sledheadgeorge
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This year I pulled the exaust off to change the graphite donuts on the pipes and noticed that my rear pipe to the turbo has a slight fold at the "Y". The rear bracket that holds the Turbo under the seat has also broke. This is from the chassis flexing under load. Has any one else experienced this? I was thinking of welding in a flex joint in the exaust pipe, just before the pipe turns up to the Turbo, to help relieve the stress. What do you guys think and has anyobne else done this?

KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Its not from flexing of the chassis. I have a rear mount in the garage, that has only been a drag sled from day one, and has kinked the two into one pipe so bad, it slid right off the factory four into two pipes. It also has bowed it downward. I think is is from the expansion and contraction and stresses under boost when hot . I'll get out and snap a couple pics. and we can see how they compare. Mike Knapp#17
ken_climb
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I think a flex joint woud be a great idea. Lete us know how it turns out.
sledheadgeorge said:This year I pulled the exaust off to change the graphite donuts on the pipes and noticed that my rear pipe to the turbo has a slight fold at the "Y". The rear bracket that holds the Turbo under the seat has also broke. This is from the chassis flexing under load. Has any one else experienced this? I was thinking of welding in a flex joint in the exaust pipe, just before the pipe turns up to the Turbo, to help relieve the stress. What do you guys think and has anyobne else done this?
Are you talking mild steel for the Y or stainless? all of the kits I've built have used stainless and I haven't seen this problem yet. I was re-installing on of our kits Monday night an the Y is the same as the day I built it (5000kms on this specific kit). If your kit has mild steel, it might be worth considering a re-do of the part in stainless.
sledheadgeorge
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Its a stainless piece. I will post a pic of it. I think its from the heat as well. But it also broke the bracket the turbo was bolted on to at the rear, last year. I reinforced it then, but now that I took it a part the bracket has bent. I think a flex joint is in order. Does anyone know were a good place to start looking for one would be? BTW lakercr I have over 8,000 miles on mine, and I'm not the kind of guy to baby it neither.
sledheadgeorge said:Its a stainless piece. I will post a pic of it. I think its from the heat as well. But it also broke the bracket the turbo was bolted on to at the rear, last year. I reinforced it then, but now that I took it a part the bracket has bent. I think a flex joint is in order. Does anyone know were a good place to start looking for one would be? BTW lakercr I have over 8,000 miles on mine, and I'm not the kind of guy to baby it neither.
Huh, something definitely needs to be re-engineered. Flex joint sounds like the right direction - can you post a pic?
I've read many of your posts - I know you like to get your money's worth out of the turbo!
sledheadgeorge
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sledheadgeorge
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sledheadgeorge said:This first picture shows the damaged area, at the Y. As you can see I have one of the original designs for MCX. The pipe is a little dirty because it was wrapped.
That's a pretty agressive bend for the exhaust to make going from the 2 into 1. I'm sure you are holding more heat there than you want to. What is the center line offset on that thing? I might have a spare part I can send you.
sledheadgeorge
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The last picture shows were I think the flex joint would be best to install. I really don't know if the flex joint could withstand the heat at the Y. And if it could you run the risk of having your studs hit it (Flatlanders), due to the extra size of the radius that the pipe would have at that point.
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sledheadgeorge
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lakercr said:sledheadgeorge said:This first picture shows the damaged area, at the Y. As you can see I have one of the original designs for MCX. The pipe is a little dirty because it was wrapped.
That's a pretty agressive bend for the exhaust to make going from the 2 into 1. I'm sure you are holding more heat there than you want to. What is the center line offset on that thing? I might have a spare part I can send you.
I'm not quite sure of the measurment that you are refuring to. the 2 pipes at the Y are approx 3.5", centre ot centre
sledheadgeorge said:The last picture shows were I think the flex joint would be best to install. I really don't know if the flex joint could withstand the heat at the Y. And if it could you run the risk of having your studs hit it (Flatlanders), due to the extra size of the radius that the pipe would have at that point.
I'm not sure what kind of luck you'll have finding a flex joint at this i.d. What exactly is your i.d. BTW - I'll check with my suppliers tomorrow.
These pics are the BPE pan and Y pipe. Does it look like something you can use (as opposed to repairing you Y).
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sledheadgeorge said:lakercr said:sledheadgeorge said:This first picture shows the damaged area, at the Y. As you can see I have one of the original designs for MCX. The pipe is a little dirty because it was wrapped.
That's a pretty agressive bend for the exhaust to make going from the 2 into 1. I'm sure you are holding more heat there than you want to. What is the center line offset on that thing? I might have a spare part I can send you.
I'm not quite sure of the measurment that you are refuring to. the 2 pipes at the Y are approx 3.5", centre ot centre
Center line of the Y to the center line of the single pipe...
sledheadgeorge
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Centre to centre is approx. 2 1/4". I/S diam. of pipe is 1 5/8. O/S diam is 1 3/4.
sledheadgeorge said:Centre to centre is approx. 2 1/4". I/S diam. of pipe is 1 5/8. O/S diam is 1 3/4.
My o.d and i.d match, C-C looks pretty good too. Your call, if you want a new Y pipe I'll send it to you. You'll still have to cut the overall length to size and weld the flange on, but this should be a whole lot easier than fixing the problem you have now.
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