RX Warrior not running right

Guys, let me preface this by saying I have read every RX1 stumbling thread I could find to see if anything applied. I have an 05 Warrior with the modified airbox, 165 mains and 20 pilots, and CR10EK plugs. I was on a ride last year and had to tow a sled and I did at a pretty low speed. When I started it after shutting it down it was stumbling real bad and wouldn't go to WOT. It was the last ride of the year and I put it away. This fall I cleaned the carbs and put the stock plugs back in it. Ran perfect so I put the CR10EK plugs back in and it ran fine again. Went on my first trip last weekend and it ran fine for about 75 miles and started stumbling again on low throttle but seemed like it would clear up at WOT although down on RPM and only pulled 9K. it progressively got worse until it would barely run, but idles fine. Got it home and pulled the plugs and all were brown. I cleaned all 4 coils and re dielectric greased them. No change. Cleaned the carbs again, no change. Put the stock plugs back in and no change. I'm getting ready to go back up to the UP this coming weekend and could really use some help. The only thing I noticed is that 2 of the coils do not snap tight and are easily removed from the plugs. I did pull the coil wires off while it was idling and was able to notice that all 4 coils made the idle bad so it seems that all the coils are working at idle at least. Anyone have any more suggestions?

Bill

I forgot to mention that at least some of the gas in the tank is from last year. Would fuel filters in the tank be a next logical step along with draining the gas and getting fresh fuel? It is probably only 25% old fuel.

Checked the TPS resistance today as well, it went from about .9K at idle to 4.6K at WOT. The manual calls for 0 - 4K, would this cause my problem? I would think that if it wasn't getting to 4K at WOT then it would maybe cause this, but I would think it is pulling full timing. On to the next step...

i would check the filters as they fall apart over time. mine where rubbed through when i did them in 2010 but they where not bad enough to fall apart like has happened to others.

Checked primary and secondary coil resistance in all 4 coils and all are in spec. I also put the carbs back to stock as well as a stock airbox back on, and no change, still stumbles thru the 4-6K range. Bypassed TORS no change. Going to try new plugs and tank filters next. Then maybe try swapping in a good CDI and coils off a buddy's sled.

I think the lack of responses is because this appears to be a new problem. I don't remember reading anything like this. My 05 had a bout last year where it wouldn't pull over 9k when I first got it. It idled fine, just wouldn't pull the R's. I thought to myself, what a dog after coming off an LTX. I cleaned the carbs, new plugs, cleaned the coils, checked fuel filters and cleaned my clutches. I took it out in a field to try it again and the same thing. As I turned around and got on it again she all of a sudden hit 11k and pulled like a freight train. The condition has never reared its ugly head again. I really have no idea what the issue really was.....

have you sync'ed your carbs?? VERY important IMO. Especially after removing/cleaning your carbs (Twice)

No i have not synced the carbs. Unsync'ed carbs would hold rpm and make the motor stumble and backfire and hold 6K rpm's for 3/4 throttle? even though it ran perfect before (for 75 miles at least...)?

Put in new plugs gapped to .030, still stumbles. Checked the stator and pickup coil resistance and both were normal, cleaned both plugs, no change...

Pulled airbox and verified all 4 slides are opening under throttle, saw fuel squirting from all 4 carbs with short throttle blips.

I'm leaning toward something ignition related... not sure what though.

Well, to be completely honest with you... I'm not 100% sure as I have never experienced your symptoms exactly as you describe, so therefore, i have never troubleshoot your symptoms, and made a repair. I spent a few minutes and did some searching for you, and here is how others have described their symptoms, and found to be out of sync carbs.

---- I noticed my out of sync condition most severely at idle...popping, unsteady idle, bogging off the line, generally running like crap.

--- One symptom would be idle not staying the same, it would wander up and down or not drop back quickly after blipping the throttle.

--- Mine started with gas mileage going down some, an uneven idle, then backfiring at deceleration.

--- Another symptom I noticed was noise. Because the power balance is off, at idle the engine shounds like the connecting rods are knocking. As the revs go up the engine can exhibit some nasty vibrations

--- The main symptom is poor throttle response off idle. Also (as mentioned)--irratic idle / racing or stalling.


