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WarriorPilot · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:24 pm Post subject:

anyone out there with a later model Apex with the almost -straight out snow flap, try bending it back in as close to vertical as possible,that will hold more snow in the tunnel, there is another thread in here somewhere about this

MrSled · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:27 pm Post subject:

I can get 12 to 1500 miles on Mono Skids with a few simple changes.... track tension, break in and 2 extra idlers.

WarriorPilot · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:34 pm Post subject:

I agree, also don't forget limiter strap position,I find the best ride quality at the longer pos. in the 2nd holes(I think factory setting) but , I see accelerated wear just ahead of the fwd idlers at that setting

apltx08 · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:53 pm Post subject:

Track tension also makes a big difference, a loose track tends to wear on REAR part and tighter on the front part, so you need that SWEET spot, I noticed with a 22lbs weight with 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" is ideal, you get a nice even wear, I've got over 6000kms on a set and are barely worn on a completly STOCK suspension...my track is OEM clipped every 3rd window remainder closed, but I do have a good set of SCRATCHER for when snow gets hard packed or icy I drop them down and makes a BIG difference.

WarriorPilot · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:51 pm Post subject:

Right , forgot to mention that, that's why I just installed a set of Wahl Bros. no-slip extroverts so I can run the track a little looser,fully clipped mine last year as well, I found that on my prev.Yam., a 2004 Warrior, (partialy clipped)the clips wear out quickly and start to break off the guides, I fully clipped that one as well,now I see the 2010 Apexes are fully clipped with extroverts, Hmmm ...

WarriorPilot · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:55 pm Post subject:

woolyviper · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:57 pm Post subject:

after reading this (i've seen this before) here is my theory.

if you read the part that said snow doesn't cool but water does, that is very important. i had an 03 viper, and it was heavy as hell and hyfax lasted more than 1500 miles. if you compare the tunnel design of the viper vs a fx style sled, you will quickly see the differences - more room inside the tunnel - the track to exchanger distances are greater in the newer sleds and the rear of the tunnel was closer to the track - if any of you had a viper and had a rear exchanger, you know you needed protectors or it was gone. the viper was more efficient at turning snow into water and that was done close enough to the track that it made it's way into the track lubricating the hyfax. the viper was also closer to the ground and the air flow would push the water off of the heat exchanger onto the track. i suspect the fx style sleds airflow under the sled is further down and the water may not hit the track in the right place to be introduced into the suspension. I believe that if you could divert air into the front of the tunnel below the exchanger that create a swirling effect in the front of the tunnel it would then introduce enough water into the suspension to help the hyax wear. i have a friend with an 05 switchback that has almost 5,000 miles on it and is still running the same hyfax. the switchback is lower to the ground more like the viper. i think this is the starting point to increasing the longevity of the hyfax on the fx model sleds.

WarriorPilot · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 6:05 pm Post subject:

that makes sense to me, but , I have some friends that ride late model fan-cooled Ski-doos and Polaris, no heat exchangers or under seat exhaust...no problems with slide wear!!!

bashley · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:09 pm Post subject:

I rode one season, (the first one with my Attak), with a buddy who had an '03 RMK Vert. Escape 153" X 2". The tunnel on those things were so far tipped up in the back nothing was close to the track, he had 3/4" more lug, and rode the same areas I did, in addition to the mountains. His Hyfaxes looked barely worn at 3500 miles and mine were shot before 1000. I've only got 2800 miles on my sled now and am on my 3rd set.

I do believe that all makes now might have more wear due to weight, power, lugs, etc. but it's minimal. There is, without a doubt, a design flaw in the Yammi's that eat these things up, but personally I have accepted this, and other small annoyances, in return for reliability, power, and overall quality.

woolyviper · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:40 pm Post subject:

i bet no one on a yamaha has ever had to change the hyfax on the trail...

Daranello · Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:54 pm Post subject:

woolyviper · Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:15 pm Post subject:

i thinks when you break them in right - getting them hot and then cooling them, you are conforming them to the rail so that they dissipate heat into the rail. another "wooly" theory put out there.

BombaPolaYama · Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:16 am Post subject:

bluemonster156 · Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:44 pm Post subject:

when you put new hyfax on..your supposed to run the sled on a packed surface to get them hoy and then ride the sled into powder snow and cool them down.I put new hyfax on a few weeks back and didn't follow that procedure..but have my track tension as one fellow mentioned 1.25 inch hang at 22 lbs.Also have oversized rear and idlers and marginal wheel up front.Now equip this with ice scratchers and my hyfax has not worn down any spot yet..truely straight as day one.I have the graphite type of hyfax.

Grimm · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:19 am Post subject:

And you probably aren't riding a 4 stroke Yamaha either.