• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Oft relocate install?

WINDER1987

TY 4 Stroke Guru
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
867
Location
Upstate NY
Hi guys I'm I stalling this but am a little confused on the bottom of the steering post do I have this right? It is turning extremely hard with the skis in the air on the lift?
And is it necessary to relocate the throttle cable? It doesn't look fun in the directions lol
Thanks
IMG_20150316_153205667.jpg
IMG_20150316_153156076.jpg
 

Did you bend the studs?
The pic looks like you have the blocks upside down. One is square (top) and the other has an angle (bottom). If the blocks are not flat against the base then you have it wrong.
Look your blocks over, and then read the directions again.
 
One looks thicker should that one be on the bottom? That's how I had it to start with but it wouldn't lay flat like the directions said
 
Last edited:
As I remember I do believe the thicker one goes on the bottom. If you look at the end of it you will see that one side has an angle to it. If you work with it you will get it to lay flat. But you do need to bend the studs to the right angle. Just make sure you have the fat side of the block up.
 
If its turning hard it must be binding. Like the earlier comment, the block that is 'machined on an angle' goes on the bottom. Follow the instructions using a 10mm deep socket to gently bend the studs forward - so the blocks slide-on and line up.

As for the throttle cable, I am pretty sure it has to be re-routed. Its not the big of deal, just follow the instructions. The cable un-snaps into the plastic throttle to disassemble.

When realigning the tie rod, the ball joint at the end is held into the bottom of the steering column via a 'wedge fitting'. Once the nut and cotterpin are off some guys have no problem getting it to come out. i was not so lucky. Mine was seized into place. Dont start beating it cause you can easily damage the threads (dont ask me how i know this). I ended up using a heat gun and getting it super hot - using a small pry bar, and prying down - then wrapping the bar with a hammer I was able to get it to fall out. This was supposed to be the easy part of the job but it didnt work out that way. Cost me a days ride. Hope it doesnt happen to you.
MS
 
Hey guys thanks for the help I just didn't bend the studs far enough back went together very smoothly after that throttle cable was also a breeze to do.
Does the tie rod need to be adjusted after every installation of this I thought it said in the directions only sometimes but I could be wrong. How do you know if it needs to be adjusted or not?
 
You might experience some binding in the upper mount too if you crank it down.

You'll know if you need to adjust it if your bars are straight and your skis are turned, or vice versa. In my case, I was fine with both sleds which had the relocate.
 
I had to adjust my steering linkage a bit to make my skis match my bars after my install. Not too hard as long as you have a set of stubby wrenches. Turn your skis all the way to the left to reach the rear lock nut. If you still can't get it take out the two small bolts on the cpu unit and set it down on the bottom. Then you will have lots of room to work.
If they are a little off it will feel wierd on the trails.
 
IMG_20150317_145835361_HDR.jpg

Hey guys how does this look to u i cant tell the skis look straight to me but I've never had any luck hanging pictures lol
 
Ok so I got it back together what should the Nytro be idling at when warmed up? When I turn the bars to the right I'm fine but when u turn it to the left the rpms surge but when I adjust the cable I get an error code?
 
you have a problem with the cable it is getting pulled when you turn and will activate the tors. may just have to pull up some slack by the bars.
 
I think I have it squared away I hope but in order to get it so rpms don't surge and I don't have an error code I'm idling at about 1650 in my heated garage does that sound ok?
 
I think I have it squared away I hope but in order to get it so rpms don't surge and I don't have an error code I'm idling at about 1650 in my heated garage does that sound ok?
Yup, that is fine. Heated garages make them run slightly atypical at first. Theyre technically cold when starting, but not so cold that the red "warm up" light is on, makes the fuel injection try to figure out the situation.
 
sure clutches dont engage for quite some rpms yet but i still am concerned if the throttle cable is getting pulled it may have an effect while ridding and lets say you come into a corrner and are giving it some throttle and you trun the bars and it pulls it a little and now it effects how much power is put to the track. please be carefull till you know how it is going to act.
 


Back
Top