Apex idler wheels ?

w8tn4snow

w8tn4snow

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2015 SR Viper LTX DX
Hi folks , I removed my skid to repaint the arms , Nasty rust on all the welds , weird I thought . Anyway i notoced one idler completly missing , mounting block and all . And 3 other ones with bad bearings . . I figured theyre crap since the bearings arent replaceable or greaseable , real smart idea by Yammi I thought . But anyway , does anybody out there have suggestions for replacements that dont break the bank , Yamaha wants the first born for crap stock replacements from what ive seen . Id rather buy cheap Kimpex ones if im replacing them every year .

And Oh yeah we had our first frost warning up here in Northern NY last night , I dont know about you all but my skin is starting to crawl allready . :letsnow: hehehe !!!
 
this post was perfect timing... so after re-reading those suggested posts my head is kind of spinning from all the information and what to put on my 06 apex... correct me if I am wrong, but what I got from this is that the spoked yami accessory, kimpex, and kirk wheels are direct bolt and will not affect the rail life long term. the doo and poo wheels need machined mounts and may warp rails. Did I get this right?
 
dexter said:
this post was perfect timing... so after re-reading those suggested posts my head is kind of spinning from all the information and what to put on my 06 apex... correct me if I am wrong, but what I got from this is that the spoked yami accessory, kimpex, and kirk wheels are direct bolt and will not affect the rail life long term. the doo and poo wheels need machined mounts and may warp rails. Did I get this right?
Click to expand...

Close, but not quite.

The Yamaha accessory wheels are a direct bolt on, however you will experience the same slider wear as you are experiencing now.

The Kimpex and Dennis Kirk wheels do not necessarily bolt on directly due to the different sizes available, as well as different bearings. This is where you have to pay special attention to thus having to machine your wheel mounts.

Also, I have yet to see or experience any conclusive evidence that running a slightly larger Poo or Doo wheel causes damage to the rails. Again, you have to pay particular attention to the bearing size and whether you need to machine the mounts or not.

Everybody has their own opinion, hence the reason why there are so many posts regarding wheels... that and Yamaha's poorly designed stock wheels.
 
I've been running Polaris replacement wheels on my XTC,Viper, and now my Attak. The only rail issues I've had were from jumping (see my avatar). Used to change my XTC every 500-800 miles. After installing Poo idlers, once at the beginning of every season. Viper was better, but still only got 1000-1200 before they would wear through. After, once a season. The Attak had them on from my first day of ownership. Only issue I had was wear between center and rear wheels. Tightend my track to slightly looser than spec, and that went away as well. I also did no machining on any of my installs. Yes, the inners run off, but I haven't had an issue. The oversized wheels are the most cost effective way, IMHO, to reduce hyfax wear. And thats MY Nickels worth of advice LOL.
 
good reading again... i bought the kit from pioneer to help iwth the slides, but they failed to mention that it only works with the infamous $80 yami wheels and no way am I going to pay that. So you installed your poo wheels as is with no machining to the blocks?
 
So from what im gathering here , the aftermarket wheels are ok to run and if they are slightly larger its almost preferable . To aid in hyfax wear . Im mostly looking for something with servicable bearings since that whole molded in deal seems to be a real pain in the a$$ . I understand a larger wheel will cause the wheel to wear faster and apply more pressure to the bearing so being able to repack the bearings is nice ,
Am i keeping up with everyone here ?
 
sounds on to me.... having the replaceable bearing is awesome as long as the wheel lasts longer :o|
 
I'm running the Poo wheels on my Attak and I've had no issues in 4000 miles. I did not machine the wheels.

Pretty sure Hondo ran the Poo wheels on his Venture and he also had no issues. He had over 30,000 miles on his sled but I'm not sure how many miles using the Poo wheels.
 
It's OK to run oversize IDLERS on the 4 front outer without having to machine mounts when using larger "6205" bearings, but its a different story on the INNER REAR when using "6205" you MUST machine mounts in order for them to run centre between the track cogs and I wouldn't run OVERSIZE IDLERS on the rear inners 'cuz of them already having a LOT of pressure on rails and some reports of CRACKED rails with oversize idlers and even some with OEM...

If you use idlers with "6005" you don't have to modify/machine mounts, direct bolt on and everything lines up...but the down fall is "6005" are hard to find and VERY expensive compared to "6205" and don't last as long being smaller.
 
apltx08 said:
It's OK to run oversize IDLERS on the 4 front outer without having to machine mounts when using larger "6205" bearings, but its a different story on the INNER REAR when using "6205" you MUST machine mounts in order for them to run centre between the track cogs and I wouldn't run OVERSIZE IDLERS on the rear inners 'cuz of them already having a LOT of pressure on rails and some reports of CRACKED rails with oversize idlers and even some with OEM...
Click to expand...
I don't doubt your logic but my actual experience has been no cracked rails with oversize idlers that were not machined. Maybe I just ride it like a sissy ... LOL.

Black Knight, procedure takes about 10 minutes. Just remove the bolt that connects the wheels to the suspension and they come right out.
 
so swiss... you just bolted all six of them and have had no issues? how tight are you running your track?
 
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