Settled like described below, excellent results are achived, tested since more than 2,000 miles on lot of different conditions by different drivers, especialy bad trails. Never thought it would be like that when I drove the first 500 miles with the original settings. Now, to my surprise, it rides a lot better than my rx monoshock(lot better on stutter bumps, less bottoming, more secure at high speed when a big one's coming). In fact, this suspension-sled package may very well be one of the best Yamaha's secret, and it does not received the praise it should. One of the reason is the anti bottoming that should never be instaled at the factory.
First, REMOVE the anti bottoming stoppers on the side rails. These things make kick backs and you're not using all the travel of the suspension with them.
Second, tighten the preload of the front shock pring close to the maximum
(see owner manual)
Third, adjust the coupling rods to the maximum transfer
Finaly, put the torsion springs blocks to your liking, wich should probably be medium.
First, REMOVE the anti bottoming stoppers on the side rails. These things make kick backs and you're not using all the travel of the suspension with them.
Second, tighten the preload of the front shock pring close to the maximum
(see owner manual)
Third, adjust the coupling rods to the maximum transfer
Finaly, put the torsion springs blocks to your liking, wich should probably be medium.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
How much do you weigh, and how aggressively do you ride?
What type of trails do you ride on? All size bumps?
Also, what type (how much) ski lift are you getting coming out of corners under hard acceleration?
What type of trails do you ride on? All size bumps?
Also, what type (how much) ski lift are you getting coming out of corners under hard acceleration?
My weight is 195 lbs undressed. I'd say that my riding is the like 300 miles + snowmobiler a day; want to sustain good speed in bad trails. I am using the power available of the machine, including my RX-1. But I hate to be shaken by stutter bumps and receive a hit when bottoming out.
In the different settings I tried, the one with the least preload on the front shock removed the ski lift. I had then to put the torsion spring blocks to the hardest position because it bottomed to much. Settled like that, it was like a roadster, ski stayed flat but no comfort.
With the above final settings, maximum confort is achived, it is very easy and relaxing to drive but there is ski lift when accelerating in the corners.
This is a compromise I am willing to accept considering the level of confort achived. The little speed lost in some corners is more than offset by the higher speed sustained in trails with stutter bumps or moguls in the field.
In the different settings I tried, the one with the least preload on the front shock removed the ski lift. I had then to put the torsion spring blocks to the hardest position because it bottomed to much. Settled like that, it was like a roadster, ski stayed flat but no comfort.
With the above final settings, maximum confort is achived, it is very easy and relaxing to drive but there is ski lift when accelerating in the corners.
This is a compromise I am willing to accept considering the level of confort achived. The little speed lost in some corners is more than offset by the higher speed sustained in trails with stutter bumps or moguls in the field.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
WOW.....you weren't kidding about these settings!!!
Yesterday I removed my ant-bottoming stoppers, and dialed two more turns of transfer into the rods from the stock setting. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
Kick back has virtually disappeared! I can't believe how fast I can go through a section of large bumps now in comfort and controll. I can now feel the suspension stroking, and studder bumps have been eliminated.
The only down fall I noticed was it will bottom out hard from extreme hits. I was going down a steep hill in a field, and there was an abrupt ditch/groove at the bottom before the hill stared going back up. I hit it hard and could hear/feel the suspension take a pretty good hit. But again this was an extreme situation. I'm going to tighten the spring pre-load on the front track shock to see if this helps prevent those type of hits. Its presently in the stock position.
Other than that I was absolutely amazed at the results of these changes. I thought it rode good before, but its now a completely diffent ride.
If I think I'm getting to much inside ski lift after tightening the front track shock spring pre-load, I'll try loosening the pre-load of the springs on the ski shocks.
Thanks for the advise!
Yesterday I removed my ant-bottoming stoppers, and dialed two more turns of transfer into the rods from the stock setting. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
Kick back has virtually disappeared! I can't believe how fast I can go through a section of large bumps now in comfort and controll. I can now feel the suspension stroking, and studder bumps have been eliminated.
The only down fall I noticed was it will bottom out hard from extreme hits. I was going down a steep hill in a field, and there was an abrupt ditch/groove at the bottom before the hill stared going back up. I hit it hard and could hear/feel the suspension take a pretty good hit. But again this was an extreme situation. I'm going to tighten the spring pre-load on the front track shock to see if this helps prevent those type of hits. Its presently in the stock position.
Other than that I was absolutely amazed at the results of these changes. I thought it rode good before, but its now a completely diffent ride.
If I think I'm getting to much inside ski lift after tightening the front track shock spring pre-load, I'll try loosening the pre-load of the springs on the ski shocks.
Thanks for the advise!
Tightening the spring preload on the front track shock will help, no doubt. You will feel that you have a lot more suspension under your seat! Don't overtight the spring, follow instructions in your owner manual, it is, if I remember well, a matter of a quarter of an inch.
Dial like that, bottoming will be very reasonable, like it should be using all the suspension travel. But it will far less than other ones, including m-10, cats and mono shock...
Dial like that, bottoming will be very reasonable, like it should be using all the suspension travel. But it will far less than other ones, including m-10, cats and mono shock...
