I did notice that myself just have to keep turning it down instead of up that is a good thing
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
yup, same thing. I was hesitant to mention it being an neophyte of all things that spark.
I though my Nytro was a cold sled, I rode a Apex fdor the first time on the weekend....brrrrr.
I though my Nytro was a cold sled, I rode a Apex fdor the first time on the weekend....brrrrr.
Rockmeister
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gormleyflyer2002 said:
Hahhahhaa!
I wasn't too positive myself until riding last week at -17 F, and had to turn it DOWN!
Later a couple people mentioned it at the TY ride in Muni.
Haven't had a chance to do any exact measurements of it, but I KNOW the thumbwarmer is warmer!
Did you sell the Apex rider some Warm Hands?
Rockmeister
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This was from another thread, Sledfreak had a very good question.
Good question!
The most accurate answer is that it is very unlikely to hurt anything on your sled.
The unit totally disconnects from the ECU to power the grips.
Any possible error (Error 81) you could get, is that the grips are disconnected.
This is a minor error that the ECU uses to simply shut-off the grips.
The unit will not "backfeed" the ECU which would be a risk to the ECU.
Thought through the failure modes very deeply.
The two most common ways the Warm Hands Controller could fail are; stuck in Full heat mode, or stuck in ECU mode.
Either way, you still have heat to the bars.
ANY use of the stator will increase the chance of eventually wearing it out as it does with anything else.
Have worked very hard not to waste ANY power due to the stator being rather limited to start with.
(The unit uses less than a watt to operate, all the power is sent to the grips where you need it, it won't even get warm in operation, it is that efficient.)
With the Warm Hands Controller, the stator should not be loaded more than 90% on most sleds with full heat to the grips.
(At idle - worst case.)
(Actual load depends on how all the tolerances add up in the system.)
We have worked very hard not to overload your stator.
An overloaded stator will slowly (or possibly quickly), burn off the insulation on the windings, causing shorted windings.
With some windings shorted, the load capability drops, causing even hotter running, causing more shorts and even more heat, eventually causing the stator to go into catastrophic failure. (Letting the magic smoke out, IE Meltdown!)
That is part of the problem I have seen with many aftermarket grip set-ups, almost all of them assume you have unlimited power available, and unfortunately, we don't.
Using an aftermarket set-up without taking into account the actual load on the electrical system is asking for long-term trouble.
Hope this helps!
SledFreak said:rockmeister said:gsxr said:
Hhahahhaha!
You are very welcome!
Glad ya like!
Have also noticed an additional benefit!
The Thumbwarmer is much hotter!
Have you noticed this?
Roc, what's the down fall to this.. Will it hurt the ECU or stator?
Good question!
The most accurate answer is that it is very unlikely to hurt anything on your sled.
The unit totally disconnects from the ECU to power the grips.
Any possible error (Error 81) you could get, is that the grips are disconnected.
This is a minor error that the ECU uses to simply shut-off the grips.
The unit will not "backfeed" the ECU which would be a risk to the ECU.
Thought through the failure modes very deeply.
The two most common ways the Warm Hands Controller could fail are; stuck in Full heat mode, or stuck in ECU mode.
Either way, you still have heat to the bars.
ANY use of the stator will increase the chance of eventually wearing it out as it does with anything else.
Have worked very hard not to waste ANY power due to the stator being rather limited to start with.
(The unit uses less than a watt to operate, all the power is sent to the grips where you need it, it won't even get warm in operation, it is that efficient.)
With the Warm Hands Controller, the stator should not be loaded more than 90% on most sleds with full heat to the grips.
(At idle - worst case.)
(Actual load depends on how all the tolerances add up in the system.)
We have worked very hard not to overload your stator.
An overloaded stator will slowly (or possibly quickly), burn off the insulation on the windings, causing shorted windings.
With some windings shorted, the load capability drops, causing even hotter running, causing more shorts and even more heat, eventually causing the stator to go into catastrophic failure. (Letting the magic smoke out, IE Meltdown!)
That is part of the problem I have seen with many aftermarket grip set-ups, almost all of them assume you have unlimited power available, and unfortunately, we don't.
Using an aftermarket set-up without taking into account the actual load on the electrical system is asking for long-term trouble.
Hope this helps!
