cmd951
Veteran
I have an 03 RX1 with an 1 1/4 ripsaw track with 24/38 gearing, 54/44 Dalten helix, stock weights, and ECP filter kit. It pulls hard put I still have a problem with F7's and 900 Fusion's. The sled pulls hard to about 9600rpm and then seems to flatten out on the top. It goes to about 10400rpm. The odd time when it takes off it will reach 10800 and then back off to 10300. I have a 40T bottom gear I was thinking about trying to see if I can stretch out it legs a bit more throughout the power range. I also have read about guys using 5/16 washes to space out the helix in the secondary. Would this trick help??? Looking for imput from anybody. Also what should I have the secondary spring set at for optimal performance?? On hard packed ground the sled has awsome weight transfer and ski lift (suspension adjustments). If I want I can stand the sled right up on the bumper. I've made people (Polaris and Skidoo riders) believe that RX1's have the power and ability to wheely of hills at 80mph. They have a hard time calling my sled a RX1 tonne..
RX-Dave
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Messages
- 308
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 591
Shimming the helix on a Dalton helix wont help, it will shift out allready. Stock helixs are the ones that dont shift all the way.
IMO you have too much helix in it. Im running less finish angle with good results. My RX-1 with a 136" track with STOCK 24/38 gearing has no problem with 128" F7s upstairs. Nothing ground breaking, but very impressive if you ask me. Keeping up with a sled that weighs 200lbs less and has 10hp on me.
IMO you have too much helix in it. Im running less finish angle with good results. My RX-1 with a 136" track with STOCK 24/38 gearing has no problem with 128" F7s upstairs. Nothing ground breaking, but very impressive if you ask me. Keeping up with a sled that weighs 200lbs less and has 10hp on me.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
if your lifting your skis more than a few inches drag racing, then you are using hp to lift the sled, rather than to go forward. the time this takes is often the difference between winning and loosing. put an orange silver orange yamaha spring in the primary. you can also add the washers under the helix, as this will prevent coil bind with the stock spring.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
rx 1
have you done your jetting? i found that they can jusy to lean out of the box. jetting up realy helped my top speed.
have you done your jetting? i found that they can jusy to lean out of the box. jetting up realy helped my top speed.
cmd951
Veteran
I've got 165 jets with red springs in it.
cmd951
Veteran
What is the orange-silver-orange spring going to help???More rpm
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
yes, more rpm. its shift out rate is higher thus bringing the rpm up.
cmd951
Veteran
What about using the 40T gear in the bottom??? Does anybody have any thoughts to this. I realize it should get more to end, but will it help get to 100mph quicker.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
40t
no a 40 on the bottem will lower your gearing and reduce the top speed in therory but it will help with pickup not a bad choice if thats what you want. i use epi botem gears for pol had to cut the ist one i got but the last one was cut all ready and there was a washer in the bag for running with a pol. a lot less money than yamaha gears.
no a 40 on the bottem will lower your gearing and reduce the top speed in therory but it will help with pickup not a bad choice if thats what you want. i use epi botem gears for pol had to cut the ist one i got but the last one was cut all ready and there was a washer in the bag for running with a pol. a lot less money than yamaha gears.
suprfst
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2004
- Messages
- 727
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 973
- Location
- Tawas Michigan
- Website
- www.smcfabrication.com
Black john will the polaris bottom gears will only work with the non reverse equiped rx-1,s?
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
40t
yes steve thats right. but micro belmont engnering makes a 42 tooth bottem gear for the guys that like to back up but there,s some mods that have to be made the get it to work. you have to grind down the idler gear to clear other wise it will lock up your chain case but it will work as i have insalled one.
yes steve thats right. but micro belmont engnering makes a 42 tooth bottem gear for the guys that like to back up but there,s some mods that have to be made the get it to work. you have to grind down the idler gear to clear other wise it will lock up your chain case but it will work as i have insalled one.

Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Black john:
What are you running for top RPM? I'm noticeing that my 03 with ECP and clutching to match like to rev a bit more. In 2000'@ 10,2 108mph on the gun. Same distance same gun 1hr later turning 10,5 111mph. I'm still playing. I really like the fact that you took basically stock stuff and made yours go fast.
What are you running for top RPM? I'm noticeing that my 03 with ECP and clutching to match like to rev a bit more. In 2000'@ 10,2 108mph on the gun. Same distance same gun 1hr later turning 10,5 111mph. I'm still playing. I really like the fact that you took basically stock stuff and made yours go fast.
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Reaction score
- 780
- Points
- 1,883
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
I think the dalton stuff is like most aftermarket stuff,already cut for overdrive,but are you running the silver secondary spring? and i agree that your finish 44 on your helix may be a little to much,if clutched properly with freddies air box kit no matter whos clutch kit you run,as soon as you hit it,it should go right to 10,500 and stay there,and if anything continue building some rpms from there,not alot but a couple hundred. As for your jetting i ran 165s with freds kit and it ripped,if you change your bottom,as i had some poo gears i used on my bottom as well,and the 40 will work,but that would be lowering you gear ratio,or giving you a better hole shot,but keeping you overall speed down a little,but it would help with your clutching,or just put in the 23 top,same differance,how is everything in your skid,are all your bearings good,and is everything nice and straight,you wont believe how much free hp you can free up from blue printing your skid,good luck.cmd951 said:I have an 03 RX1 with an 1 1/4 ripsaw track with 24/38 gearing, 54/44 Dalten helix, stock weights, and ECP filter kit. It pulls hard put I still have a problem with F7's and 900 Fusion's. The sled pulls hard to about 9600rpm and then seems to flatten out on the top. It goes to about 10400rpm. The odd time when it takes off it will reach 10800 and then back off to 10300. I have a 40T bottom gear I was thinking about trying to see if I can stretch out it legs a bit more throughout the power range. I also have read about guys using 5/16 washes to space out the helix in the secondary. Would this trick help??? Looking for imput from anybody. Also what should I have the secondary spring set at for optimal performance?? On hard packed ground the sled has awsome weight transfer and ski lift (suspension adjustments). If I want I can stand the sled right up on the bumper. I've made people (Polaris and Skidoo riders) believe that RX1's have the power and ability to wheely of hills at 80mph. They have a hard time calling my sled a RX1 tonne..
Similar threads
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.