Flipper
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I want to change my track and according to my service manual will need the following Yamaha tool; YS-01490 (90890-01490) Drive gear socket. The quoted price on this thing is $165 Canadian, which is about what the dealer will charge me for the track change.
I understand the socket is a 36mm. I have checked out a couple of local tool stores and they don't have a socket this big.
Anyone on here do a track change on their RX/RS yet? If so what did you use to remove the nut on the jack shaft in the chain case in order to remove the chain case back side cover?
Thanks
I understand the socket is a 36mm. I have checked out a couple of local tool stores and they don't have a socket this big.
Anyone on here do a track change on their RX/RS yet? If so what did you use to remove the nut on the jack shaft in the chain case in order to remove the chain case back side cover?
Thanks
All you need to do is hold the brake and get a big cresant wrench on it. No need for that tool.
4bangdan
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2000 srx this works on a srx not on a rs or rx. you have to remove disc to remove cover.
trucknut
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putt a rag around the axle and use a pipe wrench to hold it.try not to scratch it it is not real tight.
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Check out http://www.mountainperformance.com or call Micro-Belmont and order the correct tool, it makes it much easier!
Micro Belmont 616-534-9681 or 616-532-2337
Mountain Performance
Part #: gtc-0800
$49.95
Micro Belmont 616-534-9681 or 616-532-2337
Mountain Performance
Part #: gtc-0800
$49.95
I agree the tool above would have made it easier, but here's the alternative cheap method that worked on my 07 Attak with I presume a very similar setup:
For the nut you just need a large adjustable wrench (12 incher is usually big enough to make a 36 mm span).
As for how to hold the shaft from turning when your brake is gone: I just found some small spare machine screws that fit the threads of the windage plates holes for the secondary. Take a bar of scrap angle iron maybe 2 feet long, drill some holes in the right place, and use the little machine screws to attach the bar to the secondary. Rotate it around so the bar braces itself against the foot well of the chassis. Now you have a nice long lever holding your secondary in place that you can use to hold it still while you loosen the nut on the gear with the 12 inch adjustable wrench.
Worked for me. The only thing you can't do with this cheapo rigged setup is return the nut to proper torque specs...but hey, if it's tight it's tight....I personally don't think this nut is that sensitive....just crank it down hard.
For the nut you just need a large adjustable wrench (12 incher is usually big enough to make a 36 mm span).
As for how to hold the shaft from turning when your brake is gone: I just found some small spare machine screws that fit the threads of the windage plates holes for the secondary. Take a bar of scrap angle iron maybe 2 feet long, drill some holes in the right place, and use the little machine screws to attach the bar to the secondary. Rotate it around so the bar braces itself against the foot well of the chassis. Now you have a nice long lever holding your secondary in place that you can use to hold it still while you loosen the nut on the gear with the 12 inch adjustable wrench.
Worked for me. The only thing you can't do with this cheapo rigged setup is return the nut to proper torque specs...but hey, if it's tight it's tight....I personally don't think this nut is that sensitive....just crank it down hard.
otis
Expert
micro belmont
I just ordered the part from micro belmont. Ask for Gary he has 20 of these tools sitting around and is very helpful. Evidently the owner has an RX-1 and made the part since he couldn't find a way to pull the top gear without something custom made.
Mountain performance is out of them with no expected date for them to be in stock.
The picture posted by srxspec shows 2 tools. The larger one goes over the shaft and onto the 36mm bolt. The smaller tool goes on the shaft on the other side. You do have to remove the secondary clutch to get the splines on the shaft. Both are made for 1/2' breaker bars.
Hope this helps. I just went thru all of this and started to strip the 36mm bolt with a crescent wrench. I don't recommend that method.
Otis
I just ordered the part from micro belmont. Ask for Gary he has 20 of these tools sitting around and is very helpful. Evidently the owner has an RX-1 and made the part since he couldn't find a way to pull the top gear without something custom made.
Mountain performance is out of them with no expected date for them to be in stock.
The picture posted by srxspec shows 2 tools. The larger one goes over the shaft and onto the 36mm bolt. The smaller tool goes on the shaft on the other side. You do have to remove the secondary clutch to get the splines on the shaft. Both are made for 1/2' breaker bars.
Hope this helps. I just went thru all of this and started to strip the 36mm bolt with a crescent wrench. I don't recommend that method.
Otis
Flipper
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Thanks guys.
I will give micro belmont a call and see how that works out.
Failing that I will try the angle iron on the windage plate method.
Took apart the chain case tonight so the sled is now sitting in the garage and I am stuck on getting this nut off.
I will give micro belmont a call and see how that works out.
Failing that I will try the angle iron on the windage plate method.
Took apart the chain case tonight so the sled is now sitting in the garage and I am stuck on getting this nut off.
thunder219
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thunder219
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Oak Hill
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Great idea and that is a awsome 
weld!
weld!
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Flipper,
I ordered the tool (both pieces) from micro belmont last week. It should be here in the next few days (shipped through the US postal service).
Assuming it shows up in time, let me know if you want to borrow it.
I ordered the tool (both pieces) from micro belmont last week. It should be here in the next few days (shipped through the US postal service).
Assuming it shows up in time, let me know if you want to borrow it.
Flipper
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Thanks ReX.
I managed to break the nut free with a buddy holding the secondary.
Track change is now complete.
I managed to break the nut free with a buddy holding the secondary.
Track change is now complete.
Did it this way as well.... but no buddy.
Had to rope up tight the wrench on one side as i was carefully driving myself the secondary. Was not really hard as you apply force with two hands on the pulley. I tried to duplicate a similar torque when i put things back.
Had to rope up tight the wrench on one side as i was carefully driving myself the secondary. Was not really hard as you apply force with two hands on the pulley. I tried to duplicate a similar torque when i put things back.