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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- Feb 7, 2007
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Addendum to prior post.
Many people have asked/commented about why Yamaha couldn't do this themselves, etc.
Here is what I believe to be the case.
(Contrary to some peoples belief, I believe the engineers at Yamaha are pretty bright & fully capable.)
The Magneto/Stator is pretty well loaded to start with.
(Why it isn't larger, I can't answer.)
Most engineers abide by an 80/20 rule, meaning load things to 80% max and leave 20% capability just in case for a safety factor.
In many cases, this is a corporate policy, and would bet that is the case at Yamaha also.
So when faced with limited available power, they had no choice but to cut power to "non-essentials" when needed to stay with-in the 80/20 rule.
This means they cut power to the grips, rather than the headlight and/or EFI etc.
When you are running full throttle, this isn't a problem, but when idling and/or trail riding this IS a problem!
(And by the time you may be running full tilt, your hands are already freezing with no chance of "catching up"!)
With the Warm Hands Controller, we use some of the safety margin (about half), leaving about a 10% safety margin.
(Keep in mind the 10% is absolute worst case, with EVERYTHING in the system at max worst case specification. Most sleds will have a much larger safety margin, even at idle.)
Once off idle, the safety margin becomes much larger very quickly.
(The exact value will vary from sled to sled due to production tolerances.)
The factory engineers cannot do this due to corporate policies.
The end result is that you still have a reasonable safety margin, AND Warm Hands!
Some of the prior information I know as fact, with experience in the electrics of our sleds, some is likely, knowing how corporations work, some is deductive reasoning and believed to be the case on my part, but not known as fact.
Hope this helps!
Rock
Many people have asked/commented about why Yamaha couldn't do this themselves, etc.
Here is what I believe to be the case.
(Contrary to some peoples belief, I believe the engineers at Yamaha are pretty bright & fully capable.)
The Magneto/Stator is pretty well loaded to start with.
(Why it isn't larger, I can't answer.)
Most engineers abide by an 80/20 rule, meaning load things to 80% max and leave 20% capability just in case for a safety factor.
In many cases, this is a corporate policy, and would bet that is the case at Yamaha also.
So when faced with limited available power, they had no choice but to cut power to "non-essentials" when needed to stay with-in the 80/20 rule.
This means they cut power to the grips, rather than the headlight and/or EFI etc.
When you are running full throttle, this isn't a problem, but when idling and/or trail riding this IS a problem!
(And by the time you may be running full tilt, your hands are already freezing with no chance of "catching up"!)
With the Warm Hands Controller, we use some of the safety margin (about half), leaving about a 10% safety margin.
(Keep in mind the 10% is absolute worst case, with EVERYTHING in the system at max worst case specification. Most sleds will have a much larger safety margin, even at idle.)
Once off idle, the safety margin becomes much larger very quickly.
(The exact value will vary from sled to sled due to production tolerances.)
The factory engineers cannot do this due to corporate policies.
The end result is that you still have a reasonable safety margin, AND Warm Hands!
Some of the prior information I know as fact, with experience in the electrics of our sleds, some is likely, knowing how corporations work, some is deductive reasoning and believed to be the case on my part, but not known as fact.
Hope this helps!
Rock
Rockmeister
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Hey Guys!
I have a few factory "seconds" that I am selling at a discount to TY guys.
A supplier talked me into trying a different potting compound on a few units.
Nothing wrong with it, just don't like the looks & feel of it.
The units work perfectly and have the same one year warranty.
If you were looking for Warm Hands and want to keep your cost down, this will help you!
The units are $20 off, that means if you are a VIP member the unit is $105!
($115 for non-VIP members)
Go here and note that you want one of the seconds:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=587715#587715
Will get you taken care of!
I have a few factory "seconds" that I am selling at a discount to TY guys.
A supplier talked me into trying a different potting compound on a few units.
Nothing wrong with it, just don't like the looks & feel of it.
The units work perfectly and have the same one year warranty.
If you were looking for Warm Hands and want to keep your cost down, this will help you!
The units are $20 off, that means if you are a VIP member the unit is $105!
($115 for non-VIP members)
Go here and note that you want one of the seconds:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=587715#587715
Will get you taken care of!
