How to reassemble the secondary clutch

I took a video on how to reassemble the secondary clutch once I figured it out so It can be easier for those who have never done it before.

When you disassemble the secondary, take note of the locations of every washer.

Make sure you use a new circlip when you reassemble the clutch. Also when you look at the circlip on the inside one edge of the clip is sharp and the other side it round. Make sure when you install the clip the sharp edge is facing up. I had to run my figure along the inside to feel the sharp edge.

Stock spring position for the Phazer is A-1 for all models except for the MTX is B-1

Now here are the steps:

1. Place the sheave with the shaft down on the roll of tape with the shaft facing up. Place the washer that was there when you took the clutch apart.

2. Place the other sheave onto the shaft.

3. If you look down into the sheave you will see letters A,B and C. Place the spring in the corresponding hole (A,B or C)

3. Slide the helix onto the shaft while aligning the other end of the spring with the corresponding hole (Stock position is 1). Make sure that the grooves on the inside of the helix slide into the grooves on the shaft, but not so far as the tips of the helix has passed the buttons on the sheave that is on top.

4.Have someone hold the sheave that is on the bottom. Grab hold of the top sheave and rotate counter-clockwise from about 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn.

Edit for clarification: In the service manual it says to turn 45,50, or 55 degrees for different spring positions. What you are trying to do is get the helix on the other side of the buttons so that the helix will be against the buttons once you push down the helix. What the degrees are is how far you will end up needing to turn before the helix will pass that point with each given spring position.

5. Push down on the helix enough to place the washer and circlip onto the shaft.

That is all there is to it!

I apologize I had already placed the washer from step 1 and my arm got in the way when I went to put the washer in step 5.

Click on the video to open it up.



I hope this helps!

Good job.

Has anyone tried a newer secondary with the helix on the outside? from a vmax or something? Any performance changes or just easier to change the settings?

I forgot, those are splined, so there is no key-way.
Put it on the floor and you can hold the helix down with your knee if no one is around to help.
That little "slide/turn check" thing he did with the snap ring at the end is exactly what i do! Makes sure it's in there properly.
Pretty cool Yamahas.

so when you twist the top sheave you just twist until the buttons match up with the helix? i wanna take mine apart and polish it cuz theres greese all over for some reason

smalltownpower said:

so when you twist the top sheave you just twist until the buttons match up with the helix? i wanna take mine apart and polish it cuz theres greese all over for some reason

Click to expand...

Yes you want to turn it enough so that the helix goes past the buttons. As long as you turn it past the buttons your good to go it will line itself up once you have the clip it and let it go.

When I had first taken it apart there was grease everywhere, a real mess. The helix would not turn all that great. I am amazed how it seems to just glide now.

Hope that helps.

how hard is it to replace the buttons if they are chewed up from having gunk in there. can they be punched out from the backside? i've read the service manual and it states to twist it 45, 50, 55 degree's for different models, how important is this?

How much wrap did you put on the spring in degrees?

The buttons are very easy to take out. I just pulled it out with my figures. I have just over 5000km's on my phazer and the buttons where still smooth and had lots of material left.

I am not sure what the reason for the 45,50,55 degrees because every tine I would try it, it would just snap back into the same position.

Maybe someone could shed some light on the specific degrees?

I am not 100% sure but I think it has to do with resisting the belt from dropping too deep to quickly and in a sense going into too high of a gear to quickly and bogging your engine down. I also believe the more twist the faster the backshift as well.

I thought that as long as the helix's ramps where turned enough to pass the buttons it was all it needed? Are the instructions I posted wrong?

i'm assuming how fast your belt drops and whether or not it boggs out your engine determines what position your spring is in (a1 b1 ect.)

smalltownpower said:

i'm assuming how fast your belt drops and whether or not it boggs out your engine determines what position your spring is in (a1 b1 ect.)

Click to expand...

yea, I thought the different spring positions is what would give it more "twisting action"

I know you are supposed to wrap the spring to a certain degree such as 3 + 3 = 60 degrees.

ya thats like the vectors n stuff. b3 would be 3+3x10=60 degree's of wrap. in my case b1 would be 2+1x10=20 degree's wrap. somthings not making sence right now!!

yamahas said:

I thought that as long as the helix's ramps where turned enough to pass the buttons it was all it needed? Are the instructions I posted wrong?

Click to expand...

Here yamahas check this link out I found in the TY Tech pages it explains the setting of the twist in degrees and how to do it.


http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... onents.htm