Sway bar ?'s

[tdog1225]

can someone remind me again on which hole gives more sled roll. The front hole or the lower back one. Don't have time to get rid of it completely yet. Thanks

 

[canoehead]

Rear hole is softer I believe.

 

[gc_srt]

Have you tried a sawsall to remove the sway bar? It's pretty quick with that method.

 

[m.schuey7]

I cant remember which hole is stiffer. If you want you can test the effects of it installed or not by simply taking some tools a long on your next ride. Ride a bit with it hooked up as usual, then unbolt the link and complete remove it on one side. Ride again.
Depending on your front shock setup you may not like the way the chassis performs with no bar. Generally need a much stiffer shock and spring setup to run properly with no bar.

You can use a saw to remove it very quickly as stated above, took me about an hour to remove it w/out cutting it but it was a pain in the #*$&@ to do.

 

[gc_srt]

I tried to remove it the proper way but you have to heat the heck out of the bolts before you remove them. There is one bolt that is acceptable under the skid plate and the second between the sway bar and the motor. Use lots of heat before you try to unthread them. I ended stripping the bolt on one making it impossible to remove the sway bar without damage. I like the way it is now but I am running Fox Floats at 40psi.

 

[TLM]

Would there be any advantage in your guys opinion to removing or softening the swaybar for trail applications? Or is this better suited for deeper powder off trail applications?

 

[m.schuey7]

I ride mostly trail and very much like the handling with the sway bar removed. I run the JRE Spindle with Fox Evol front shocks, I run 80psi in the main chamber which is more air than I used with the bar connected. (disconnecting the sway bar softens the overall spring rate of the front suspension) So you will want to use more air or spring rate. The sled handled much better on trail w/out the bar connected with my setup, better control in the bumps and an overall smoother ride.

 

[TLM]

I trail ride a lot of wooded areas with twists in the trails, and some tighter corners. I have the gytr clicker shocks and have most of the spring preload let off on the shocks. I was concerned that with the sway bar out, I may experience more ski lift on the inside ski as I come out of the turns. My logic may be flawed as last year was my first year back on a sled in about 15 yrs......

 

[m.schuey7]

TLM,
I think you would want to go the other way with your spring preload, tight as it will go and turn your compression knob full still, rebound in the middle, the stock GYTR is sprung and valved much to soft in my opinion. From what I've learned on the JRE website you want to try to achieve a "nose up attitude" with the Nytro chassis. Have my XTX setup close the the JRE setup and it is a dream to ride compared to stock. Disconnecting the sway bar while using the stock GYTR's probably isn't a good idea.

 

[gc_srt]

For trail riding, I wouldn't recommend removing the sway bar. It helps throwing the sled around offtrail. Tdog1225 has a 2" challenger so I assume he doesn't do too much trail riding.

 

[TLM]

Thats kind of what I was thinking as far as the sway bar goes, but I am interested in the JRE info on the nytro. Do you have a link or website address? Also, thanks for the info and letting me interject a little on this thread!

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Softening the front is what everyone's done with stock to lower the nose, jre lowered it 1.5" with the spindle so you need to stiffen the shakes to get nose back up and get ride height as well as longer shocks help. Www.jresport.com

Idk if no sway at would be good on trail but I've contemplated that idea myself. Snox sleds seem to be without them but are also manhandled a lot more than most trail sleds. The cross country teams seem to run them still.

 

[m.schuey7]

What I learned from many back to back tests on my rides,
(removing the sway bar link, riding an hour or so, hooking it back up..........etc)
Disconnecting the bar softens the front suspension about 30-40% (near as I can tell by the seat of my pants) Once I increase the spring rate to match the loss of the bar things started to fall into place. Something to keep in mind is that if you have the sway bar connected you now have eliminated your independent suspension. With the bar disconnected and the front spring stiffer you have now achieved a fully independent suspension that has the ability to control all the forces at hand. I found with this setup that my XTX rode smoother in all conditions and pointed much easier when entering turns.
So to summarize, if you have your front shock valving and spring rates correct you may not need to use a sway bar.

 

[gc_srt]

I ran with the sway bar disconnected on one side for a season and the problem is that it's never fully disconnected. It runs fully disconnected on one side but its only partially disconnected on the other side. It works well for basic testing but doesn't provide the full story. The problem is that once the suspension compresses on the connected side, you starts to effect the other side even through its disconnected because the sway bar is above the a-arms. Other sleds have the sway bar mounted above the suspension where disconnects can easily be used.

 

[m.schuey7]

Removing the link and riding was meant to test the setup, not meant for long term use, sorry I wasn't clear on that.
Riding with the link removed and the bar removed produced the same results for me but like was said above if you like the way it feels with the link removed then its time to remove the bar.