accobra66
Veteran
2011 Apex XTX.
How much do I back off the chain case bolt once I hit the tight spot?
How much do I back off the chain case bolt once I hit the tight spot?
1/4 turn
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
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cannondale27 said:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX2 'Ol standard... finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just make sure you turn the secondary back so that the slack is on the adjuster/tensioner side before you turn the adjuster bolt in.
Daranello
Suspended
ranger1 said:
wow, never done that
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have always done this because if you leave the slack in the chain on the opposite side of the adjuster bolt , there is a good chance that when you finger tighten the adjuster bolt you will not get all the slack out of the chain, therefore, the chain may not be properly tensioned, could be loose.Daranello said:
MarkRTX
Expert
Good point I never did this either this is why this site ROCKS!!!!!!!
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
MarkRTX said:
Been doing it this way for years, and if I correct, it is written in your manual too?
Great info Ranger.
4strokeluvr111
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ranger1 said:
Please clarify "turn the 2ndary back".....do you mean turn the 2ndary like the sled is in reverse? I too have this annoying clunk at times.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What I mean is when you are facing the secondary, rotate it by hand (counter clockwise) so that it puts the slack from the chain on the tensioner side when adjusting the chain tension.4strokeluvr111 said:
4strokeluvr111
Please stay between the markers!
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ranger1 said:
Got it...thanks!
youngdman
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wow I never thought of that. I already did mine and seems to be fine but next time I will do it that way. Thanks for the info.
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The above info. is bang on, but I backoff 2 flats =1/3 turn. Just easier to keep track of and is close enough. Some guys have a grip that can almost strip the threads and others can hardly turn a loose bolt.
I also mark the bolt, top flat with paint or something when new. That way you can keep track of wear as time goes on.
When a sled is new normally get a bit of wear the 1st while and then I pretty much have zero wear after that if using a good syn. oil.
I also mark the bolt, top flat with paint or something when new. That way you can keep track of wear as time goes on.
When a sled is new normally get a bit of wear the 1st while and then I pretty much have zero wear after that if using a good syn. oil.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Oh ya, forgot to mention to put the parking brake on while rotating the secondary counter clockwise so that the slack "STAYS" on the adjuster side!!! lol
copo427ss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I just turn the brake rotor forward while tightening the bolt. We have always backed off a half turn. On ski doo we back off til the next available hole to put the pin back through. Good idea in marking a flat on the bolt.