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
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- 2,187
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- NE Indiana
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- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
Detailed Plug & Play Phazer Installation Instructions with Pics:
(See bottom of this post for additional information on hardwired install.)
Remove Right & Left upper side panels behind headlight.
Remove the Right Panel that covers the battery.
With the Plug & Play Kit, installation is VERY QUICK & EASY!
Simply locate the 3 required connectors on your sled, unplug them & plug into your Yamaheater & you are functional!
The 3 connectors are as follows:
Brake Connector on Left Side (Blue/Red & Green wires)
Left Side Grip Connector.
Right Side Grip Connector.
Release and remove the factory re-useable ty-wraps that hold the wire harness on the sled on each side behind the headlight.
There should be about 6 of them.
Wiggle rubber covers up (or down) out of the way to allow easy access to the connectors.
Left Side:
When you remove the Left side cover you will see the following connectors under the rubber boot:
Note the Black Metal Bracket to the Upper Left of the above pic, this makes a perfect mounting location for your Yamaheater.
Just below the Black bracket is a 2 pin connector with Green & Blue/Red wires, this is the brake connector.
2 connectors below that is a connector with 2 small black wires in one end, that is the Left Side Grip connector.
Yamaheater mounted with 2 provided Ty-Wraps.
Note that one Ty-Wrap goes through mounting holes in left & right side of case and around behind metal bracket.
The other Ty-Wrap goes around top & bottom of case & around metal bracket to keep unit from moving up or down.
Long Black ground wire with the ring terminal goes to bolt under the controller.
(In this pic, the Yamaheater is plugged in and functional already.)
Locate the brake connector on Left side with the Green & Blue/Red wires.
Release the connector & plug Green & Blue wire connector from Yamaheater Controller into the open connectors.
(The wire colors match)
Locate & release the Left Side Grip Connector with the Yellow/Red & Black (or Black/Red instead of Black) wires.
Plug the Grip into the shorter Yamaheater output Connector with Orange & Black Wires.
Plug the Yamaheater Input with Yellow & Black Wires into the Connector with Yellow/Red.
Right Side:
RIGHT SIDE CONNECTIONS:
Right Side Connectors exposed after uncovering from rubber boot:
Early models had a jumper plug for harnesses with Black/Red wires in them.
This is NO longer required.
The connections required are now made by simply plugging the YamaHeater harness into your sled.
Locate the fuse box adjacent to the battery & remove the existing SIG fuse, put in a spare slot & replace with the included Blue 15A fuse.
Note the Blue 15A fuse in the SIG slot.
This replaces the existing 7.5A fuse. Put the 7.5A in an open slot for a spare.
(Your factory SIG fuse value may vary, replace with 15A)
Fuse box is the small black box to the right of the battery and to the left of the oil reservoir on the Right side of the sled.
There is a small release on the back side, push in with finger as you lightly lift on cover.
Mount LED
Drill 5/16" Hole for display LED.
Insert LED through mounting hole from the rear.
Push LED mount onto LED, should protrude about 1/8" out of the front of the LED mount.
Line up the mount with the mounting hole and press mount into place without pressing on the LED itself.
Be careful with the LED leads they are small and can be damaged by forcing them.
It is best to ty-wrap the LED leads to a structure that will not allow them to vibrate much as the sled is in operation.
(If you should require a replacement, they are available.)
The trim ring is a small black plastic part that is easily dropped.
If you do drop it in the bottom of your sled (Done that, lol)
You can get a free replacement LED mount by sending a SASE to me with a note stating what you need.
Mode Switch and Display LED mounted on sled.
You do NOT have to mount the Mode Switch as you will leave it on basically 100% of the time.
Most Ty-Wrap it to the Yamaheater Controller left in the ON position.
Dox had a cool idea, he mounted his Mode LED in the rubber plug on the left side above the tank.
Didn't have to drill a single hole in his sled.
There are NO other wires to connect!
You are connected & functional.
Can perform a functional test at this point, just make sure there is NO risk of any wire or anything else getting into any moving part, including the clutch.
With sled running, turn Blue Handlebar Warmer Switch all the way Down to Zero Bars. (NO Bars on Display.)
Mode LED should turn RED, indicating you are in High Heat Mode.
