larger gap (so it might work). Keep us posted!
 
The sales/tech rep assurse me that if you use the Belzona accessory release agent on the crank it will make the stub shaft as servicable as it is now. The release agent can also be put on in multiple coats to act as a control to the "Lash" between the shaft and coupling splines. So if you want 0.008" lash between them you coat the crank two times. the release agent goes on at about 0.004" per coat.
 
About a month ago I took out my stub shaft out of sled and was hoping to peen the splines alittle for a tighter fit, but couldnt make a mark on splines as they are so hard, so i just cleaned up splines and JB welded them, I finally put clutch on sled today in 99 degree heat, I fired up sled and Wow what a difference, sled is so quiet ,cant believe its the same motor, Its how the Yamaha nytro motor should sound, I know it wont last and the noise will return, I still think if a person could peen or fudge up the splines alittle to make things fit alittle tighter everyone would have a great sounding nytro motor. Im might try taking a dremel tool after the jb weld brakes loose and take a 1 inch cutoff wheel and go into the stub shaft splines{clutch side} and cut across the splines, this might leave just enough burrs on splines to tighten things up????? God i love how this motor sounds now, even quiet without side panels on :Rockon:
 
Giving this thread a bump to see if anyone had found something that works. Would love to do this after this riding season.
 
after fixing the exhaust donuts in my sled it is WAY quieter to the point that the clutch noise doesn't really bother me. I do have the Belmont material and would like to offer it for free to anyone that would like to try it. If it works I would probably use it on my sled. For now I am concerned that if it didn't work and breaks down like other products it would end up as particulate in the engine. This stuff is impregnated with metal so I am hesitant to use it for that reason.
 
after fixing the exhaust donuts in my sled it is WAY quieter to the point that the clutch noise doesn't really bother me. I do have the Belmont material and would like to offer it for free to anyone that would like to try it. If it works I would probably use bmp it on my sled. For now I am concerned that if it didn't work and breaks down like other products it would end up as particulate in the engine. This stuff is impregnated with metal so I am hesitant to use it for that reason.
 
after fixing the exhaust donuts in my sled it is WAY quieter to the point that the clutch noise doesn't really bother me. I do have the Belmont material and would like to offer it for free to anyone that would like to try it. If it works I would probably use bmp it on my sled. For now I am concerned that if it didn't work and breaks down like other products it would end up as particulate in the engine. This stuff is impregnated with metal so I am hesitant to use it for that reason.
 
Does anybody know if you change to a new part 8GL-11406-00. Does this fix the rattling??
 
I know of a Yamaha dealer that used som kind of coating on the splines on two or three engines as a test and they all broke down. i dont have the exact details but i think the coating released and damaged something. so it was a expensive experiment for them.
 


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