hibshman25
Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2005
- Messages
- 2,875
- Reaction score
- 2,751
- Points
- 1,603
- Location
- Lebanon, PA 17042
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 sidewinder ltx dx
2018 snoscoot
Looking into putting an xtx skid in a vector. Can anyone provide me with the location of the front mount hole on the apex tunnel?
i got this a couple of years ago hope it helps
hibshman25
Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2005
- Messages
- 2,875
- Reaction score
- 2,751
- Points
- 1,603
- Location
- Lebanon, PA 17042
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 sidewinder ltx dx
2018 snoscoot
spddmon said:
Thanks for posting.
Are the blue dimensions the oem holes?
If they are oem holes are they for the rtx skid or a mono?
the both dimensions are for mounting xtx skid in the tunnel, i used the blue ones to mount my skid
iahacker
VIP Member
XTX skid mount holes
I'm the one that made the drawing that spddmon provided. I made if 3 or 4 years ago before the I had an Apex XTX. I tried to get the measurements as close as possible from a Nytro XTX which, has a different tunnel and was difficult to derive exact measurements. I've since purchased an Apex XTX and have more accurate measurements as follows:
Back of the hex axle to the front mounting hole is 7-3/4" and 6-1/4" from bottom side of the tunnel.
Rear mounting hole is 36-5/8" from back of hex shaft---28-15/16" from the front mounting hole and---7-7/16" from bottom of the tunnel.
The Apex's have two rear mounting holes. The lower one is at 8-1/4" from bottom of the tunnel however, the stock location is the upper hole at 7-7/16".
I used the original measurements to put a Nytro XTX skid into a 2008 40th ann. apex that we had put a super charge in for better traction. It does still work well but the skid is a little too far back in the chasis which makes the track adjuster bolts nearly to the bottom of the adjustment range. I've done two more since with the exact measurements from my 2011 Apex XTX and it works well.
From experience, I suggest you make a cardboard template with the holes marked exactly where they need to be. Then use the same template on both sides of the tunnel to mark the hole. We had Nytro drop bracket for the first one we did. For the other two we used the original steel drop bracket from the Apex's and simply re-located them where I wanted them. I also re-used the two hole flange that is mounted with two bolts on the outside of the tunnel at the running boards.
Good luck with the transplant.
I'm the one that made the drawing that spddmon provided. I made if 3 or 4 years ago before the I had an Apex XTX. I tried to get the measurements as close as possible from a Nytro XTX which, has a different tunnel and was difficult to derive exact measurements. I've since purchased an Apex XTX and have more accurate measurements as follows:
Back of the hex axle to the front mounting hole is 7-3/4" and 6-1/4" from bottom side of the tunnel.
Rear mounting hole is 36-5/8" from back of hex shaft---28-15/16" from the front mounting hole and---7-7/16" from bottom of the tunnel.
The Apex's have two rear mounting holes. The lower one is at 8-1/4" from bottom of the tunnel however, the stock location is the upper hole at 7-7/16".
I used the original measurements to put a Nytro XTX skid into a 2008 40th ann. apex that we had put a super charge in for better traction. It does still work well but the skid is a little too far back in the chasis which makes the track adjuster bolts nearly to the bottom of the adjustment range. I've done two more since with the exact measurements from my 2011 Apex XTX and it works well.
From experience, I suggest you make a cardboard template with the holes marked exactly where they need to be. Then use the same template on both sides of the tunnel to mark the hole. We had Nytro drop bracket for the first one we did. For the other two we used the original steel drop bracket from the Apex's and simply re-located them where I wanted them. I also re-used the two hole flange that is mounted with two bolts on the outside of the tunnel at the running boards.
Good luck with the transplant.
hibshman25
Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2005
- Messages
- 2,875
- Reaction score
- 2,751
- Points
- 1,603
- Location
- Lebanon, PA 17042
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 sidewinder ltx dx
2018 snoscoot
Thanks for the update. I have a nytro xtx tunnel and was just measuring things tonight. Beings the tunnels are different I wasn't ready to start drilling yet! Ha. Your updated dims eliminate and guess work now. Greatly appreciate it.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Reaction score
- 60
- Points
- 1,333
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
The measurements on the download are pretty close, as I did an XTX skid swap into my 06 Apex in '09.
I used a piece of plexiglass as a template that measured 10" x 4', and laid out mine as follows: I had an XTX right next to it to get the measurements from as well, and found that this will leave a bit more track adjustment than the above download, as the skid is just a little further rearward in mine.
I posted a link to the old thread I made when I did the swap, but I'll send pics to anyone who needs anything. I didn't have as many on the thread as I should have, but hopefully this helps?
1- From left to right on my template, I measured over approx 1 1/4" from the left edge and draw a line along the 10" axis.
