Skid Removal, 2014 Nytro XTX

[SchelT]

Posting this thread looking for mechanical advice. I'm going to install a Star Suspensions Linkage kit on my 2014 Nytro XTX. Instructions say the kit CAN be installed without removing the suspension or entire skid. I've contacted Robert and he was very helpful. It seems to me the job would be much easier if the skid was removed and out in the open. So my plan is to do just that...remove the skid / suspension and install the kit on a bench.

What I need help with from fellow readers is a step by step, from beginning to end, instructions on removing the skid and reinstalling. I have average to above average mechanical skills and a good set of tools. No shop, just my garage. In Arizona there are no snowmobile dealers that I know of that could do the work for me. So I need to step up to the task

Please be VERY DETAILED. Leave out nothing, even if it seems like common sense. I hope to be able to print any responses so I don't have to keep running in and out of the garage to read on the computer. Let me know if any special tools are required. Thank you for reading this post.

 

[R00STER]

There are a lot of posts on this if you search.
If you are a mechanical guy you will find it way easy. The only trick is having a couple ratchet straps to use.
Elevate the rear of the machine to a nice working height.
Loosen up track tensioners all the way
Use ratchet straps to compress front and rear shocks. ( taking preload off front helps a lot)
Take out rear skid bolts first, then the fronts
Wiggle skid out of track
It really is easy to do if you make the room by compressing the skid!
Reverse procedure to reinstall
Oh ya, I put a couple 1" steel poles I had laying around between the track and skid to assist on sliding the skid without it hanging up on the track nubs.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

I took my skid out and re -installed last night. Everyone has their own method that works for them. Here is what I did (not saying it is right or the easiest, but it works for me).
I used a chain block to lift on the rear bumper.
Loosen the rear tensioner bolts to loosen track
Loosen all four suspension bolts. Do not take out because you want to make sure they will all spin out. Sometimes the shaft will spin on one side and you have to re install and tighten opposite side bolt to prevent shaft from spinning. Impact gun solves that problem if you have one.
I adjust the weight on the skid using the chain block so when you remove the bolts there is no pressure on the bolts upon removal. Pressure on the bolts will cantilever them and won't come out easily and can damage threads etc. I like the bolts to come straight out.
Once the bolts are out, lift on the chain block until the rear dropdown brackets clear the suspension. The front a arm should also be clear of the tunnel.
Push the suspension toward the skis to so the rear wheels clear the nubs on the track.
Lift out the real of the skid and shake it out sidways to clear the track nubs. This requires wiggling and shaking and it finally comes out.

Re-install
Place the skid with the a arms first and roll it into the front of the tunnel
Lift the rear of the skid and place it over the track nubs to get it into position
This will require pulling back on the track to stretch it out and you will need to wiggle it in there. Sometimes this part is a pain in the arse, but you will get it in there eventually. Shake it up.
Place all your bolts close to your bolt holes along with your ratchet close to you at all times. There are times where you have the suspension holes lined up with your one hand while laying on the floor and your bolts are nowhere to be seen.
Lower your bumper until the front a arm is relatively close to lining up. You may need to lay on the floor and apply a little hand pressure on the a arm or foot pressure on the rear wheel to line up the hole (while laying on the floor).
Install the bolts when they are lined up. I use blue loctite on the threads. Last night I didn't because I ran out of loctite.
Lower or raise the rear bumper until the rear shaft is close to lining up with the drop brackets.
The rear shaft on mine is usually behind the drop bracket hole and needs to be pulled forward
I get two ratchet straps and hook one end to the front suspension (shock a a arm). I use a running board hole, but I have aftermarket running boards with big holes so a hook goes right in there.
Place the other end of the ratchet strap around the rear shaft (over the big spring) and place strap closest to the big upper wheel. Place the hook around the strap so it "chokes" the shaft
Start ratcheting on the strap to tighten and the shaft hole will move forward (toward the skis) and will line up with the drop bracket hole.
You may need to adjust the rear bumper up or down to line it up.
Install the bolt until it is in and screw it in a little bit
Do the same with the ratchet strap on the other side and install the bolt and tighten them pretty tight.

Tighten up your track to your desired spec. I run mine really loose, but it is an MTX 153.
Line up the track nubs with the slider. I just stick my finger in between and check both sides near the rear of the skid until it feels even. Tighten or loosen one side after spinning the track slow to get proper alignment.
That's about it.

Sometimes it fits like a glove and install is a joke. Sometimes it is a pain in the arse and you wonder how you did it so easily the last time and vice/versa.

Hope this helps...

 

[brs077]

"Use ratchet straps to compress front and rear shocks."

Wish I had thought of that when I did mine!

One note I will add is that I had issues with a couple bolts loosening on me after a few hundred miles. I went back through with loctite after that. Just a thought you may want to consider. Nearly lost an idler wheel and, wprse, the aluminum spacer.

 

[SchelT]

I hope Fox makes the new (Viper) QS3 Zero shocks available for our Nytro