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Track tension adjust question?

cloead

Extreme
Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
60
Just got a new-to-me 08 Nytro. With the rear end jacked up my track droop is a little weird. The right side droops about 1 1/2 - 2" from the skid. The left side is hanging 3-4". I don't see the common track tensioners at the rear of the skid. How do I adjust this thing? Looking at the drive lugs it appears that the track is pretty centered but looking at the most exterior wheels in the back of the skid it looks off to one side.


Also, at the read of the skid I only have 3 wheels, where it looks like I should have 4? 2 on the left side (one inner, one outer), and only one outer on the right. Is that incorrect?

Any help is greatly appreciated
 

The access the track tensioners you need to look through the track windows at the very back. Then use a socket to tighten. The suggested track tension should be 1 1/8 of an inch. I run mine at 1.5 to 1.75 for less wear on sliders.
In regards to the wheels there should be be at least 2 outside idler wheels on each side and 2 inside.
I am putting a link to the Nytro Service Manual and Shop Manuals.

http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/as...12628-02-77_FXNytro_RTXSE_XTX_1742.pdf#page55
http://www.marclatulippe.com/ManuelShopMotoneige/Yamaha/Yamaha 2008-2011 FX Nytro.pdf
 
Very helpful, thank you for the links!

As for the wheels, I found this picture of a nytro skid on ebay:

IC0PDra.jpg


Circled is the same layout of wheels that I have, 2 on one side, 1 on the other. According to that picture what I have is correct.. unless I'm wrong lol
 
And is left to right track tension important? Like should I have equal amounts of droop on both sides?
 
3 wheels in the rear is the stock setup. You can buy a 4th wheel kit but it's not necessary. I run the track as loose as possible without it ratcheting. It is important that the track is centered. I compare the gaps between the track clips and the rail near the rear of the skid. There's normally about 1/4" gap on each side.

4th wheel added to an extended RTX skid:
 
To expand on what Griz said, I'd first start by making sure that the two adjuster bolts are at the same setting (measure length of exposed threads or whatever you can see) to establish a starting point, and then set the track tension properly (making equal adjustments on each side). From there, run the track up to speed for a short duration, then check to see if the track is still centered. If not, one side or the other needs adjustment. If the track is further to the left, for example, you need to increase tension on the left side a bit (or move the left side of the axle rearward). Then run it up again and see if it stays centered. Repeat until tension is good and the track is centered. At that point, if you have noticeably more droop on one side than the other, I'd say there is something wrong with your skid, drivers or the track, however I suspect if that was the case, you'll never get the track to stay centered anyway.
 
Loosen axel nut and use a socket and extension to tighten track. Very easy, no jam nut like other sleds use.

Keep he track centred, I look where grizz stated, easiest way for me.

3 wheel is stock on the nytro, my nytro has the 4th wheel kit added. It's suppose to add durability, but it's not nesessary.
 
Ok, thanks a lot guys. I'll get working on it this weekend. Saw some 4th wheel kits for sale, now I know what they are for! lol
 
So I went to loosen my axle nut.. and broke it. Tried to remove the axle and had to pound it out. Both outer wheels bearings were shot, the wheels had a ton of slop to them. A lot of spacers on the axle (dont really remember how they came apart.. =-[), and the inner wheel looked pretty worn down.

The tensioners were also off about 1/2" from each other. I ran them all the way in to aid in getting the new axle in (whenever I get one).. lol

Then I decided to figure out why the sled was so loud.. and do other things...

pvl4Qcph.jpg


woops
 
probably should drop the skid out and check it over. Putting the rear axle back in will be much easier with the skid out. The washers go on each side of the rail and there are 4 total. Make sure the adjuster studs point out when you put the axle back in.

This is with the 4th wheel installed but it's the best picture I have
 
Last edited:
My
So I went to loosen my axle nut.. and broke it. Tried to remove the axle and had to pound it out. Both outer wheels bearings were shot, the wheels had a ton of slop to them. A lot of spacers on the axle (dont really remember how they came apart.. =-[), and the inner wheel looked pretty worn down.

The tensioners were also off about 1/2" from each other. I ran them all the way in to aid in getting the new axle in (whenever I get one).. lol

Then I decided to figure out why the sled was so loud.. and do other things...

pvl4Qcph.jpg


woops

My sled looked like that this summer. Sledtoyz for copper exhaust donuts, Yamaha carries oil lite front bushing kit, took skid out,greased joints (fittings) greased all bearings in wheels, painted steel arms in skid, installed hid lights and changed spark plugs and engine oil/filter. Few hours north of me is seeing 40cm of snow tonight and tomorrow!
 
probably should drop the skid out and check it over. Putting the rear axle back in will be much easier with the skid out. The washers go on each side of the rail and there are 4 total. Make sure the adjuster studs point out when you put the axle back in.

This is with the 4th wheel installed but it's the best picture I have

I'm not sure what you mean about the adjuster studs.. I'll have to look closer at them.

Any tips on getting the skid out? Never done it. I'll order 3 new wheels (plus 4th wheel kit), new axle, and nut.

Also what else should I do when the skid is out? I've never owned a sled I cared about enough to do this kind of maintenance to it.. weird.
 
My


My sled looked like that this summer. Sledtoyz for copper exhaust donuts, Yamaha carries oil lite front bushing kit, took skid out,greased joints (fittings) greased all bearings in wheels, painted steel arms in skid, installed hid lights and changed spark plugs and engine oil/filter. Few hours north of me is seeing 40cm of snow tonight and tomorrow!
Yeah I'm getting a late jump. We are getting light snow right now but it wont stick. I need to move to Canada!

I ordered donuts earlier this week from Sledtoyz, hope they get them to me soon. All 3 of mine were MIA. Oil lite front bushing kit? Unaware of what that is. Might throw a set of plugs in it. Have oil change kit & chaincase oil waiting, but I forgot to bring a drain pan with me tonight.
 
If you look at the adjuster and nut in my picture you can see that it points slightly toward the outside wheel. It's connected to a sleeve that's held in place by the axle. If the sleeve is rotated the adjuster will point in and you won't be able to adjust the track through the track windows. The skid is held in by two bolts in the rear and two nutted bolts in the front of the tunnel . Remove the rear bolts first. Coming out is easier than putting it back in.
 
If you jack the front of your sled up (any way you please) and grab the ski loops and pull up on them, look for play where the a-arms mount to the sub frame. Upper and lower. Stock Yamaha uses plastic bushings which wore out sitting on the showroom floor I think! Mine were toast, replaced them all with oilite bushings.
FX Nytro/Phazer Oilite Front End Bushing Kit:

  • Replaces all the front end bushings in the front end of your 2007 and newer Yamaha 4-stroke!

  • Fits 2007-2012 Phazer/Venture and 2008-2012 FX Nytro models!

  • Kit Includes:
    -4 upper a-arm bushings
    -8 lower a-arm bushings


  • 2007-2009 Phazer $75

  • 2008 FX Nytro $75

  • 2009 FX Nytro $86

***Click on image for larger picture***


The stock ski bushings are also prone to wear. Ball joints will likely have some play. Mine do, but not enough for me to replace just yet.

Apex, RX-1, Vector, Phazer, FX Nytro Ski Bolt Bushing Kit:

  • Do you notice excessive play in the area where the ski bolts to the spindle? If so we have new bushings that will tighten up the slop!

  • Fits all 4-stroke models!

  • Kit Includes:
    4 Spindle Bushings (2 per side)


  • $35 per set

  • Add the kit onto any front end bushing kits and get it for a discounted price of $25!

***Click on image for larger picture***
 


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