The screw on the front sides of the gas tank that holds the panel in place. The nut that is molded into the tank is turning and I cannot remove the screw. Anyone have this problem and come up with a solution to stop the nut from turning. This is a 2007 Apex.
May just leave it and peel the body panel off from the screw head but really don't want to do that.
May just leave it and peel the body panel off from the screw head but really don't want to do that.
Might be kinda hard to do without damaging the panel, but you could try using a dremel tool to grind the head off the screw. You'd have to be pretty careful in order to avoid heating the screw ... grind a little, stop to let the screw cool down, repeat ... until the head is removed. With the panel removed, you might be able to remove the rest of the screw, along with the nut if the screw is seized, with something like an easy-out if you can keep the nut from turning in the tank.
That's the biggest problem, the nut is turning that is molded into the tank :-(
If you can get the screw and the loose nut out, you could then try installing a new nut by doing a little plastic welding with a solder iron. There are guys on this site that have repaired tanks this way. You just have to be really careful ... make sure the tank is bone dry.
RTX
TY 4 Stroke God
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2006 apex rtx
Winderallday!
VIP Member
Just an idea, as I recall the gas tank for the 07 vintage Apex, the threaded brass insert is embedded in the plastic gas tank when they blow mold it, usually, these have a knurled pattern on the outside to allow the plastic to grip and hold it in place after cooling.
If memory serves, there is an exposed rounded emboss of the plastic tank around this insert where you could drill a small hole ), say 1/8" or so, near the end of the brass insert through the plastic emboss and slightly into the brass piece.
This would allow you to insert a pin through the hole to engage the brass insert (could insert the 1/8" drill bit by hand, shank end first) to keep it from rotating while you try and remove the screw/bolt. You could make up a pin and leave it installed in the drilled hole to keep it from rotating permanently and/or fill the drilled hole with epoxy. For what this fastener is doing, you could just leave the screw out, the panel it's holding probably isn't going anywhere.
The style of these panel fasteners are similar to a shoulder bolt, and they can torque up really tight and be difficult to "break" free especially with a phillips head driver. In some cases in other locations, I had to use a center punch and hammer to loosen these screws out with a shock type blow vs brute force with a screw driver.
On the 11+ models they have used hex head style fasteners vs phillips which are much better and would make sense to replace if your phillips heads are stripped.
I would avoid heating the bolt and brass, as this will for sure turn the plastic surrounding the brass insert to mush no to mention possibly creating a hole/leak.
Cheers.
If memory serves, there is an exposed rounded emboss of the plastic tank around this insert where you could drill a small hole ), say 1/8" or so, near the end of the brass insert through the plastic emboss and slightly into the brass piece.
This would allow you to insert a pin through the hole to engage the brass insert (could insert the 1/8" drill bit by hand, shank end first) to keep it from rotating while you try and remove the screw/bolt. You could make up a pin and leave it installed in the drilled hole to keep it from rotating permanently and/or fill the drilled hole with epoxy. For what this fastener is doing, you could just leave the screw out, the panel it's holding probably isn't going anywhere.
The style of these panel fasteners are similar to a shoulder bolt, and they can torque up really tight and be difficult to "break" free especially with a phillips head driver. In some cases in other locations, I had to use a center punch and hammer to loosen these screws out with a shock type blow vs brute force with a screw driver.
On the 11+ models they have used hex head style fasteners vs phillips which are much better and would make sense to replace if your phillips heads are stripped.
I would avoid heating the bolt and brass, as this will for sure turn the plastic surrounding the brass insert to mush no to mention possibly creating a hole/leak.
Cheers.
Winderallday!
VIP Member
That's the biggest problem, the nut is turning that is molded into the tank :-(
I like your thinking. Going to go with that, unless something else comes to mind by January
I like your thinking. Going to go with that, unless something else comes to mind by January
Any updates on repair?
I usually get them out by using an automotive door panel tool to put significant outward pressure on the screw and nut. It seems to help hold the nut to break the screw loose.
Have been away and not worked on the Apex for a bit.
Going to try a couple of the ideas written here and if they don't
work, will leave it be. Will cut the panel to clip into the stick screw.
Going to try a couple of the ideas written here and if they don't
work, will leave it be. Will cut the panel to clip into the stick screw.
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
You could try using CA glue (Krazy glue) around the nut as a last resort. It generally doesn't stick to polyethylene without flame treating but it's worth a try. Soak it with penetrating oil after applying the glue.