Wait a few minutes, bars should get Nice & Warm. : )
Toggle up the Blue control to a bar or two, & note that the Mode LED changes to Green to indicate you are in factory ECU mode (ANY bars on display)
Neatly Ty-Wrap all wires in place, protecting them from any sharp edges, sources of heat, etc.
Neatness counts here!
Left Side after wires are all Ty-Wrapped in place.
Let us know how it goes!
Send me any cool pics you have of your install, will include them!
Enjoy your Nice Warm Hands!
Your rides will be MUCH better!
Enjoy...
NOTES:
To install Basic Hardwired Unit on your Phazer, you will find the wires you need located in the information above.
For the exact techniques needed to hardwire Basic Kit see the Nytro instructions here:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=591687#591687
You may have the following short wires coming out of your controller:
Red Do NOT use.
Black Do NOT use.
Brown Do NOT use.
Purple (Green on early models) Communication wire to SLEDSTART Remote Start, connects ONLY to SLEDSTART to pre-warm your bars. (If installed)
Many thanks to Dox06 for allowing me to use his garage & Phazer for install pics!
(See bottom of this post for additional information on hardwired install.)
Remove Right & Left upper side panels behind headlight.
Remove the Right Panel that covers the battery.
With the Plug & Play Kit, installation is VERY QUICK & EASY!
Simply locate the 3 required connectors on your sled, unplug them & plug into your Yamaheater & you are functional!
The 3 connectors are as follows:
Brake Connector on Left Side (Blue/Red & Green wires)
Left Side Grip Connector.
Right Side Grip Connector.
Release and remove the factory re-useable ty-wraps that hold the wire harness on the sled on each side behind the headlight.
There should be about 6 of them.
Wiggle rubber covers up (or down) out of the way to allow easy access to the connectors.
Left Side:
When you remove the Left side cover you will see the following connectors under the rubber boot:
Note the Black Metal Bracket to the Upper Left of the above pic, this makes a perfect mounting location for your Yamaheater.
Just below the Black bracket is a 2 pin connector with Green & Blue/Red wires, this is the brake connector.
2 connectors below that is a connector with 2 small black wires in one end, that is the Left Side Grip connector.
Yamaheater mounted with 2 provided Ty-Wraps.
Note that one Ty-Wrap goes through mounting holes in left & right side of case and around behind metal bracket.
The other Ty-Wrap goes around top & bottom of case & around metal bracket to keep unit from moving up or down.
Long Black ground wire with the ring terminal goes to bolt under the controller.
(In this pic, the Yamaheater is plugged in and functional already.)
Locate the brake connector on Left side with the Green & Blue/Red wires.
Release the connector & plug Green & Blue wire connector from Yamaheater Controller into the open connectors.
(The wire colors match)
Locate & release the Left Side Grip Connector with the Yellow/Red & Black (or Black/Red instead of Black) wires.
Plug the Grip into the shorter Yamaheater output Connector with Orange & Black Wires.
Plug the Yamaheater Input with Yellow & Black Wires into the Connector with Yellow/Red.
Right Side:
RIGHT SIDE CONNECTIONS:
Right Side Connectors exposed after uncovering from rubber boot:
Early models had a jumper plug for harnesses with Black/Red wires in them.
This is NO longer required.
The connections required are now made by simply plugging the YamaHeater harness into your sled.
Locate the fuse box adjacent to the battery & remove the existing SIG fuse, put in a spare slot & replace with the included Blue 15A fuse.
Note the Blue 15A fuse in the SIG slot.
This replaces the existing 7.5A fuse. Put the 7.5A in an open slot for a spare.
(Your factory SIG fuse value may vary, replace with 15A)
Fuse box is the small black box to the right of the battery and to the left of the oil reservoir on the Right side of the sled.
There is a small release on the back side, push in with finger as you lightly lift on cover.
Mount LED
Drill 5/16" Hole for display LED.
Insert LED through mounting hole from the rear.
Push LED mount onto LED, should protrude about 1/8" out of the front of the LED mount.
Line up the mount with the mounting hole and press mount into place without pressing on the LED itself.
Be careful with the LED leads they are small and can be damaged by forcing them.
It is best to ty-wrap the LED leads to a structure that will not allow them to vibrate much as the sled is in operation.
(If you should require a replacement, they are available.)
The trim ring is a small black plastic part that is easily dropped.