That's just a few that I found... At any rate, another thing... When you cleaned your carbs, I'll assume you removed the top covers of the carbs..... Did you make sure the little tiny round rubber o rings were properly in place?? I have read that if they (or even one) is missing, it could cause loss of RPM... or out or place couple be causing a leak??
What about the diaphragm?? are you 100% certain that they went back in place 100%?? It is very easy, somewhat common (from what i have read) to pinch a small piece under the cap...

Anyhow, you could very well be correct, could b an ignition issue... What i can tell u is badly out of sync carbs, can cause some pretty funky stuff to happen.. This past season, second start up, I thought for sure i had a bad plug... did my usual checks, and stuff, new plugs etc. and it ended up being my #2 & 3 were WAY off...

Have you noticed any arcing going on around your coils?? Maybe a night, start it up and open the hood.. see if there is any arching going on around your coils & your engine... Had that problem twice now, and had very similar symptoms....

Yes all 4 orings were in place when I put the carbs back to stock jetting. It sled idles perfectly and is steady in rpm, the problem happens right after engagement at around 4k rpm to 6K rpm.

I did pull the airbox and verified all 4 slides were operating the same under throttle (track spinning off the ground)

I did think arcing coils as well and even cleaned the end boot and inside where the coil contacts the plug applied dielectric grease on the boot. Should I be filling the boot with dielectric grease?

SMOKNZ said:

Yes all 4 orings were in place when I put the carbs back to stock jetting. It sled idles perfectly and is steady in rpm, the problem happens right after engagement at around 4k rpm to 6K rpm.

I did pull the airbox and verified all 4 slides were operating the same under throttle (track spinning off the ground)

I did think arcing coils as well and even cleaned the end boot and inside where the coil contacts the plug applied dielectric grease on the boot. Should I be filling the boot with dielectric grease?

Click to expand...

What i do, is pull the rubber boot off the end, take the 4 of them inside and clean them with soapy warm water. Spray a good amount of brake cleaner into the end of the coil... (careful it doesn't come back out and spray u in the face), wipe down the exterior with a rag (sprayed with cleaner), then put a "pee" size amount of dielectric, into the tip, put boot back on, put about 2x the size of a pee onto the tip of my pinkey, and wipe it inside the boot...

Perhaps, It isn't the carbs, but i would absolutely still sync them just to make sure.. U can very easily build your own synchronizer for about $30 or so.... and it is truely a piece of cake and does make a very big difference ... here is the guage set I made about a month back... along side of my fluid meter I built... If your interested, I can make up a parts list for you..







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Sweet setup Grashoper. Also very detailed analysis of potential problems.
I don't suppose you have a short lesson in carb syncing to go with the awesome photos?

Since it ran well for 75 miles should we be looking for a problem as the fuel tank gets low- like a cracked fuel line inside that only draws air when exposed? It might idle okay but lose power when you demand more fuel. Have you had a full tank since you have been doing all of these other checks?

YammyRX1 said:

Since it ran well for 75 miles should we be looking for a problem as the fuel tank gets low- like a cracked fuel line inside that only draws air when exposed? It might idle okay but lose power when you demand more fuel. Have you had a full tank since you have been doing all of these other checks?

Click to expand...

X2 on that one...

KBrian said:

Sweet setup Grashoper. Also very detailed analysis of potential problems.
I don't suppose you have a short lesson in carb syncing to go with the awesome photos?

Click to expand...

I could, but I much prefer to hand u off to the origin of where I learned from a few years ago. This guys entire log/journal/postings are fantastic. here is a link to the beginning of his synchronizing 'lesson' .. Only difference is, is he is using a fancier version of what I built. When I built mine, I made kind of a mixed breed from several different ones that others have built. What I can tell you, is if your sync is way off, like mine was, you can start the entire procedure by screwing your sync screws all the way in until lightly seated, and unscrew 2 complete turns, not 1/2 turns) and go from there...If you have any questions, feel free to ask... I'm by no means have a ton of experience, but I'm willing to share my own experiences any time... No two situations are the same.. My carbs seemed completely impossible to sync, and at one point I started to sweat bullets cuz it got REALLY bad and thought I totally messed things up until I started from scratch @ two turns on the screws....

Carb Sync lesson:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=430096#430096