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XTX Limiter straps torn


I've had the problem, fixed it, and haven't had a problem since.
The strap needs to be tight on the bottom shaft. What happens if it's loose is it can slide sideways and the track drive lug can hit it causing the strap to deflect forwards. On full compression, if the strap bends forwards instead of aft, it catches on the drive lugs and will rip as it tries to pull the loose strap under the shaft.
Fix it by making sure the strap is tight on the bottom shaft. Big washers work. Tighten till the washers start to bend. Make sure the strap is centered between the drive lugs before tightening.
 
MMStewy said:
I've had the problem, fixed it, and haven't had a problem since.
The strap needs to be tight on the bottom shaft. What happens if it's loose is it can slide sideways and the track drive lug can hit it causing the strap to deflect forwards. On full compression, if the strap bends forwards instead of aft, it catches on the drive lugs and will rip as it tries to pull the loose strap under the shaft.
Fix it by making sure the strap is tight on the bottom shaft. Big washers work. Tighten till the washers start to bend. Make sure the strap is centered between the drive lugs before tightening.

This method helps...but they are still vulnerbable. Mine still eventually broke.
 
4,000 miles mine are good yet
 
Guys,
Sorry if I type something that's already been said. I read as much as I had time for before posting, but I too have done some homework.

2009 FX Nytro XTX (new to me, but has 700 miles on it). I took the skid out for a up front an personal check on critical components, replaced hifax, greased everything. Noticed the ripped up limiter straps. Wondered about it, but never had a problem with them (coming off Ski-Doo)

After reading, I have come up with a few fun facts.

Yamaha Part Number for 2011 Nytro XTX for limiter strap is not the same as 2009.
2011 FX Nytro XTX
STOPPER 1
8HL-47495-10-00

2009 FX Nytro XTX
STOPPER 1
8HL-47495-00-00

Someone had mentioned they bought straps, and they had a premolded hour-glass shape in them (possible clearance for the fact that they wear like an hour-glass.....)

Second. It appears bolt and the nuts have been updated. The microfeishe says "replaces" usually when things have been updated. THe washer appears to have remained the same.

16 BOLT,HEXAGON
97017-06025-00 (replaces 97002-06025-00) 4 $0.68 $0.58

17 WASHER, PLATE
90201-06081-00 8 $1.54 $1.31

18 NUT,FLANGE
95707-06300-00 (replaces 95702-06300-00) 4 $1.06 $0.90

For my questions.
1) From what I can see, the fix is getting the strap to stop rotating uncontrollably. For this, I see larger washers, on top and bottom,
and turning the bolt heads forward. For the record, I just don't understand what turning the bolts heads forward does.

2) Should I replace straps with stock OEM straps? Are they in fact updated at this point?
 
kkraus, I re-drew this for clarity, just so I understand. Please correct me wherever I went wrong. I was going to use pieces from the old limiter straps if I could, or buy (4) new ones and cut (2).... :o|
 

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You got it Jimdevjr! I have 5600 miles on since I doubled up the straps with no more issues. Looks like you have a little more skills with CAD then me. Save yourself some big money from the dealer. If you have a local farm supply store visit them and get some bailer belt. Its the same material as the straps are at a fraction of the cost. Lay it out and mark the belt and cut out the strips with a razor knife. Use a leather punch or a red hot bolt to create the holes. Quick and simple fix. When I first started this post I knew that this would be a major issue and unfortunately it is. Hope the fix works as good for you as it did for me. Ride on!
 
take a look at some other sleds and you will see that the bottom shaft that holds the limiter straps is always positioned higer up from track lugs, most sleds have shaft where the rails are starting to bend upwards and leave the track thus avoiding contact with limiter strap. just some food for thought while we wait for snow!
 
i used strap from polaris edge m-10 suspension along with strap collar on the bottom shaft . the strap is 15 dollars collar about 40. its less then two yamaha updated ones that only last a season 40 each. worked out good
 
kkraus said:
You got it Jimdevjr! I have 5600 miles on since I doubled up the straps with no more issues. Looks like you have a little more skills with CAD then me. Save yourself some big money from the dealer. If you have a local farm supply store visit them and get some bailer belt. Its the same material as the straps are at a fraction of the cost. Lay it out and mark the belt and cut out the strips with a razor knife. Use a leather punch or a red hot bolt to create the holes. Quick and simple fix. When I first started this post I knew that this would be a major issue and unfortunately it is. Hope the fix works as good for you as it did for me. Ride on!

Sounds good Kraus. What I don't understand is if the track lugs come up and wear the limiter strap like an hour-glass, that indicates clearly that the strap is centered on the lugs, but the lugs can physically come up high enough to hit the strap. Even with this fix, how the heck does it prevent the problem.......

OR...... Is the limiter strap moving side to side (at a similar rate) and causing the hour glass that way. Doubling up the strap makes it more rigid, and takes away the ability to move side to side. Is this the theory?

I also noticed you have a Ohlins shock in there. There is a company that claims re-valving the shock keeps it from coming so close to bottom, making it so the straps don't "swing around" as much, thereby saving the limiter straps. Was just wondering if you had this fix in place with the stock shock. Was hoping you didn't do both at the same time (strap update and Ohlins shock)
 
The problem I had was not with the track lugs hitting the straps on the bottom it was from the suspension compressing and the straps flexing forward into lugs tearing them to shreds. By adding the extra strap it made it more rigid and not able to rotate on the shaft so easily and fixed my issue. I did not do anything to my shocks.
 

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weird. 1800 miles on my xtx and the straps still look new.
however i did do larger wheels at 300 miles so that buys me some clearance on the straps and the center shock.
and fyi i ride it pretty hard, although my suspensions dialed pretty good, think i may have bottomed it 3 times, and it wasnt harsh at all.
handles woops the size of volkswagens at 75 no problem.
 
Groomer08 said:
weird. 1800 miles on my xtx and the straps still look new.
however i did do larger wheels at 300 miles so that buys me some clearance on the straps and the center shock.
and fyi i ride it pretty hard, although my suspensions dialed pretty good, think i may have bottomed it 3 times, and it wasnt harsh at all.
handles woops the size of volkswagens at 75 no problem.

My guess on this is bigger wheels keep the Hyfax thickness right at max. By this, your simply further away from the straps than most people. My hyfax were worn 1/8-3/16 of an inch or so right where the straps are.

I looked on the Excell site. $305 for a full set...... I really didn't want to spend that money this year, however for piece of mind when I am 150 miles from my truck in -20F weather is well worth it. How is it to put the wheels on? I already had the skid out. I am guessing just start taking stuff apart and rebuild it with new wheels....
 
Go ahead and waste your money on the bigger wheels if you want. I am running the stock Billet Yamaha wheels and have worn my slides paper thin with no issues to the straps since I added the extra strap and I do ride as hard as the next guy. The worst that would happen if you are 150 miles away from your truck and both straps broke, you would not have any ski pressure but you would still be able to ride it back.
 


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