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Weight Savings

00-NUKE

00-NUKE

Expert
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
395
Location
Princeton, MN
I'm looking for ideas for inexpensive ways to cut weight from the exterior. I'm just trying to see what people have done and what works???
 

exterior weight loss is pretty expensive!!! chromemoly a-arms, swithing to fox floats, different skid, lighter track, tube frame, carbon fiber parts, take out the headlight. remove foam from panels... im sure there is more but thats off the top of my head, also the best way to loose weight is to take all of the crap that you know you dont "need" off the sled. i put need in quotes because the definition of need is a hell of a lot different from one person to the next... do a search, Ive seen some posts from members who have taken 50-100 lbs off there sleds... Ive been searching alot for ideas to take weight off. use that tool, it works very well
 
CHEAP weight loss!

Look what I found....... Stock battery weighs 16.4 lbs. I weighed it on my refrigerant scale. Braille makes a 12V Starter Battery with a little higher Cold Cranking Amps (CCR) than the stock YUASA YTX20L-BS battery makes. The best part is that it weighs 6.6 lbs and costs $147.95. That's what I call cheap weight loss. $15.10/lb Not Bad! I've attached the website that I found it on.

http://www.autoanything.com/electrical- ... 4A0A0.aspx
 
I've lost 45 pounds since last winter, now thats weight savings!

But I think the rear suspension is probably a good place to save a ton of weight. Its stupid heavy.

Switching to fox floats in the front would probably shave a few pounds also.
 
nuke there are better buys for batteries out there go to www.bikebatts.com and look up mbtz10s its $68 and weighs 7lbs, rlcofmn says he uses one and starts just fine on those -10 days up here in alaska
 
APEX 06 said:
Exhaust and aftermarket skid will get a lot off. You can fine them used for a good price, HayDays is the place to be.
Click to expand...

I will not be attending Hay Days after last year. Until the Sno Barons get their crap together, I'll find parts elsewhere. I'll give my buisness to the NSRA. Princeton's turn out was excellent this year and no one got turned away from them being over crowded.
 
To me the best money spent might be the undertunnel cooler. It was a U-shaped heat exchanger that allowed you to remove the radiator. To me this is a multi-benificial mod. It eliminates the radiator/fan, which doesn't do much and probably weighs a few pounds. Granted your adding another item but the difference is that it's at a much lower CG. This should help the handling of the sled as well. You should have much lower temps as I'm sure the tunnel cooler will be more efficient than the rad with little air flow. The major weight savings will be the elimination of the block of ice in the tunnel. Eliminating the majority or the ice in the tunnel could save you 50+ pounds, not to mention your suspension, hyfax, and tunnel will last longer. Best bang for the buck in my eyes.

As for the rear skid being too heavy, it needs to be reinforced more, not less. Te rear pivots are a joke, crack central. The front and rear arms seem to hold up though.
 
I have my nytro stripped and the weight savings will be published once finished. But a lot of extras like the exhaust panels gone now gone under tunnel removing steel reinforcing on tunnel supports and replacing with aluminum there are places to save weight on these sleds in many places without spending big bucks just think about what you are trying to achieve
 
LJ 452 said:
To me the best money spent might be the undertunnel cooler. It was a U-shaped heat exchanger that allowed you to remove the radiator. To me this is a multi-benificial mod. It eliminates the radiator/fan, which doesn't do much and probably weighs a few pounds. Granted your adding another item but the difference is that it's at a much lower CG. This should help the handling of the sled as well. You should have much lower temps as I'm sure the tunnel cooler will be more efficient than the rad with little air flow. The major weight savings will be the elimination of the block of ice in the tunnel. Eliminating the majority or the ice in the tunnel could save you 50+ pounds, not to mention your suspension, hyfax, and tunnel will last longer. Best bang for the buck in my eyes.

As for the rear skid being too heavy, it needs to be reinforced more, not less. Te rear pivots are a joke, crack central. The front and rear arms seem to hold up though.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't lighten the rear suspension, I would replace it with one that isn't super heavy. And in the process, you'd probably end up with a better performing suspension also. Maybe a suspension out of a ski doo or polaris. Or if you really want to save some weight, go to a mountain suspension with all Fox Floats...not sure how tough they are, but they are light.

Aftermarket suspensions are not exactly cheap tho.

And as far as Haydays goes this year, its gonna go fine. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to fix the problems they had last year.
 
Ahh, I understand what you meant now! Agree, better skids out there for what it weights. If off trail lightness is what your after probably the way to go. If you want light/durable that's going to get tougher.
 
LJ 452 said:
Ahh, I understand what you meant now! Agree, better skids out there for what it weights. If off trail lightness is what your after probably the way to go. If you want light/durable that's going to get tougher.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily light/durable, just lighter/durable. My overall goal is to remove weight from the nose. That's why I started with the battery. Even if I don't reduce the weight, I would like to reappropriate it further towards the back. I like the idea of removing the fan and radiator by putting in a heat exchanger under the tunnel. That might be more work than what it's worth though???
 
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