• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

What is it really going to take to make an XTX handle?

number1kyster

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Dec 10, 2004
Messages
2,156
Location
Vermont
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2018 SW RTX SE
I've got 15,000 miles on the Apex RTX sleds. Nytro's can be bought cheap around here. I'm thinking about getting an XTX next season. Here is what my Apex had done to handle like other brands:

13MM sway bar
Pilot Skis
Pioneer revalve

This sled handled very well. What am I going to have to add to a Nytro to get it to handle as well? I don't think you can buy a more reliable used machine for the money. I meat 2011 XTX's are going for around $5k.

I'm thinking of getting a used one and adding Pilot 6.9's with the star kit, and dupont slides. Will I need more?
 

I have several nytros in my family. You will definitely want the aftermarket skis, tuners are pretty good if you get a new nytro. I would also add some type of steering relocate, I only have had experience with the OFT relocate and that made a huge difference.

I just bought another used 13' nytro with 500 miles on it for 7000. I've been on the new vipers, they are good machines but it still feels and looks like a cat. Overall the nytro is more fun to drive.

Another thing I see is people tuning their suspensions way to soft, this will make it handle like a tank. The nytro isnt meant to be a comfortable trail cruiser.
 
OFT relocate, Skinz front end with SLP front spindles transforms the Nytros personality. I am running stock skis and it's a perfect sled for my style of riding...
 
My XTX Settings

Stock skies-Mountain or trail-with snowtrackers and it rails.(Skies set to wider stance for trail riding) I personally like using the mountain skies all the time because they have better floatation.

Sway bar moved to the stiffer hole.

Front skid shock lowered all the way and tighten 1 turn.

Limiter strap pulled up one hole.

Front shocks-springs loosened up all the way and tighten one turn. Compression/rebound set to my preference(Don't need much ski pressure with the front skid shock lowered)

Rear skid spring set to minimum.

Im 220 without gear and its a great trail and off trail machine.

Hope this helps ;)!
 
For that kind of money, I'll buy a sled that handles better. I guess I need to try and test ride an XTX.
 
Skis would be the big one. Everything else is just preference I think. Don't hesitate on buying one especially if they go that cheap! Really that cheap? Put skis on and go from there. I don't have an xtx, just a shorty and I rode it once with stock skis and instantly figured out the problem. I put C&As on it and now she rails. My brother in law has a pro r switchback and we switch back and forth and he said she corners just as good as his. C&As made the difference and the only other thing I did was put a 2" lake effect pivot riser on because I like to stand. Don't be afraid to get one.
 
number1kyster said:
For that kind of money, I'll buy a sled that handles better. I guess I need to try and test ride an XTX.

Probably would be best to ride one and yea Its alot of $ for arms. Its either love or hate with a nytro it seems, I ran mine for 7300 miles and tried different ski combos but could never seem to get it set up where it would work good in all different conditions.. I learned to adapt to it. The harder you ride a nytro the better it performs. Then I put the skinz arms on it and it would rail through all conditions. My dealer is selling '14 Nytro rtxs for $8000 I almost bought one and stretched it to 136" and swapped the a arms out but after tallying the cost decided to spring order a Doo for a change. I love that engine though!
 
I picked up a 13 leftover XTX and love it. 13's have tuner skis on them and they seem to work great. I am 6' 240 suited up and this setup worked great for me.
1) Loosen front shock coil spring till it has no preload with no weight on it. My front shocks are the cheaper no compression no
rebound ones so there are no other adjustments to be made. These shocks are cheaper but do give a good front end ride.
2) Move sway bar link to front hole and put skis to widest setting.
3) Tighten the front suspension shock spring 2 full turns from the standard setting. I left the limiter strap stock for light steering.
4) Set the rear spring to Min along with the compression in the shock to min and add a little compression back in if it bottoms.
5) Stock transfer rod setting seems to give a good compromise of steering,ride and traction for me.
 
Hygear revalve sport package rear skid shocks. Triple rate springs(Hygear) on front stock GYTR shocks and set preload hard as they will go(opposite of what everyone else is doing)(comp+rebound @ 3-5 in from full open)found this makes her handle quite well at speed with the occasional head shake and ski lift in the twistys.Center shock after revalve only 5mm of preload and rear springs set at medium(I'm 245 with gear)
Tuner ski's with 4 in and out. Limiter strap in stock holes and rear shock compression @5-7 out from closed.

Pete
 
number1kyster said:
For that kind of money, I'll buy a sled that handles better. I guess I need to try and test ride an XTX.

I did that and came back to my Nytro then boosted it... All depends what type of riding you are into.
 
Those with a JRE kit. How does in handle deep snow once it is lowered?

How does the XTX do in deep snow in general? I ride 75% trail/25% off trail.
 
Mine was no problem in the deep snow with JRE spindles.
 


Back
Top