If you do drop it in the bottom of your sled (Done that, lol)
You can get a free replacement LED mount by sending a SASE to me with a note stating what you need.
Mode Switch and Display LED mounted on sled.
You do NOT have to mount the Mode Switch as you will leave it on basically 100% of the time.
Most Ty-Wrap it to the Yamaheater Controller left in the ON position.
Dox had a cool idea, he mounted his Mode LED in the rubber plug on the left side above the tank.
Didn't have to drill a single hole in his sled.
There are NO other wires to connect!
You are connected & functional.
Can perform a functional test at this point, just make sure there is NO risk of any wire or anything else getting into any moving part, including the clutch.
With sled running, turn Blue Handlebar Warmer Switch all the way Down to Zero Bars. (NO Bars on Display.)
Mode LED should turn RED, indicating you are in High Heat Mode.
Wait a few minutes, bars should get Nice & Warm. : )
Toggle up the Blue control to a bar or two, & note that the Mode LED changes to Green to indicate you are in factory ECU mode (ANY bars on display)
Neatly Ty-Wrap all wires in place, protecting them from any sharp edges, sources of heat, etc.
Neatness counts here!
Left Side after wires are all Ty-Wrapped in place.
Let us know how it goes!
Send me any cool pics you have of your install, will include them!
Enjoy your Nice Warm Hands!
Your rides will be MUCH better!
Enjoy...
NOTES:
To install Basic Hardwired Unit on your Phazer, you will find the wires you need located in the information above.
For the exact techniques needed to hardwire Basic Kit see the Nytro instructions here:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=591687#591687
You may have the following short wires coming out of your controller:
Red Do NOT use.
Black Do NOT use.
Brown Do NOT use.
Purple (Green on early models) Communication wire to SLEDSTART Remote Start, connects ONLY to SLEDSTART to pre-warm your bars. (If installed)
Many thanks to Dox06 for allowing me to use his garage & Phazer for install pics!
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,187
- Location
- NE Indiana
- Website
- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
PLUG & Go PLAY HARNESS with factory connectors
The Plug & Play Harness makes your install incredibly easy!
Once you have located the connectors on your sled, the wiring takes just minutes, snapping a few connectors together, and you are done!
(Detailed instructions on where the connectors are located can be found in the individual installation instructions for each model.)
IT IS VERY EASY!
If you have an RX or RS, you do NOT need the Plug & Play Harness, yours is already pretty much Plug & Play.
(You don't HAVE to have the Plug & Play Harness for any sled, it just makes the WHC easier & faster to install.)
To install the Plug & Play Kits on most models you simply need to locate the following 3 connectors on your sled:
Brake Connector (Has Blue/Red & Green wires to it) connects to connector with Blue & Green wires on YamaHeater
Left Grip Connector (Has Yellow/Red & Black wires to it) connects to connector with Yellow & Black wires on YamaHeater
Right Grip Connector (Has Yellow/Red & Black wires to it) 2nd connector not used.
The Grip connectors have 2 small Black wires, they plug into the connectors with Orange & Black wires from your YamaHeater.
Unplug Brake connector & Plug Yamaheater Connectors with Blue & Green wires into open Brake Connectors.
Unplug Left side grip connector & Plug Connector from Yamaheater with Yellow & Black Wires into connector with Yellow/Red & Black from harness.
Plug Left side grip connector into shorter connector from Yamaheater. (with Orange & Black wires)
Unplug right side grip connector & plug grip into longer Yamaheater connector. (with Orange & Black wires)
You will not use the harness connector with Yellow/Red & Black wires on this side.
Connect Black wire with Ring Terminal to ground bolt.
On later models, even your power is already connected with these simple plug-ins!
If there is a mini-blade Blue 15A fuse included in your package, replace the SIG fuse on your sled with the 15A fuse.
Put the old fuse in a spare slot in your fusebox.
On earlier models, connect red wire with fuseholder to +12 source as shown in individual instructions.
IF you have a SLEDSTART Remote Start, connect the Purple Wire to the SLEDSTART module Purple wire to give you Autowarm Hands!
If you do not have a SLEDSTART, you will not use the purple wire.
It really IS that easy!
(As someone called it, Plug & Go Play!)
Just a few things to watch for.
