YAMAHEATER Nice Warm Hands for 03 - Current Yamaha 4 Strokes

rockmeister said:

charger0926 said:

anyone with pics on a attak install?

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Hey Dude!

Get one and bring your sled over!
Have a heated building to do it in.
We can install it together and can get pics of an Attak install for everyone!

Rock

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i would love too but i keep my sled up in michigan,but i might take you up on the install in the off season when i bring it back home to work on

handwarmer-thumbwarmer control

since I didn't see anyone ask yet, I assume that the thumb warmer is controlled the same way as the handwarmers, correct?

I've been waiting for something as simple as this, buy it, easy install, use the factory controls & clean, awesome job!

Thanks!

I went for a quick 10 mile ride last night to test out the my new Warm Hands Controller install out in the cold. My grips were extremely warm. I even had to turn them down. I think I'm going back to a low windshield full time now. Works excellent. Thanks again Rock.

NytroXTX,

The thumbwarmer circuit is not connected to this device. Therefore the thumbwarmer functionality remains unchanged.

Welcome to TY! Please add your location to your profile.

Re: handwarmer-thumbwarmer control

NytroXTX said:

since I didn't see anyone ask yet, I assume that the thumb warmer is controlled the same way as the handwarmers, correct?
I've been waiting for something as simple as this, buy it, easy install, use the factory controls & clean, awesome job!
Thanks!

Click to expand...

You are welcome!
I am just happy to have warm hands, able to help, and be getting my sledding money back! lol
(Put all my winter sledding money into this.)

Blue Dave is correct, the thumb is unchanged.
My experience has been that I leave my thumbwarmer on high at least to start out and it does ok, think it is because it's shielded from the wind most of the time, unlike your fingers.

I had considered this and decided that adding the thumb almost doubles the cost to build and in most cases may not be needed.
Simply trying to keep the cost down so most of us can easily afford warm hands!
You can always add a second one and connect it to the thumbwarmer.
Your thumbwarmer would still use the factory blue handlebar controls etc, same as the handwarmers.

UPDATE:
Myself and many others have noted that the Thumbwarmer is hotter after installing the YAMAHEATER. The YAMAHEATER Controller does not actually change the thumbwarmer at all, therefore I believe it has something todo with the ECU programming. Have no idea if ALL sleds will work this way, just know mine and many others do. In the end, it really doesn't matter as the benefit is a warmer thumb also! I'm ok with that...

i would love too but i keep my sled up in michigan,but i might take you up on the install in the off season when i bring it back home to work on

Click to expand...

You would really want to WAIT to have Warm Hands???
Mine were friggin freezing!
Was sick of waiting!
Had to give ya heck dude, couldn't imagine waiting anymore! lol

Am very happy I acted on this.
Nice and toasty now.

I think that I hear the mail man at my door! LOL!

YAMAHEATER Warm Hands Controller Detailed Install Instructions with Pics on NYTRO

These instructions are for the Basic (hardwired unit).
The Plug & Go Play units are MUCH easier & faster to install, use these directions for connector locations etc, but you do NOT have to do ANY wiring with the Plug & Play unit.

NOTE: You are welcome to quote from this post, just PLEASE keep any quotes specific and short.
There is ALOT of info and details in this post. Thanks!

NOTE: Do NOT cut or connect to ANY wire AT the ECU!
Many of the wire colors are duplicated for different uses at the ECU and will NOT work for our purposes.
ONLY connect to the Yellow/Red and Blue/White (or Blue/Red) at or near the bars.
If in doubt, simply follow the Grip Warmer wires downward, they will lead you directly to the Yellow/Red wire and the Blue/White wire.
(Blue/White is from the highbeam switch)

INSTALLATION:
It is best to do this in a warm garage, if possible, makes it easier on your hands and the plastic crimp tap.
If you have to do it in the cold, put the blue crimp tap in where it is warm, until you are ready to use it.
Broke one in the cold so far, have broken none where it is warm.
Just in case you do break one, Radio Shack carries them.
Radio Shack Part# 64-036
Have worked to ensure that the most likely to be needed parts are easily available to you guys.

Note that in many of the pics, the factory connectors are shown as unplugged, this is for ease of installation & working with the wires, plug them fully back in after you are complete.

Remove "hood" and side panels for easy access.

Locate 2 rubber covers over factory connectors on each side just behind the headlight.


Release and remove the factory ty-wraps that hold the wire harness on the sled on each side and across the middle behind the headlight.

There should be about 6 of them.
Wiggle big rubber covers up (or down) out of the way to allow easy access to the connectors.

This is what you will see.

Note the tape all the way up to the connectors.

Loosely mount WARM HANDS CONTROLLER (WHC), with provided Ty-wraps, on backside of clutch side plastic headlight support as shown.

Mount with wires AWAY from support, and with majority of wires coming out of upper end of WHC.
Note the easy ground connection on airbox mounting bracket.
Connect Black ground wire now. (The Black wire with a ring terminal.) (Helps prevent possible damage to controller due to Static Electricity discharges.)

This is how the controller mount will look from the clutch side when complete.

Would suggest running the wires behind the plastic frame rather than on the outside of it.

