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**Official Clutch Rattle Removal Thread w/ Pics**

I just replaced my stub shaft after I had the bearing go out, I would be careful on what you put on them so they come apart just in case a bearing goes out like I had on mine. And no mine still rattles with the new part in. Mine has about 8300 miles for reference too, not sure why it failed. Seal was off and only had half the ball bearings left in the bearing once I got the primary off. It had a nice vibration to it :jump:
 

The only proven product that works so I have heard is the Wurth Bearing Retainer.

I called the rep here in Canada, and they have never heard of it...I even gave them the part number....so I gave up and have been living with it this season.

Wurth Canada must not share any connections with wurth USA is all I can assume.

If someone has a tube or access to buy one, I would gladly pay them (paypal) and shipping to get it across the border.....just let me know.
 
I ordered a comfort clutch kit from Schmidt bros and they are including a quiet kit to help with the rattle. They said it doesn't get rid of all of it but about 80% of it. It's a similar fix as the o ring but works better. I'll post results after I install it. Could be a couple weeks though if it doesn't get here before I leave for a 5 day ride on Wednesday.
 
Yea the I rings do help some, I still have them on mine (I replace them every year cause they start to crack and fatigue) but on some sleds the splines are pretty loose which contributes to 80% of the rattle.

I still remember how nice it sounded when my rattle was 100% gone. I'd like to try the wurth stuff before I go more extravagant with a permanent mechanical solution.
 
I tired 680, 640, and lastly 648. 648 has a strongest breaking strength of the entire 600 series of loctites, and can fill a pretty large gap.

None worked for more than 200km. The constant shocking of the engine pulses and snappy-ness of these sleds, guess it couldn't handle it.

I did however mean to apply the 648 again and let it sit all summer (but of course I forgot :drink: ) to potentially rule out insufficient cure time, maybe I'll do it this summer.
 
mics said:
How about Loctite 660 + 7649 has anyone tried that???

This rattling noise is unbelievable disturbing and such a disaster coming from Yamaha, one
of the greatest engine manufacturers.
How can this be possible??? :die

(If i had knew about this rattling, i´d considered buying another sled)
 
I took the clutch apart to inspect and clean it the other day. The fly weight bolts tightens up on the sleeve and the sleeve and bolt slides back and forth in the clutch half. I ground the end of the sleeve until there was just a small amount of end play. This allows the sleeve to turn in the clutch half like it would have before. I also changed the chain tensioner and exhaust donuts. Center donut was toast so some noise mite have been caused caused by this. Have not had a chance to go for a ride yet.
 
Guys:

X2 on Beenba's comments.....its a design flaw that isn't really fixable. Basically the power pulses of the engine between cylinder firing are to blame. You can read all about it in the article below where they were mating a Hyabusa engine to a Miata, and what happened when the forgot about crank oscillations.

Project Miatabusa Part 16

The spline acts just like a tight fitting gear, if you want to think of it that way, and the looser the fit, the more rattle you will get. The only way to eliminate it is to go to a solid crank (no spline like the Arctic Cat 1100) or a mechanical damper which has springs or a viscous damper).

The good news is the belt drives on our sleds do act like a damper and get rid of 99% of those vibes when engaged and under power, but at low RPM and low speed/load, the rattle sneaks through.

Manuf. clearances vary so its very sled specific too, my 10 xtx was barely noticeable @ 5000 miles and my 11 Mtx was very noisy brand new!

Small hole.....big ship!

OTM
 
Well. I have tried several Wurth and Loctite products as described.
Nothing lasted!
Today i took a grinder and grinded a groove in both the crank and hub, together making a hole.
This hole was perfect to pressfit a splint. Had to press the hub back on the crank.
This is now a solution only consisting on metal parts, so i hope it will last!
Now it purrs like a kitten!
 

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Well. I have tried several Wurth and Loctite products as described.
Nothing lasted!
Today i took a grinder and grinded a groove in both the crank and hub, together making a hole.
This hole was perfect to pressfit a splint. Had to press the hub back on the crank.
This is now a solution only consisting on metal parts, so i hope it will last!
Now it purrs like a kitten!
you are willing to risk ruining a $3500 usd motor to get rid of a idle rattle?
idk about that, grinding on the crank and hub and wedging a shear pin in there to get rid of a small rattle at idle seems a bit excessive and crazy to me.
 
you are willing to risk ruining a $3500 usd motor to get rid of a idle rattle?
idk about that, grinding on the crank and hub and wedging a shear pin in there to get rid of a small rattle at idle seems a bit excessive and crazy to me.
The grinding does not affect anything. I can remove the pin and install without it. The pin is supposed to go in a smaller hole and crimp. That is why it is made of spring steel.
I have 30 years of experience as a mechanic and is confident in my work
This solution seems to work, but it is not for everyone to execute.
 
The grinding does not affect anything. I can remove the pin and install without it. The pin is supposed to go in a smaller hole and crimp. That is why it is made of spring steel.
I have 30 years of experience as a mechanic and is confident in my work
This solution seems to work, but it is not for everyone to execute.

did you balance the crank assembly after? changing the weight balance of the crank you grinded on without balancing your rotating assembly and adding spring steel into the mix of a 9k rpm crank is very risky to just get rid of a very small accoustic issue.
 


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