Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
03, ECP, Brand spanking new cr10ek's. Had to start with starting fluid, instantly 3000 idle. I tapped the throttle and it wanted to die, let off and it would run hard @ 3000.
PLUGS: NO, brand spanking new.
TORS: I did the wire switch to test and started @ over 7000 rpm before I hit the kill switch. The TORS did act up on the last trip in early December. So I am not sure. Should I leave it unplugged all of the time?
CARBS NEED CLEANED: I fricking hope not, I use Seafoam during storage, and In the first tank each trip. I did pressure wash the engine recently, and it ran a little rough driving it back in the garage.
So what do the experts think?
PLUGS: NO, brand spanking new.
TORS: I did the wire switch to test and started @ over 7000 rpm before I hit the kill switch. The TORS did act up on the last trip in early December. So I am not sure. Should I leave it unplugged all of the time?
CARBS NEED CLEANED: I fricking hope not, I use Seafoam during storage, and In the first tank each trip. I did pressure wash the engine recently, and it ran a little rough driving it back in the garage.
So what do the experts think?
kinger
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Ahhh never start with starting fluid, and 2 your pilot jets are plugged causing it to run very lean and thus the high idle. Seafom or not these jets are so small that they coudl plug even during the season. Its not hard to clean them if you want to take the time to learn. Probably a 3 hour job for a 1st timer. I have done it 4 times now and got it down to about 1hr. The hardest part is getting the air box back on (on a vector anyway)!
Tors should never be disabled, you need to adjust throttle free play if in fact it is acting up.
Tors should never be disabled, you need to adjust throttle free play if in fact it is acting up.
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
do you have any info on the carb teardown?
kinger
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Pull the rack off turn upside down and then remove the jets one at a time from the carbs.
kinger
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kinger
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You see the ones in the middle with a regular screw driver slot on them, the little on is the pilot jet, pull it out and see if you can see through it starring into a light. If not its blocked and clean with carb cleaner. It only takes one of them to throw you off so dont look at one and if its clean assume they all are. I pull the main and pilot jets and spray them clean then blow dry with a air compressor. Its easy after you do it once.
Gilbey
Expert
Dan, Kinger has some great pics for you. This is what it sounds like to me too. However, I had used stabil for the storage back then, basically all you can do is drain the float bowls after and run it out of gas to prevent the needle jets from plugging. So, yes, I've had to do the same, but only one pilot was messed up. Tom walked me through it on the phone.
The toughest part of it all is getting out the toughest little flathead screws that you're ever going to find at the bottom of the carb bank. Go get some allen heads from Fastenal or something to replace them out. 16 of em. If you ever have to do it again, well you'll see.
Kinger - great job, glad you took pics and were able to post, cuz this isn't the easiest thing to do.
The toughest part of it all is getting out the toughest little flathead screws that you're ever going to find at the bottom of the carb bank. Go get some allen heads from Fastenal or something to replace them out. 16 of em. If you ever have to do it again, well you'll see.
Kinger - great job, glad you took pics and were able to post, cuz this isn't the easiest thing to do.
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
thanks for the photo, I've done this before when I installed the ECP kit. so you guys are sure its not the TORS?
kinger
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TORS will not cause a high idle, only running lean will. A typical TORS problem is when you hit the gas and it wont rev past 3000 rpm or your above that RPM and it will bgo till it gets to 3000 rpms. Adjust your throttle free play to eliminate the possibility though. I have the manual and will try to post the instructions of how to do it, searching might help as well.
SnoWarrior
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Disconnect the throttle cable and pull the carbs off. Then use a couple of bungy cords to hold the carbs upside down. Also if you can replace the phillips screws with metric allen screws when you put it back together. When I did my filter kit and velocity rings Freddie sent new allen screws with the kit. The phillips were a bear to get out. Had to use an impact driver on 4 of them. The heads are real soft on the stock screws. Good pics and good info. Also there is info in the Tech pages.
What I like to do is use a board! Keep all the cables attached and just flip the carbs on there side, slide the board under it and then you have a built in tray for all the little parts.
Put a shop towel on the board that will keep things from taking off on you.
Works well for me, Takes me about 1/2 hr to clean them out. O ya change out the stock screw on the bowls to allen heads found at most hardware stores.
Put a shop towel on the board that will keep things from taking off on you.
Works well for me, Takes me about 1/2 hr to clean them out. O ya change out the stock screw on the bowls to allen heads found at most hardware stores.
Gilbey
Expert
SnoWarrior said:
You did pretty well compared to me. I had to grind 3 of the heads off and take em out with a needle nose after pulling the bottom of the bank off.
wesleeja
Extreme
I had the same problem. What I did was pulled the throttle cable and it got cought on the mount where the metal end of the cable is connected to the carbs. Check to make sure the metal coated end of the throttle cable is sitting flush properly. If it is not the throttle cable is being pulled which is giving it throttle and the torrs is being activated. I did the same with my sled. I had to start it with starting fluid, the motor went up to around 3000 rpm if I hit the throttle it would pop and back fire. I seen the throttle cable was being pulled because the metal end of the cable where it is bent was not sitting correctly. I hope this helps.
wesleeja
Extreme
Another thing is, I did disconnect the torrs when this high idle problem happend to me and it did nothing to solve the problem. If you look at the end of the cable you can see the cable pulling on the cam for the carbs. If you get real close and use a flash light you can see a small plate that moves with up the cam. That small plate will hit the carb end of the torrs. On my sled the plate was about 1/4" away from hitting the toors button. when I moved the throttle cable back to the correct position it was fixed. It is pretty hard to explain, but it was real easy to fix once I found the problem. If the throttle cable is in the correct position I am not sure what the porblem could be.
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The size of the metric socket head cap screws (Allen bolts) is 4mm X 0.7pitch X 10mm long. I buy them 200 at a time.
