Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

[Redbeard]

Instead of modifying the headlight bracket like I originally planned (page 13, post 187), I made this bracket to hold both rear shock solenoids and the primary ski shock solenoid (pointing straight up). It mounts to the headlight bracket with M6 bolts and M6 nuts that I tig welded to the under side. A 10mm socket will remove the solenoids, while a 9/16' wrench will loosen the air lines.

 

[Redbeard]

The new ski shock air lines are temporarily in place! The schrader valves on the front shocks were removed and replaced with 1/8" pipe street 90's. I'm pretty happy with the way everything has turned out so far!

Next step is to finish the wiring, then powder coat the parts before final assembly.

"HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL OF YOU!"

 

[Redbeard]

I'm getting ready to start terminating wires for both control switches. I'm using a Deutsch brand connector here since there are so many wires in such a small area. I need to set aside an entire day to complete the wiring and get it covered with flex loom.

 

[Agman 57]

Evening Joe, caught you on here! Thanks for the Pic today. I'll write you tomorrow.
Question, I don't see any PSI gauges? are you mounting them somewhere so you can monitor what you are doing?

 

[Redbeard]

Dan, there is one air pressure gauge for the entire system mounted to my Lake Effect riser. If I need to check the air pressure in the front shocks, I'll just push the "front" switch. This will open the ski shock solenoids and the gauge will display the pressure. Same for the rear, except the gauge will balance out with the air pressure in the rear shock.

Here's a pic from last year. I've since powder coated the riser white:

 

[Agman 57]

Well that makes me feel better, knowing that you have a gauge to monitor what is going on.
I couldn't think you would have gone to all this much work and not have a gauge to let you know what was going on.

 

[Redbeard]

Control switches are mounted and ready to plug into the sled. The left switch is the front/rear selector and the the right switch is the (+) or (-) selector. The (+) or (-) will not activate unless I push the front/rear switch at the same time. I did this to keep anything from turning on in case I accidentally bump a switch. Both switches are momentary; let go of one or both and everything shuts off. If I need to remove this console from the sled for whatever reason, I simply unplug the connector, just like the key switch and 12 volt outlet connectors.

Sorry, everything is dusty!

 

[Redbeard]

Working on more wiring this morning.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Joe,

The work you have put into this is "Ridiculously Nice"!!

Thanks for posting up all the pics! It's fun to follow along with the progression!

 

[Redbeard]

All the wiring on the sled is in place, just need to snap a few more connectors in place and wrap everything in flex loom. Hopefully I'll get test the entire system this week - fingers crossed!

 

[Soldier'spapa]

How long till you get to try it out on the trail??

 

[Redbeard]

How long till you get to try it out on the trail??

I'm a month away from being able to head north. I'm so far behind on everything...arggg! Honestly, Im hoping to get a 6" + snow at home to run in the fields before I head north.

In the meantime, I'm hoping to fully test the air system on the stand later this week. After that, I'll remove all the brackets I made and powder coat them. The front A-arms are also coming off to be re-coated in white to match the bumpers, etc.

 

[Redbeard]

I tested the air system today and everything seems to be working! I have one air leak at a fitting where the rear shock hose connects to the solenoids, but I'll fix that when I pull everything back apart for powder coat. I'll post up more pics as I get parts powder coated.

 

[Redbeard]

The wiring is very simple on paper, but actually took 2 days to fish everything under the hood, cut, splice and crimp all the plug terminals. Plug connectors weren't necessary, but I wanted to un-plug any component I added for quick service or replacement. I didn't throw away the wiring harness I started with last year, but spliced into it by soldering and covering the connections with double lined heat shrink tubing. This tubing has a heat activated adhesive inside that melts and makes a permanent connection that's not easily removed.

Here is the revised electrical schematic since I added extra solenoids to the system:

 

[Redbeard]

New solenoid brackets and the headlight bracket got powder coated this morning. I decided to leave the two aluminum ski solenoid brackets natural for now. I tig welded bolts to the compressor mounting bracket I made last year, so it got re-coated as well. Now a wrench isn't needed on the back side of the bolts that hold the compressor and left ski solenoid in place. I'm trying to make everything as easy to work on as possible.