BATTERY SIDE OF SLED:
These are the connections we need on the Battery side of the sled.
Note the Yellow/Red & Black into the left connector, and the Blue/White & Green into the right connector.

The Yellow/Red is the wire (downward) from the ECU, and (upward) to the bars.
The Blue/White is the headlight wire, it tells your Warm Hands Controller that the sled is running and it is ok to warm your bars.
(The unit will draw NO current until the sled is running, so it CANNOT run your battery down.)
Some of the wires change color on the Upper side of the connectors, but are still the same wire.
For Example: Blue/White becomes just Blue on the Upper side of the connector.

Take your time and trim the electrical tape and outer wire jacket off the Yellow/Red wire down about 3-4" as shown in the pic below.
Use a sharp razor knife for this, being careful not to cut into the wires themselves.

This is with the outer tape off the bundle.
It is actually pretty easy, especially if it is warm.

With outer jacket trimmed off of Yellow/Red wire to allow us to connect to it.

Note the length of wire that is exposed to make it easy.

Cut and strip (~1/2") just the Yellow/Red wire about 2" away from connector as shown.

Twist the wire strands nice and tight.

The factory wires are pretty small, is best to fold the wire over and get it tight to allow a better physical and electrical connection to the connectors.

This is just before tightening and inserting into red snap crimp connector.
(This pic was on Clutch side of sled, simply shows the process.)

Crimp the supplied snap connectors to each wire.
Do a "tug test" on the connectors to make sure you have them solid.
You would rather it pull off now, if it is going to at all.

Note that the FEMALE goes on the wire FROM the ECU (Downward wire),
and the MALE goes on the wire heading TOWARDS the bars.

Plug in the supplied "Y" cable to allow connecting the other warmer.

You can see the Yellow (ECU IN) wire running to the controller on the other side. (to the clutch side)
The ECU will ONLY connect to the Yellow Controller wire!
All the grip connections are now complete on this side of the sled.

Completed "Y" Cable.


(In the early kits, you don't have a "Y" cable, can simply make one up, using 1 Male & 2 Female snap connectors.)
Radio Shack also carries a quality snap connector.
Radio Shack Part# 68-3085
This includes 5 each of the snap connectors. (Male & Female)
Use 16 or 18ga automotive (also called primary) wire.
(This is much larger than the factory wires and easily large enough for the current load.)
Automotive wire can be found at any auto parts store and/or Automotive department.

You can also use the existing Orange wire, it is long enough to cut it off the controller about 6" away from the controller and use what you cut off to make a jumper.
The ONLY difference is, you will "Y" the connections on the clutch side of the sled instead of the Battery side.

Crimp Tap installed on Blue/White headlight wire. (Blue coming out of connector.)

Crimp Tap is provided pre-greased with dielectric grease.

Plug the Blue Headlight Sense wire from controller into this Tap.

It is highly recommended that you coat any & all electrical connections with Dielectric Grease to help prevent possible corrosion.

CLUTCH SIDE OF SLED:
Trim back tape and jacket 4" from Yellow/Red wire same as the other side.


Cut ONLY Yellow/Red wire approximately 2" from connector.
Strip ONLY wire to connector back about 1/2"
Twist wire strands tight and fold tight as on other side.


Note the "bend" in the wire going down into the harness.
You will not be using this wire and will "cap" it with provided shrink sleeving.
(Update: I now provide an extra Red FEMALE Snap Connector to put on the unused Yellow/Red Wire From the factory Harness. This is used instead of the heatshrink tubing. That way, if you sell your sled in the future, you can remove your YAMAHEATER and simply plug the connectors in and your old sled is same as it came from the factory.
You can then install your YAMAHEATER on your new sled!)

Sliding shrink sleeving over un-used wire to insulate it.



Shrink with heatgun. (Recommend heat gun, lighter will work though)

Install MALE snap connector on wire TO bars.
Tug Test connector after crimping.
Plug into Orange "Y" cable coming from Battery Side.
Warmers are wired!

On to the Power for da HEAT baby!
It is suggested that you remove the ground connection from your battery before doing any wiring and reconnecting last thing when complete.

Neatly route the RED POWER IN wire from the WARM HANDS CONTROLLER behind the headlight and above the existing harnesses to the RED +12v Hot connection on the Solenoid.
(The reason I suggest using the connection on the solenoid; you are much more likely to have to replace the battery in the future, and this makes one less connection to deal with when changing the battery, and helps prevent any possible corrosion due to battery acid.)

This pic is from the Battery Side.
Note that the connection is to the RED lead that goes DIRECTLY to the RED + terminal of the battery!
If you connect to the wrong terminal on your starter, it may keep your starter energized & cause permanent damage to your starter!

Note the neat Ty-wrapping, this is for more than looks, you do NOT want this to rub against anything and short, and/or melt against anything hot!


Select appropriate location for Mode Switch and display LED.
Keep in mind mounting the switch in a sheltered location in case of any possible crash in the future to protect you, and to protect the switch from possible damage in general use.
It is recommended to keep the LED AT LEAST 6" AWAY from the existing factory display.
Your mind will learn to ignore the RED LED, and you don't want to program your mind to ignore ANY Red warning light your sled may indicate.

