black knight
Expert
Went to start it today and all i got was clicking at the starter silenoid. Took light pod off and air box to see if fuse is blown and find a rodent nest in the front of the machine. after cleaning it out found it had chewed some of the wires. Theres a grounding block and 2 other similar blocks and then another similar block with 4 wires going into it but its flat. one wire chewed threw on the none grounding block and 2 chewed threw on the grounding block. Got everything spliced back together and and sodered electric taped. put some dielectric grease on the 6 prong pins so they wouldn't corrode like other blocks similar have on me.
Put it all back together without the light pod on and went to start it and it kicked a couple of times started then cut out on a couple cylinders and quit.
Rechecked everything and forgot to hook the wire back up to the oil tank.
Put the light pod on to see if i could get a code and tried it again.Only fires on one cylinder. pulled all plugs and all but 1 was dry so i replaced with new plug and tried again. fired on 1 maybe 2 cylinders but nothing. No code but when i turn ignition on the red light comes on to indicate cold and the yellow light comes on to indicate low fuel then after a couple seconds the yellow light goes out and i gain a bar on the fuel. Turn the key and the hole time its turning over the yellow light is on and the engine symbol is on. Still know code. fusses are fine and i can't see any other chewed wires. Still know codes.
Any Ideas????
I threw a couple of pictures on of where the little b#@$%#d made his nest and the wires
Thanks in advance
Put it all back together without the light pod on and went to start it and it kicked a couple of times started then cut out on a couple cylinders and quit.
Rechecked everything and forgot to hook the wire back up to the oil tank.
Put the light pod on to see if i could get a code and tried it again.Only fires on one cylinder. pulled all plugs and all but 1 was dry so i replaced with new plug and tried again. fired on 1 maybe 2 cylinders but nothing. No code but when i turn ignition on the red light comes on to indicate cold and the yellow light comes on to indicate low fuel then after a couple seconds the yellow light goes out and i gain a bar on the fuel. Turn the key and the hole time its turning over the yellow light is on and the engine symbol is on. Still know code. fusses are fine and i can't see any other chewed wires. Still know codes.
Any Ideas????
I threw a couple of pictures on of where the little b#@$%#d made his nest and the wires
Thanks in advance
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TY 4 Stroke God
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I would look over the hole area they ted. To eat more then you can see. Did you look for a short somewhere.
black knight
Expert
know ,can't find any more chewed wires. Is it possible something got fried while i was trying to start or when the wires where severed. I couldn't find any arcing on the wires or chassy.
Any suggestions where to start.
I hate electrical issues
Thanks
Any suggestions where to start.
I hate electrical issues
Thanks
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Since riding is done and you got nothing but time, Id say a good spot to begin would be to contact a used parts dealer (some places near Toronto are good, BTSP near northbay, and LANEO off this site) and see if you can completely replace that segment of cable, including all the connnectors etc..
Also, im assuming that the rodents nest is a recent event? If thats the case, and if you didnt already check, there might be more activity in your airbox or in the exhaust (to a lesser extent)
Also, im assuming that the rodents nest is a recent event? If thats the case, and if you didnt already check, there might be more activity in your airbox or in the exhaust (to a lesser extent)
duste
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More electrical headaches there Blacknight? It's sounds like the stator is starting to go south. There is a real good post on here for the proper way to check the stator with the resistances for the stator. With the chewed wires it could be a pain but the stator check is fast and easy so I think it's worth a try. If if is the stator do NOT get the ones selling out of Quebec for 120 bucks new, I have heard nothing good about them at all.
I put moth balls all around and inside the engine area when my sled is stored and has worked pretty good to keep the critters away, I learned that after they ate some of my old MF444
I put moth balls all around and inside the engine area when my sled is stored and has worked pretty good to keep the critters away, I learned that after they ate some of my old MF444
black knight
Expert
Ya I've checked everywhere for more damage including the air box,but not the exhaust. Running the codes on the self diagnostic mode the other day some old codes came up and a new one for the cylinder position sensor as well as code 50 not showing up at all which points to the E.C.U. as per the manual.