In the pic above, the lower connector(Blue & Green wires), connects into the brake switch wires.
The brake switch wires are Blue/Red and Green.
(Double-check that the Blue/Red does indeed connect to Blue and that Green goes to Green.)
On some sleds, the factory wasn't totally consistent about which wire went where into the connectors.
Your grips don't care which way they are wired, however your Warm Hands Controller DOES care!
If the wires are reversed on the connectors from the factory, you will get an Error 81 when you connect the WHC.
(Grip warmers disconnected Error.)
This seems to be especially prevalent with the '06 update harness.
When you connect the Plug & Play Harness, the connectors may look like this:
Note that Yellow/Red does NOT go to Yellow, and Black does NOT go to Black.
This is INCORRECT, and will give you an Error.
This is the way the wires into and out of the connectors should look:
Note the Yellow/Red connects to Yellow, and Black connects to Black.
This is CORRECT.
To correct this you need a specialized tool...
A safety pin. lol
A thin small sharp ice pick, or very small jewelers screwdriver will work also.
If you look closely into the end of the connector from the factory wire harness, you will see a small release next to the connector terminals.
The release is below the connector pin in the pic above.
Use the safety pin (or other appropriate tool) to push the release away from the terminal, as you hold the release back, lightly pull the terminal out of the connector, as shown here.
If the terminal does not pull out with light pressure, you have not fully released it.
When the terminal releases, it will look like this.
Release both the Yellow/Red and the Black.
Re-install both terminals into the correct position by applying light pressure and sliding into the connector until they "click" into place.
If they do not slide into the connector easily, flip the terminal over and try again, they will only go in one way, and only require light pressure to insert them.
Double-check that Yellow/Red does indeed go to Yellow, and Black goes to Black, when the connectors are snapped together.
SERIES and PARALLEL Grip Wiring using the Plug & Play Harness
If your grips are wired in Parallel you will have Yellow/Red and a solid black wire into each grip connector from the main wiring harness.
(NO Black/Red)
(You will only use one of the connectors from the main wiring harness.)
(You do not need to change anything, just double-check that the wires are in the correct position in the connector from the factory as shown above.)
Some models have the grips wired in Series.
You can tell the ones that are in Series by locating the Black/Red wire that jumpers between both grip connectors.
(Many '06 Apexes and some new Phazer models are wired this way.)
The Plug & Play Quick Connect Harness uses one connector for input, and the wires into that connector need to be Yellow/Red and solid Black from the main harness.
If yours has a Black/Red, you can release the Black/Red from both connectors as shown above.
Then release the Black from it's connector and re-insert Black into the connector with Yellow/Red.
This will give you one connector to connect the Plug and Play Harness into.
Confirm that the Yellow/Red and Black wires are in the correct position as shown above.
Enjoy your Warm Hands!
Many Thanks to Butch32 for allowing me use of his garage to find out why his was erroring with the switched wire position.
The Plug & Play Harness makes your install incredibly easy!
Once you have located the connectors on your sled, the wiring takes just minutes, snapping a few connectors together, and you are done!
(Detailed instructions on where the connectors are located can be found in the individual installation instructions for each model.)
IT IS VERY EASY!
If you have an RX or RS, you do NOT need the Plug & Play Harness, yours is already pretty much Plug & Play.
(You don't HAVE to have the Plug & Play Harness for any sled, it just makes the WHC easier & faster to install.)
To install the Plug & Play Kits on most models you simply need to locate the following 3 connectors on your sled:
Brake Connector (Has Blue/Red & Green wires to it) connects to connector with Blue & Green wires on YamaHeater
Left Grip Connector (Has Yellow/Red & Black wires to it) connects to connector with Yellow & Black wires on YamaHeater
Right Grip Connector (Has Yellow/Red & Black wires to it) 2nd connector not used.
The Grip connectors have 2 small Black wires, they plug into the connectors with Orange & Black wires from your YamaHeater.
Unplug Brake connector & Plug Yamaheater Connectors with Blue & Green wires into open Brake Connectors.
Unplug Left side grip connector & Plug Connector from Yamaheater with Yellow & Black Wires into connector with Yellow/Red & Black from harness.