Drill 1/4" hole for Mode Switch and mount using provided hardware.
The switch is marked with an "off" and "on" position on it.
Mount with "on" up.

Drill 5/16" Hole for display LED and insert LED through mounting hole from the rear. Push LED mount onto LED until you hear it "click". LED should protrude about 1/8" out of the front of the LED mount. Line up the mount with the mounting hole and press mount into place without pressing on the LED itself.
Be careful with the LED leads they are small and can be damaged by forcing them.
It is best to ty-wrap the LED leads to a structure that will not allow them to vibrate much as the sled is in operation.
(If you should require a replacement, they are available.)

The trim ring is a small black plastic part that is easily dropped.
If you do drop it in the bottom of your sled (Done that, lol)
You can get a free replacement by sending me with a SASE to me with a note stating what you need.

Mode Switch and Display LED mounted on sled.

Re-connect ground at battery

TESTING:
Start sled, If you set your bars to ANYTHING but "off" using the handlebar controls, the LED will be Green and your Warmers will function as they always have.

Display LED indicating Green. (Controller is in ECU mode as provided by factory.)

(Factory provided cold mode, lol)

Turn your Bar warmers to "off" using the handlebar controls.
The WARM HANDS CONTROLLER will switch to FULL HEAT MODE, and the display LED will turn RED indicating that the warmers are getting full power.

Warmers set to FULL HEAT MODE. (LED is RED).

When this is RED your hands will be WARM!
Give it a minute and then feel both your grips, they should be nice and Toasty!
(Definitely before your engine temp wait light goes out.)

(In the unlikely event you get ANY Error codes from the sled, immediately shut it down and double-check ALL wiring.)

Flip Mode Switch to off (down).
The warmers will operate EXACTLY as they came from the factory, including being 100% off, when set to OFF from the handlebar controls.
Turn Mode Switch back to ON. (Leave set to ON for normal operation.)

WRAPPING THINGS UP:

Neatly Ty-wrap all wires in place and replace the big rubber covers over the connectors.

Fully TIGHTEN the mounting Ty-wraps on the WHC.
Trim Ty-wraps as required.
Look over all your work and make sure ALL wires are Ty-wrapped neatly and cannot get against anything sharp, hot, or that moves etc.

Pay particular attention to the LED & Switch wires where they meet the LED & Switch, they are small and can only take so much flexing as you operate your sled.
Make SURE they are supported by Ty-wraps to prevent too much flexing and resulting possible wire failure due to vibration and movement.
Re-install factory Releasable wire ties in their proper locations including the new WHC wires in the wire-ties.

A few have asked me about using soldered joints and shrink sleeving.
This is absolutely fine, just make SURE you have connected everything properly.
Have made every effort to make the kit easy to install and easy to remove if needed for any reason.

It should take you less than an hour to install, definitely less than two if you are un-prepared, or simply take your time to do it.
(Probably less time than it took to study this! lol)

Enjoy your Nice Warm Hands!

PS MANY Thanks to Superman for allowing me to take many pics of his sled!

Rock-could you confirm that you received payment via PayPal?

Skip W.
Nytro XTX
NH

Nice Rumble said:

Rock-could you confirm that you received payment?

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Sure did Skip!
Was busy doing Install Instructions.
You will get a Tracking number when yours is shipped.

Rock, My wife decided she wants me to try it first on my 2009 Apex LTX.
She said I ride more & need it more than she does! I didn't know If there is any difference in the 2009 Vector LTX kit & my 2009 Apex LTX kit?

Thanks Again!

Looking forward to warm hands for the first time in 6 years!!!

BR

rockmeister said:

i would love too but i keep my sled up in michigan,but i might take you up on the install in the off season when i bring it back home to work on

Click to expand...

You would really want to WAIT to have Warm Hands???
Mine were friggin freezing!
Was sick of waiting!
Had to give ya heck dude, couldn't imagine waiting anymore! lol

Am very happy I acted on this.
Nice and toasty now.

Click to expand...

i have actually had pretty good luck with my yamaha air deflectors and gloves but this weekend will be the true test -20 windchill in cadillac?
holy !@#$............... unless rock wants to make a roadtrip and install his kit in my attak on saturday. there will be all the free snow that you want.
come on rock what do you think?????

Thanks for the pictures on the Nytro. That makes it a lot easier to do the install.

COLDONE said:

Rock, My wife decided she wants me to try it first on my 2009 Apex LTX.
She said I ride more & need it more than she does! I didn't know If there is any difference in the 2009 Vector LTX kit & my 2009 Apex LTX kit?
Thanks Again!
Looking forward to warm hands for the first time in 6 years!!!
BR

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You are welcome!
Gotta like a wife like that! Pretty cool...
Can you get me a pic of each side of the Vector, under the hood that shows the wiring?
Can get you more detailed info then.
The wire colors are the same, however you MAY need a "Y" Cable.
Thanks!

Hello RockMeister
just sent a pile of paypal bucks in your direction.
My 08 Vector and I will appreciate the Warm Hands.
Bob