subaru2006
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Quick write up on adding chain case oil. Soon as I get time Ill be doing a write up on oil changes unless someone beats me to it.
Persons needed: 1
Difficulty: 1-10 (2)
Approximate time required: 30 minutes
Tools required: Both torx wrenches required are found in the stock tool bag.
Fluid Total: 12FL OZ. Add until site glass is between 1/4 and 1/2.
First thing is to remove both side panels. This will make life easier during this procedure. On the clutch side there is a thumb screw just above the pin. This needs to be removed.
Next we will want to remove the seat. Once the bolt on the rear of the seat is out lift the rear of the seat up and away from the front.
Next we need to remove the panel that lays across infront of the seat. Undo the fastners on each side. When those are undone lift near the top and the panel comes out.
At the chain case side you should now be able to access the screws and connections needed to remove the actuator.
The opening this creates is where you fill chain case oil.
The actuator motor. These screws are torqued to 36 IN LBS. and have blue loctite.
The actuator extension.
Just a few notes on this, for the procedure to wrap things up just follow the removal in reverse. Remember extension goes in first. If needed you can rotate the extension back and forth a little to help line the teeth up. Also make sure you don't pinch any wires that go to and from the actuator motor. Specially the one that comes directly out of the case near the top of the actuator motor. Here is the tricky part. Hopefully someone can confirm this but some say you need to preload this actuator motor when reinstalling it. Basically lining the teeth up between the actuator motor and the extension by placing the actuator motor at the 1 olcock positions and moving it to the 12 oclock position. Ive spoke with a few different yamaha and arctic cat dealers and none have confirmed or denied this. They both side if the teeth fit and the screws line up your good, if not you will want to move the actuator motor to line the screw holes up. There is some tension when you have to do that. They also said the system will self adjust to were it needs to be.
Right out of the service bulletin from arctic cat they just say make sure all teeth are aligned correctly.
1. Turn key to on position and placed the sled in reverse and forward 3 times.( When I did that I didn't hear the actuator doing anything, so I don't think it gets power until the sled is fired up.)
2. Next to start the sled and run the sled in reverse for 20 seconds on a stand.
If anyone has anything to add or correct to this please make a post here and ill add it. Hopefully this will help anyone that needs it.
Subaru2006
Persons needed: 1
Difficulty: 1-10 (2)
Approximate time required: 30 minutes
Tools required: Both torx wrenches required are found in the stock tool bag.
Fluid Total: 12FL OZ. Add until site glass is between 1/4 and 1/2.
First thing is to remove both side panels. This will make life easier during this procedure. On the clutch side there is a thumb screw just above the pin. This needs to be removed.
Next we will want to remove the seat. Once the bolt on the rear of the seat is out lift the rear of the seat up and away from the front.
Next we need to remove the panel that lays across infront of the seat. Undo the fastners on each side. When those are undone lift near the top and the panel comes out.
At the chain case side you should now be able to access the screws and connections needed to remove the actuator.
The opening this creates is where you fill chain case oil.
The actuator motor. These screws are torqued to 36 IN LBS. and have blue loctite.
The actuator extension.
Just a few notes on this, for the procedure to wrap things up just follow the removal in reverse. Remember extension goes in first. If needed you can rotate the extension back and forth a little to help line the teeth up. Also make sure you don't pinch any wires that go to and from the actuator motor. Specially the one that comes directly out of the case near the top of the actuator motor. Here is the tricky part. Hopefully someone can confirm this but some say you need to preload this actuator motor when reinstalling it. Basically lining the teeth up between the actuator motor and the extension by placing the actuator motor at the 1 olcock positions and moving it to the 12 oclock position. Ive spoke with a few different yamaha and arctic cat dealers and none have confirmed or denied this. They both side if the teeth fit and the screws line up your good, if not you will want to move the actuator motor to line the screw holes up. There is some tension when you have to do that. They also said the system will self adjust to were it needs to be.
Right out of the service bulletin from arctic cat they just say make sure all teeth are aligned correctly.
1. Turn key to on position and placed the sled in reverse and forward 3 times.( When I did that I didn't hear the actuator doing anything, so I don't think it gets power until the sled is fired up.)
2. Next to start the sled and run the sled in reverse for 20 seconds on a stand.
If anyone has anything to add or correct to this please make a post here and ill add it. Hopefully this will help anyone that needs it.
Subaru2006
Nice job I almost understanf it now 
MrSled this needs to be a sticky!!!!
MrSled this needs to be a sticky!!!!
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Yamadog said:Nice job I almost understanf it now
MrSled this needs to be a sticky!!!!
I added it to the facts sticks.
great work!
You da man 
Thanks for posting, For me it is discouraging to see it take 30 freaking minutes to do something that takes less than 5 on most sleds. For me I'd rather the Viper be offered with a lever for reverse. Lighter and simpler and I could check and add oil pretty easily on both my Vector and Nytro.
subaru2006 said:
Nice write up.
The procedure quoted above is correct. If you just stick the gear and motor in and it's not in the correct spot, and don't do the above, you will hear some awful grinding sounds!
Awesome! Great job and thanks for the help. You too Yamahas!
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Great job!!
rough rider
Expert
good info, but where is the drain plug located
sk-rx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
There is no drain plug, to me that's where it gets a little tricky. Need to either remove the cover, crack it a bit and let fluid out, or find some type of suction device that can fit down inside the chain case. Not sue which is the preferred approach.
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yamahas said:Yamadog said:Nice job I almost understanf it now
MrSled this needs to be a sticky!!!!
I added it to the facts sticks.
great work!
Great job bud
Also great write-up subaru2006!!
TestMaster
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Great job I like the little explanations that improve and clarify the manual. You've made the process easy for al of us.
Thanks!
Thanks!
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Great write up, but you do not need to remove the seat. You can pull the right side panel off and pull the black panel back far enough to remove reverse actuator.
planner
Extreme
Any reason not to use a small engine oil extractor and pump the old oil out of both the chain case and oil tank. Seems it would be lot easier, quicker and no mess.
gvessey
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I took the reverse actuator out and was able to get a pella engine oil extractor in the back of the gear case and pump all the old fluid out, it was a lot less messy. I still can't get an answer on the reverse actuator, if it has to be preloaded or not when I took it off it definetly was but going back in seems like it takes a lot of pressure to preload it.
