IFlyEm
Expert
Hey guys,
I am going to be adjusting my ski alignment and I need to get into the lower part of the chassis. How much of the sled do I need to break the sled down to get in there to loosen up the jam nut?
I am not seeing where I can get the bottom plastic skid plate off.
Any input?
Thanks!
I am going to be adjusting my ski alignment and I need to get into the lower part of the chassis. How much of the sled do I need to break the sled down to get in there to loosen up the jam nut?
I am not seeing where I can get the bottom plastic skid plate off.
Any input?
Thanks!
IFlyEm
Expert
Ok. I got the skid plate off. It knowing how the pins work is a BIG help!
Unfortunately it didnt help. There is a steel chassis plate there so I STILL can't access the jam nut. :|
So it looks like I have to take the headlight assy and air box off to get to them?
If thats so I hope the alignment is right the first time!!!
Unfortunately it didnt help. There is a steel chassis plate there so I STILL can't access the jam nut. :|
So it looks like I have to take the headlight assy and air box off to get to them?
If thats so I hope the alignment is right the first time!!!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Adjust it with the outer tie rod end. Just remove the bolt the goes through the rod end and hold the tie rod out of the spindle while spinning the rod end in or out. No need to get inside the sled.
IFlyEm
Expert
So I should take the ball joint off instead of spinning the tie rod?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Yes, just spin the rod end in or out instead of messing with the tie rod.
IFlyEm
Expert
Gotcha!
Thanks!
Now I can go put my dang panels back on!!
Thanks!
Now I can go put my dang panels back on!!
TheGreatPumkin
Extreme
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If you adjust your toe by only utilizing the outer ball joint your chances of getting it set just right are limited by one full turn of the ball joint. Thats a lot of thread change (and toe variation) and not very accurate in my eyes.
On my 08', if I pull the hood and the tool bag in the nose I can get to the inner locknuts with a 14mm. I can barely get the wrench on the nut but then with another 14mm on the our tie-rod flat itself, you can loosen and/or tighten the inner nut.
If you are going to bother checking/setting your alignment, you should go the extra mile and get it right!
On my 08', if I pull the hood and the tool bag in the nose I can get to the inner locknuts with a 14mm. I can barely get the wrench on the nut but then with another 14mm on the our tie-rod flat itself, you can loosen and/or tighten the inner nut.
If you are going to bother checking/setting your alignment, you should go the extra mile and get it right!
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
TheGreatPumkin said:
Nope. 1/2 turn is your best resolution. I think this method is fine as long as you pay close attention to how much of the rod end is engaged with the tie rod. At a minimum you want 2-full diameters of the rod end (16mm if that's an 8mm thread) engaged with the tie rod. If you need to take a big swing at the toe out, it's best to use both ends for the adjustment.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
The correct way is to loosen both ends. Removing the airbox gives you the access you need. Do it it once and do it right.
IFlyEm
Expert
I agree that loosening both give you the highest resolution. However I was able to get the 1/2 inch toe out exactly by just using the one side. Both of my ball joints are are out 2 1/2 turns from all the way in.
Works for me!
Works for me!
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
IFlyEm said:Works for me!
Thats good. You're the one fly'in it!!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
How is only adjusting the outer rod end the wrong way? If you have sufficient thread engagement there's nothing wrong with it. The amount you change the toe settings by rotating the rod end a 1/2 turn is so minimal you can still get extremely close on the alignment.
IFlyEm
Expert
1/2 turn appears to be about 1/8" adjustment per ski.
As for thread engagement I should be ok. For some reason my sled came from the dealer with 1 3/8" toe out. I reduced it to 1/2" toe out. So I am better than I was as far as amount if thread used.
Its interesting that the service manual calls for a stock setting of 0 - 15 mm or 0" - 0.59" Mine wasn't even in that ballpark.
I wonder if things like this contribute to the variance in how people perceive the handling on this sled.
As for thread engagement I should be ok. For some reason my sled came from the dealer with 1 3/8" toe out. I reduced it to 1/2" toe out. So I am better than I was as far as amount if thread used.
Its interesting that the service manual calls for a stock setting of 0 - 15 mm or 0" - 0.59" Mine wasn't even in that ballpark.
I wonder if things like this contribute to the variance in how people perceive the handling on this sled.