Plug Left side grip connector into shorter connector from Yamaheater. (with Orange & Black wires)
Unplug right side grip connector & plug grip into longer Yamaheater connector. (with Orange & Black wires)
You will not use the harness connector with Yellow/Red & Black wires on this side.
Connect Black wire with Ring Terminal to ground bolt.
On later models, even your power is already connected with these simple plug-ins!
If there is a mini-blade Blue 15A fuse included in your package, replace the SIG fuse on your sled with the 15A fuse.
Put the old fuse in a spare slot in your fusebox.
On earlier models, connect red wire with fuseholder to +12 source as shown in individual instructions.
IF you have a SLEDSTART Remote Start, connect the Purple Wire to the SLEDSTART module Purple wire to give you Autowarm Hands!
If you do not have a SLEDSTART, you will not use the purple wire.
It really IS that easy!
(As someone called it, Plug & Go Play!)
Just a few things to watch for.
In the pic above, the lower connector(Blue & Green wires), connects into the brake switch wires.
The brake switch wires are Blue/Red and Green.
(Double-check that the Blue/Red does indeed connect to Blue and that Green goes to Green.)
On some sleds, the factory wasn't totally consistent about which wire went where into the connectors.
Your grips don't care which way they are wired, however your Warm Hands Controller DOES care!
If the wires are reversed on the connectors from the factory, you will get an Error 81 when you connect the WHC.
(Grip warmers disconnected Error.)
This seems to be especially prevalent with the '06 update harness.
When you connect the Plug & Play Harness, the connectors may look like this:
Note that Yellow/Red does NOT go to Yellow, and Black does NOT go to Black.
This is INCORRECT, and will give you an Error.
This is the way the wires into and out of the connectors should look:
Note the Yellow/Red connects to Yellow, and Black connects to Black.
This is CORRECT.
To correct this you need a specialized tool...
A safety pin. lol
A thin small sharp ice pick, or very small jewelers screwdriver will work also.
If you look closely into the end of the connector from the factory wire harness, you will see a small release next to the connector terminals.
The release is below the connector pin in the pic above.
Use the safety pin (or other appropriate tool) to push the release away from the terminal, as you hold the release back, lightly pull the terminal out of the connector, as shown here.
If the terminal does not pull out with light pressure, you have not fully released it.
When the terminal releases, it will look like this.
Release both the Yellow/Red and the Black.
Re-install both terminals into the correct position by applying light pressure and sliding into the connector until they "click" into place.
If they do not slide into the connector easily, flip the terminal over and try again, they will only go in one way, and only require light pressure to insert them.
Double-check that Yellow/Red does indeed go to Yellow, and Black goes to Black, when the connectors are snapped together.
SERIES and PARALLEL Grip Wiring using the Plug & Play Harness
If your grips are wired in Parallel you will have Yellow/Red and a solid black wire into each grip connector from the main wiring harness.
(NO Black/Red)
(You will only use one of the connectors from the main wiring harness.)
(You do not need to change anything, just double-check that the wires are in the correct position in the connector from the factory as shown above.)
Some models have the grips wired in Series.
You can tell the ones that are in Series by locating the Black/Red wire that jumpers between both grip connectors.
(Many '06 Apexes and some new Phazer models are wired this way.)
The Plug & Play Quick Connect Harness uses one connector for input, and the wires into that connector need to be Yellow/Red and solid Black from the main harness.
If yours has a Black/Red, you can release the Black/Red from both connectors as shown above.
Then release the Black from it's connector and re-insert Black into the connector with Yellow/Red.
This will give you one connector to connect the Plug and Play Harness into.
Confirm that the Yellow/Red and Black wires are in the correct position as shown above.
Enjoy your Warm Hands!
Many Thanks to Butch32 for allowing me use of his garage to find out why his was erroring with the switched wire position.
Mtnviper
Vendor
Two thumbs up Rock 
First time I've been on a ride, that I DIDN'T have to stop and warm my frozen digits on the exhaust!
First time I've been on a ride, that I DIDN'T have to stop and warm my frozen digits on the exhaust! danjpohl
Pro
Warmers on 2009 Nytro XTX
I had a 98 yamaha 600 xtc, hand warmers were great! Pretty much never used them dialed all the way up.
