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To Break in or Beat in - That is the question

I broke my Warrior in by the book more or less, lots of full throttle and let off but stayed within their rpm recommendations sort of. Uses 250 mil in 3,000 miles With 18,000 miles on it I don't see a problem here! Motor does not burn oil past the rings is sucks the oil mist it into the airbox on long hard full throttle runs, on the Apex they changed the crankcase breather system and oil mist is no longer or much less of it is pulled into the airbox.

My Apex was broke in the same way and with 6,000 miles on it I have yet to add oil between oil changes. Note I say broke in because I did not beat it in. I know the poster says beat in but that is not what is being done. You are breaking it in hard the way it should be done! I think the poster means the way many look at the process and if they are the baby it crown then it would seem like beating on the motor.

Quotes from Motoman

Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".

Now on Dyno runs note it reads a lot like Yamaha's recommendations where I think they are a little conservative they do not say baby it but they do say varied throttle with no full throttle over so much rpm. So I take it to say below that rpm is good. I read between the lines and pushed it a tad!

I grew up with motor vehicles in the late 60's early 70's beside my Father that was/is a Mechanic both heavy and light equipment. We rebuilt a couple engines together and his advice was very similar to Motomans. Hit it let off, hit it let off over and over never traveling the same speed for any distance and increasing the throttle travel and RPM attained as I went along. My small block Dodge ran strong for 100,000 miles.

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

His recommendation for bikes!

The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration.

So you are not beating on it. I agree babying it is not the way to break it in but pinning it across a lake and holding it to the bar is not the way as well. I like how TD Max says it "Lather, rinse, repeat. Just avoid excessive RPM and severe load during this process". Good advice in one short sentence! I'd hate for someone to ride it like they stole it and hold it to the bar for 20 miles.
 

I only used this method with our new Montana van in '08. Peeled it right out of the dealer lot. Scared my wife too. Still have it and it uses little oil between oil changes. I also use magnets on everything I own with an oil filter. I use old hard drive magnets. Super powerful and they stay put.
 
...... I also use magnets on everything I own with an oil filter. I use old hard drive magnets. Super powerful and they stay put.

You might want to elaborate a little........I'm guessing not everyone who reads this is a gearhead...........
 
Basically the same idea as the Filtermags mentioned earlier, I just put them on the outside of the filter directly.
 
Basically the same idea as the Filtermags mentioned earlier, I just put them on the outside of the filter directly.

I know why you do it.......I made the suggestion in case some weren't performance car etc. oriented...........
 
I know why you do it.......I made the suggestion in case some weren't performance car etc. oriented...........


Ahh I read something wrong but I'll answer the question! If you put a strong magnet on the side of the filter the metallic bits get stuck to the inside of the filter instead of circulating through the motor. The oil filter will trap down to so many microns but the finer stuff gets through the filter. Its just a bit of insurance. Its not like the is a ton of ferrous metal floating around in our engines but it helps to collect it and keep it out of the motor. Do you need to? The simple answer is no! For the effort involved to attach a filter magnet on one or from say one from an old hard drive laying around it can only help not hurt.

With the older cast iron or even newer cast liner cylinder car engines (older engine tolerances where not as fine as today and lots of filings would up in the motor especially on breakin) and motorcycle engines with attached gear boxes (metal gears make filings) there can be a lot of metal floating around and where this all started. In racing they sometimes epoxy magnets inside the engines to collect the fine particles of steel.

I know that I have a magnetic oil plug in my old car and even after many thousands of miles you still collect a bit of metallic crap on it. Ski-Doo on their chaincase had a magnet on the dipstick and you could see the steel filings from the chain and gears on that.
 
You want to see funny - the last three trucks I purchased (Ford F150's) from a local dealer close to the airport all got the beat in right from the parking lot on the test drive. There is a nice little back road around the back of the airport and I head right for it and "beat it in" proper.

They like you to demo the one they will sell you, so it doesn't matter to me. The salesman are usually ready to hurl after all the gun up and down on the short ride. We get back, I buy the truck and have them give it it's first oil change before I pick it up. They have never been back after.

I'm not sure what your truing to say here the F150 is a POS or what.
 
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OH good so these guys will cover warranty on any thing. I don't have to worry about oil changes, maintenance, misuse or anything and I'm good to go to go as long as I am to stupid to read the owners manual.
 


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