2.- From the top of the template, measure down 6 1/4" and using a 1" spade bit or hole saw, carefully drill a 1" hole at that point. This is the axle centerline in ralation to the tunnel protectors. You may also want to cut the top left corner of the template off to give you more clearance. Approx 4" is sufficient.
3. From your axle centerline, measure back 8 1/2" and draw another vertical reference line, and mark that line at 5 1/4" down from the top. This is the front skid mounting hole in relation to the tunnel protector.
4. Do the same from the axle centerline at 37 1/4" and 7 3/4" down from the top.
Now with the skid and driveshaft out, find a wooden broom handle, piece of pipe, or whatever with a 1" diameter. (the bearings actually measure .978, so make sure what you find isn't bigger than 1") I used a piece of a garage door shaft, but a 1" pipe from a hardware store fits as well.
Using a ruler or other straightedge, hold something across the bottom of the tunnel protectors near the rear drop brackets and make reference marks on the sides of the tunnel for the tunnel protectors. You'll be holding the top of your template to these marks when marking and drilling your holes, and fitting your drop brackets, so take your time and make sure they're consistant and accurate from side to side!
Slide the shaft through the bearings and the template, and from there you can hold top of the template level with the tunnel protector marks and slide it from side to side and mark your holes.
I made new rear drop brackets from a piece of 1/4"x 5" aluminum strap at 9 1/2" long. I cut the top edge at 10* to the top of the tunnel and drilled my hole at 8 1/2" from the top. This put the top of the idler wheel in the correct position so my track was parallel with the tunnel protectors. It gave my sled the rake I wanted as I run my front a-arms parallel to the ground for better handling. If you want yours different you'll have to scratch your head and adjust the heights accordingly, but these put mine in a position that made all of the suspension adjustments right where I wanted them, and the sled rides awesome, even with the XTX springs. I did re-valve the shock though.
If you want the front of your sled to be higher off of the ground, I'd suggest making your front holes at approximately 6 1/4" down from the protectors instead of 5 1/4" like I did. Where you put the front holes will make a difference on lots of things, so if you don't understand how it can affect things and you're not sure, ask before you drill!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... t=apex+xtx
I used a piece of plexiglass as a template that measured 10" x 4', and laid out mine as follows: I had an XTX right next to it to get the measurements from as well, and found that this will leave a bit more track adjustment than the above download, as the skid is just a little further rearward in mine.
I posted a link to the old thread I made when I did the swap, but I'll send pics to anyone who needs anything. I didn't have as many on the thread as I should have, but hopefully this helps?
1- From left to right on my template, I measured over approx 1 1/4" from the left edge and draw a line along the 10" axis.
2.- From the top of the template, measure down 6 1/4" and using a 1" spade bit or hole saw, carefully drill a 1" hole at that point. This is the axle centerline in ralation to the tunnel protectors. You may also want to cut the top left corner of the template off to give you more clearance. Approx 4" is sufficient.
3. From your axle centerline, measure back 8 1/2" and draw another vertical reference line, and mark that line at 5 1/4" down from the top. This is the front skid mounting hole in relation to the tunnel protector.
4. Do the same from the axle centerline at 37 1/4" and 7 3/4" down from the top.
Now with the skid and driveshaft out, find a wooden broom handle, piece of pipe, or whatever with a 1" diameter. (the bearings actually measure .978, so make sure what you find isn't bigger than 1") I used a piece of a garage door shaft, but a 1" pipe from a hardware store fits as well.
Using a ruler or other straightedge, hold something across the bottom of the tunnel protectors near the rear drop brackets and make reference marks on the sides of the tunnel for the tunnel protectors. You'll be holding the top of your template to these marks when marking and drilling your holes, and fitting your drop brackets, so take your time and make sure they're consistant and accurate from side to side!
Slide the shaft through the bearings and the template, and from there you can hold top of the template level with the tunnel protector marks and slide it from side to side and mark your holes.
I made new rear drop brackets from a piece of 1/4"x 5" aluminum strap at 9 1/2" long. I cut the top edge at 10* to the top of the tunnel and drilled my hole at 8 1/2" from the top. This put the top of the idler wheel in the correct position so my track was parallel with the tunnel protectors. It gave my sled the rake I wanted as I run my front a-arms parallel to the ground for better handling. If you want yours different you'll have to scratch your head and adjust the heights accordingly, but these put mine in a position that made all of the suspension adjustments right where I wanted them, and the sled rides awesome, even with the XTX springs. I did re-valve the shock though.
If you want the front of your sled to be higher off of the ground, I'd suggest making your front holes at approximately 6 1/4" down from the protectors instead of 5 1/4" like I did. Where you put the front holes will make a difference on lots of things, so if you don't understand how it can affect things and you're not sure, ask before you drill!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... t=apex+xtx