So I upgraded to a 09 Nytro XTX and first weekend out on the trails was 30 plus Fahrenheit and I found myself having the warmers cranked up most of the time around 75%!!!
Thought it was my sled then started to do some research and found out they suck.
Ordered from Rock on Thursday night around 8 PM and got a phone call from him asking for my mailing address I forgot to include 5 minutes after ordering. I paid the extra $10 for rush shipping and I had them in mpls by 10 am Saturday.
Install seemed to go pretty smooth. Double checked wiring and started it up and was getting error 81. Checked wiring again and it was correct.
Sent Rock an email and shortly after it he called me and found out my sled was one of those where the wires get flip flopped. A few seconds later it was fixed and warmers got hot real fast!
I will test it out this weekend in near 0 temps.
GREAT SUPPORT ON THE PRODUCT!!! I do like also how Rock is helping out some people in need of work with this product.
THANKS
I had a 98 yamaha 600 xtc, hand warmers were great! Pretty much never used them dialed all the way up.
So I upgraded to a 09 Nytro XTX and first weekend out on the trails was 30 plus Fahrenheit and I found myself having the warmers cranked up most of the time around 75%!!!
Thought it was my sled then started to do some research and found out they suck.
Ordered from Rock on Thursday night around 8 PM and got a phone call from him asking for my mailing address I forgot to include 5 minutes after ordering. I paid the extra $10 for rush shipping and I had them in mpls by 10 am Saturday.
Install seemed to go pretty smooth. Double checked wiring and started it up and was getting error 81. Checked wiring again and it was correct.
Sent Rock an email and shortly after it he called me and found out my sled was one of those where the wires get flip flopped. A few seconds later it was fixed and warmers got hot real fast!
I will test it out this weekend in near 0 temps.
GREAT SUPPORT ON THE PRODUCT!!! I do like also how Rock is helping out some people in need of work with this product.
THANKS
Ride-N-Rice
Extreme
HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN, IT'S NICE TO BE WARM AGAIN!!!
Hats off to you Rock (I mean gloves ) what an improvement. To sit in the driveway and let other get there hands warm on your bars at idle, WOW.
Didn't even bother me that I got my AZZ kicked on the lake because my hands were warm oh and my track took a trip south.
You know what's really nice IT DOES WHAT IT SAYS IT WILL DO. What the heck kind of policy is your business running on? You may get sued? Just kidding it's a great product and I (Mr. have trouble with everything I buy) recommend it 100%
Hats off to you Rock (I mean gloves
) what an improvement. To sit in the driveway and let other get there hands warm on your bars at idle, WOW.Didn't even bother me that I got my AZZ kicked on the lake because my hands were warm oh and my track took a trip south.
You know what's really nice IT DOES WHAT IT SAYS IT WILL DO. What the heck kind of policy is your business running on? You may get sued? Just kidding it's a great product and I (Mr. have trouble with everything I buy) recommend it 100%
Ordered a kit last night, I can not wait to install and try this weekend. Really looking forward to them on the Trek over the Top in a few weeks.
I might have missed it in the post. Will this also work on my Wifes 05 Vector?
Thanks
I might have missed it in the post. Will this also work on my Wifes 05 Vector?
Thanks
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,187
- Location
- NE Indiana
- Website
- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
swelly said:
Yes, it will work on her Vector, will work on ANY of the 4-strokes.
It went out this morning.
Over the top?
I GOTTA KNOW! lol
It is a blast, this will be my 13th or 14th year of doing it.
You leave Tok, AK on a Thurs morn and get to Dawson City, Yukon, Canada in the after noon. Have all good times and ride back on Sunday AM. It is only about 200 miles each way and about 90% is groomed.
Check it out @ http://www.trekoverthetop.com/
The town opens up for us and life is good.
Thanks again
You leave Tok, AK on a Thurs morn and get to Dawson City, Yukon, Canada in the after noon. Have all good times and ride back on Sunday AM. It is only about 200 miles each way and about 90% is groomed.
Check it out @ http://www.trekoverthetop.com/
The town opens up for us and life is good.
Thanks again
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,187
- Location
- NE Indiana
- Website
- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
Waaaay cool!
Funny, I have shipped Controllers all over the world, yet you are the first one in Alaska!
Funny, I have shipped Controllers all over the world, yet you are the first one in Alaska!
