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Wiring relay (Normally Open tether like pro armour)

soldi

Expert
Joined
Jan 13, 2012
Messages
398
Location
Sweden
I need some help wiering my teether... I do not have a NC teether like in this [ http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=860267#860267 ] thread so I have to do it through a relay, but same cables except cables go to relay and relay need power and teether closes power ground circut in relay to break the "real" circut if you follow me..

I got everything set up (batteryside) Iv hooked up the brown wire to a "switching" relay 87a and the red/white wire going to 30 (this makes it connected until relay gets 12v then it breaks the circut)

for the clutch side Im having some issues locating cables.. I got the pro armour hooked up to ground and 86 on the relay. I drilled the stock riser and mounted the switch there so thats done.. Only thing I need to find is a good accesable 12v source that is constantly on when the key is turned on and not affected by the original killswitch and get that hooked up to 85 on the relay..


IMAG0086.jpg


Does anyone have a simple wiering diagram for the phazers or know where the oft teether takes it's 12v from?? I'v found some 12v but all close when you kill the teether making the relay go nuts..


Also if I want to make som nice connectors does anyone know where I could pick up something that would fit the yamaha plastic connectors?? Are there standards? In that case what are they called, what do I look for??
 

Biltema have nice waterproof connectors. They will not fit the Yamaha ones, but you can change them.
I connected my tether so I can by-pass it if I loose the cord or brake the connector when I'm up in the mountain.
I will help you more after the Swedish hockey game =)
 
cannondale27 said:
See the cigarette plug to the left on your sled? That is on with key and fused.

If I'm not mistaken, that one is controlled by the load control relay, which only turns on power after the engine has started. The fuel pump relay is also no good because it only stays on after the sled is started except for that 2 second prime when the key is turned. Looking at the schematics, I think that the brown wire coming from the ignition switch will have continuous power. The kill switch will only stop power from getting to the ECU.
 
I think you are right Mooseman Socket wouldnt work because it would still allow fuel pump to run even though engine was not running. Thanks!
 
12v outlett (cigarette plug) is only powered when engine is on (foudn that out when I just assumed that most be swtiched 12v but as mooseman says it goes thorugh some form of load control.

Fuel pump same thing (almost)..

Finding the cable from the ignition swith wont be hard If i tap into it close to the ignition key but I'd like to find it where there is a conector so that I can make a clean installation (im assuming I cant be so lucky that the bromw 12v switched cable you are talking about is the bromw cable brown cables Im using to cut the engine with? The brown one in this picture coming from the handlebars and running next to the red/white cable.. (I found the picutre using google search so it's not mine but it shows conectorrs batteryside behind the upper side panel behinf that big black cable boot)

test.jpg


I will do some more looking around tomorrow it would just be nice to have something close by where I intended to mount the relay..
 
For what it's worth this is how I ended up doing (the brown wire was 12v ign)

What you need is
1 - Pro Armor killswitch http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-ARMOR-KILL- ... 1c3a5c9a5d

2 - A 12v relay ("switching relay" if translated from Swedish but might be called SPDT 5pin in the US?) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Motor- ... 41&vxp=mtr

3 - 1 meter of automotive quality wire, 4 spade connectors (for the relay) a wire cutter, soldering iron (could use other type of connectors but I soldered)


What I did
The brown wire is ignition 12v, it goes to the kill switch where the wire turns brown/white then back to the connector and there the "kill switch controlled 12v ign wire turn white/red

I tapped into the brown/white wire coming from the kill switch. I let that run to the "switching relay" and then back to the connector towards the red/white wire..

I powered the relay with the same brown white wire so the relay has power as long as the ignition is on and the kill switch has not been pressed.. When the normally open teether is pulled it grounds the brown/white wire making the relay break the circuit of the brown/white wire acting just as the kill switch..

You need a "switching relay" when no power 30 and 87a is connected. when the relay circuit is complete (85 - 86) the relay connects 30 - 87 braking power between 30 and 87a.. So it doesn't draw any current as long as it is connected and since it's powered by and ignition and kill switch controlled 12v it should never use any power...

30 - brown/white 12v ign controlled (circuit to kill)
85 - brown/white 12v ign controlled (power to relay)
86 - ground through normally open tether (pro armor)
87a - to red/white wire

IMAG0088.jpg


You need to power the relay with the 12v coming from the kill switch and not the other side connection to the red/white wire but that should be obvious

IMAG0093.jpg


I put the relay on the clutch side but the only reason for this is because I had jammed my HID ballasts on the battery side so there was so little room I just opted to use the clutch side witch has ample of space (will grab some pictures of relay since this was gonna be in the FAQ)
 
Nice! I will add this to FAQ since there seems to be nicer N.O. switches available like you found. Thank You!
 
cannondale27 said:
Nice! I will add this to FAQ since there seems to be nicer N.O. switches available like you found. Thank You!

Thanks quite and honor actually, I went through my spelling and added parts needed.. Will grab some more pictures of the relay side and also try to go through what I wrote so it makes more sense :) Everyone should run a teether!
 
Biltema have nice waterproof connectors. They will not fit the Yamaha ones, but you can change them.
I connected my tether so I can by-pass it if I loose the cord or brake the connector when I'm up in the mountain.
I will help you more after the Swedish hockey game =)


could you show how you solved that? especially the bypass
 


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