From the wiring diagram it looks like he hit the section of the harness that covers a bunch of the FI stuff. Will find the post on the stator.and check.
Its only been sitting for a month but the nest that came out of there was like it had been sitting for 10 years. Moth balls to go in.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
From the wiring diagram it looks like he hit the section of the harness that covers a bunch of the FI stuff. Will find the post on the stator.and check.
Its only been sitting for a month but the nest that came out of there was like it had been sitting for 10 years. Moth balls to go in.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
black knight said:
This nest just happened this spring?
I thought most mice issues began in the fall when they are looking to hunker down for the winter?
I had better recheck my XLT and make sure it is cover with enough moth ballls and Bounce sheets, been using these to products for the last few years and so far so good, even with the sled and closed in trailer sitting outside in the country.
Good luck with your issue, hopefully you get it figured out.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
duste said:
Here is the link he was talking about. Hopefully its not the stator, not exactly the cheapest thing ever to replace...
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ght=stator
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duste said:
Are these the same as the re-wound stators? My yammy and cat dealer has sent out my stator of my old cat to a company and they re wound it and sent it back. It is not 100% guaranteed to work but was a fraction of the price of a new one. I took the risk and it worked perfectly after. If the problem is the stator it may be an avenue to consider? Also Royal may have a new stator for much cheaper then one from Yamaha, just a thought.
duste
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RM stator out of Quebec Canada is the place I was reffering to. A shop here warned me about them, they have had no luck at all with thier stators, they don't last long and he refuses to put one on if it was bought by a customer . I got mine used from a wrecked sled with 500miles on it for 155 shipped off of Ebay.
If it's the stator Blacknight at least it an APEX and not a Vector, apex is a 1hr swap and the vector has to have the engine raised.
If it's the stator Blacknight at least it an APEX and not a Vector, apex is a 1hr swap and the vector has to have the engine raised.
black knight
Expert
thanks for the replies guys.Yamahamer i was looking for that post thanks.
My crankshaft position sencor speced out good
i have 2 sencors that are not in spec with the manual but when they are below value a fail safe mode is to kick in and start and run are still possible.Atmospheric sensor and intake air pressure sensor. acording to the mannual.
My crankshaft position sencor speced out good
i have 2 sencors that are not in spec with the manual but when they are below value a fail safe mode is to kick in and start and run are still possible.Atmospheric sensor and intake air pressure sensor. acording to the mannual.
black knight
Expert
Well i cheeked my stator across the 3 white wires that clip into the regulator in the nose of the sled and this is what i got.
Forgive my ignorence with the multy meter i'll give you all the settings i tried in ohms
Positive in the middle and black lead to right and left.
2000k = 0
200k = 0
20k = 0
2000 = 001
200 = 00.8
Someone de-code that for me
Forgive my ignorence with the multy meter i'll give you all the settings i tried in ohms
Positive in the middle and black lead to right and left.
2000k = 0
200k = 0
20k = 0
2000 = 001
200 = 00.8
Someone de-code that for me
black knight
Expert
Well i think it might be my stator. I tested the spark with a timing light and i got spark to plugs on all for. Tryed to start it and it sputered. pulled plugs and they where all wet. So i got fuel. Tested the three white wires again off the stator to the rectifier and got 0.00 omhs.
So I'm going with a shot stator.
My question is why can't i get it to start even with a booster pack and a new charge on the battery?
What is the stator holding back.Timing?
Any and all replies appreciated.
So I'm going with a shot stator.
My question is why can't i get it to start even with a booster pack and a new charge on the battery?
What is the stator holding back.Timing?
Any and all replies appreciated.
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I think its the stator that makes the power to create the spark. The battery just powers the FI and starter motor.
jkenosh
Expert
they do foul out the plugs pretty easy, if they are all wet maybe its that simple
